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Lares 11033 PS gear issues ?

417guy

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Well, I pulled the trigger…had a 5% off code at Rockauto.com. The Description of the Lares 11033 was NEW !, and “ firm feel” !!! Before I ordered, I called the Lares customer service #, the guy was nice, helpful, confirmed it was new, not rebuilt. Said the “ firm feel” was to give it better road feel. Didn’t/would not say how that was accomplished !
They listed an 11043, which was the same, but “fast ratio”. It was out of stock until late March.
So based on that info, and the fact I really can’t spend $1000 for a Bergman Borgeson unit (including shipping), I got the Lares 11033. $359.59 delivered to me in 4 days by FedEx !

I opened it up and it is similar to my oe roadrunner box, but the inlet and outlet for fluid are in a slightly different spot, and it does not have what I’ll call the “centering valve “ the oe has on top with the pressure and return fittings.
I decided to do this work myself with the help of a buddy, but it will be a challenge because of the hooker headers.
I guess what I’m curious about is has anyone had any good or bad experience with this steering gear, or others from Lares ? Would like to hear others input. Oh, and Firm Feel out west is 2 months out plus transit time and costs, that also swayed me to this Lares product. (Just wish it looked more like my oe gear)
Thanks for reading this mini novel, as always appreciate others experiences.
 
I imagine "firm fell" is just less clearance between the gear teeth.
 
When they say "firm feel" all they're doing is taking out steering slack at the wheel. If you had been able to cruise down the highway and move your wheel an inch or so without the car swaying all they're doing is tightening the gear clearance to get rid of that.
 
When they say "firm feel" all they're doing is taking out steering slack at the wheel. If you had been able to cruise down the highway and move your wheel an inch or so without the car swaying all they're doing is tightening the gear clearance to get rid of that.
It has less power steering assist at highway speeds.
They don't just tighten the lash more.

Pictures would be good here.
The drivers side header (and starter) will need to be removed.
You will likely need to remove the motor mount bolt on that side and jack the engine up a bit on the drivers side to faciliate removing the header.
Note that the roll pin to remove the coupler from the box comes out more easily in one direction so look closely before you try and punch it out.
You will need to loosen the column and pull it back from inside.
Plan on some time for this with headers it's not the easiest of tasks.

Note too that you should replace your pressure hose if it's original and flush the box/line with clear fluid before connecting the new box.
 
It can be done without removing the header and is easier than you would think
Lift the car up on Jackstands
Support the engine weight with another jack and a block of wood
separate the upper ball joint from the spindle.
remove the top of the shocks
remove the sway bar link ends
Drop the K frame out the bottom
change the steering gear box
Re-Install in reverse order

I left out some steps like disconnecting the steering column, or pulling the pitman arm, because you will do them either way you go

We found it much easier than removing the headers especially if you still have factory style heads with wet bolt holes
 
When they say "firm feel" all they're doing is taking out steering slack at the wheel. If you had been able to cruise down the highway and move your wheel an inch or so without the car swaying all they're doing is tightening the gear clearance to get rid of that.
That and don't they do something more to get rid of the original 'steer with your little finger' feel that they had when new? I remember how easy it was to spin the wheel on them back than. I can see getting rid of the slack but doing something about reducing the ease of turning would be another imo. Even the new stuff has that firm feeling now a days. There's no way I can spin the steering wheel in my newer iron using just one finger unless I want to break it....
 
It has less power steering assist at highway speeds.
They don't just tighten the lash more.

Pictures would be good here.
The drivers side header (and starter) will need to be removed.
You will likely need to remove the motor mount bolt on that side and jack the engine up a bit on the drivers side to faciliate removing the header.
Note that the roll pin to remove the coupler from the box comes out more easily in one direction so look closely before you try and punch it out.
You will need to loosen the column and pull it back from inside.
Plan on some time for this with headers it's not the easiest of tasks.

Note too that you should replace your pressure hose if it's original and flush the box/line with clear fluid before connecting the new box.

Awhile back I added shims to the pressure relief valve in the Saginaw pump, and I could tell a difference in how much effort it took to steer after that. But for quite some time I’ve noticed play in the wheel. I can move the steering wheel about 3-4” at the rim before any resistance or movement of the pitman. 2 different alignment shops have told me it has too much play. The car has qa1 upper control arms, bilstein shocks, solid tie rod sleeves and 11/16 tie rod ends. About 3-4 degrees caster and 1-2 degree negative camber . And welded subframes and torque boxes. It drives good except for the sloppy steering. I’m on a budget now, trying to buy what I can afford and do myself if possible.
 
You should check the coupler as well.
Just hold the coupler and grab the steering shaft with the other hand and see if there is movement within the coupler.
 
When you do fire it up keep your hands off the wheel in case it decides to spin itself to full turn. If you mess with the valve on top especially, since these can require some adjustment to keep the wheel centered.
 
When you do fire it up keep your hands off the wheel in case it decides to spin itself to full turn. If you mess with the valve on top especially, since these can require some adjustment to keep the wheel centered.

I just added pics from the Rockauto site of the 11033 steering gear. It does not have the valve on top to center the steering wheel. I don’t believe the Borgeson box has the valve, either. Different design from the oe !!

D627A892-B31C-488F-9AE3-A8424064B533.jpeg 2C8284E1-5173-4543-B335-063A040D7D12.jpeg
 
Ok, without boring ya'll to death, a well built box achieves better road feel through stiffer reaction shaft springs in the box, which are actually more like Belleville springs. Play between the gears is an adjustment. That's how Mopar did it with the police boxes. Anyone with a FSM can reduce the lash between the sector shaft and worm gear, it adjusts similarly in power and manual boxes. BTW - you CAN ruin a box is the gear mesh is too tight.
 
What vehicle are you putting this box into?

my 68 roadrunner. It’s In my profile pic. had it since 98. Did most of work 20 years ago myself, except paint, body, exhaust. Last few years had other shops do a few things, but always came back a little disappointed. I’m retired now, and have been doing things myself again.
 
I just added pics from the Rockauto site of the 11033 steering gear. It does not have the valve on top to center the steering wheel. I don’t believe the Borgeson box has the valve, either. Different design from the oe !!

View attachment 1225856 View attachment 1225857

I really appreciate all the input from everyone, but my main question concerns anyones experience with the Lares 11033 steering gear. I’m having concerns about all the work to put it in and issues since it’s not like the original one. I’m on the fence to go ahead or send it back and get the original rebuilt by Firm Feel or Steer n Gear. I think a Borgeson is off the table because of cost. Thanks again for all the input !
 
I have not had any experience with the lares one you posted. It definitely looks different than the normal one that came on these cars. Maybe call their hotline number and speak with someone about it and see what they say?
 
I would recommend Steer and Gear.
I've put in two and they work well right out of the box.
If you are not in a hurry they can rebuild yours and ship it back to you.
They can set up the "firmness" as you request. ( One of three levels I think)
 
I would recommend Steer and Gear.
I've put in two and they work well right out of the box.
If you are not in a hurry they can rebuild yours and ship it back to you.
They can set up the "firmness" as you request. ( One of three levels I think)
They are much closer to me for freight costs the Firm Feel way out west ! Thanks for the recommendation!
 
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