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Leaf spring wind up


Local time
11:01 AM
Sep 11, 2021
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Sarasota Florida
Hello All. I recently heard a discussion regarding adding leaf spring clamps to the front part of the leaf spring to control the wind up, and help keep the rear wheels planted. This is an inexpensive way to go if it works? I ran a pinion snubber on my Duster and it would bang the underside when passengers were in the back seat and on rough roads. But of course when on the track, it worked perfectly. This is my first B body (69 RR 440 six pac) that is going to be road driven for the most part so my thought is a pinion snubber is overkill, however I want to limit the axle wind up when I DO romp on it to keep the u-joints and the drive train happy. I have very little tire slip now so I imagine the rear axle is arcing up quite a bit and I want to limit that.
Any and all thoughts would be appreciated !!!
My experience with numerous leaf spring combinations is you just need to try a few locations. I used SS hose clamps to figure things out. On my drag cars I quit using the snubber. For a street ride I'd keep it. I used flat stock & bolted on the rear halve to control the spring reaction. You can move them around to get what you want.
My '71 Charger has an extra spring leaf on each side that goes from the front eyelet to just past the second spring. It seems to help with axle windup.
It stiffens the spring/suspension, but I also have larger front torsen bars and front/rear swaybars. The car still has the adjustable pinion snubber too.
On the pinion snubber I believe I cut one adjustment out on each side so it could be lowered (been 30 some years ago when I did that.)
You can make some out of 1" or so wide pieces of steel, 1/4" thick with one bolt on each side. You can experiment with how many clamps and how many sections you clamp. It makes a difference especially with stock/HD springs and good torque.
i've used clamps from time to time. pros and cons to everything. big question is what springs are you using now?
I've had good luck with those clamps. I prefer adjustable pinion snubbers too if that matters.
Just an FYI.... Snubbers are really for drag cars only, and probably (definately) not the best solution there either. A snubber should just touch the floor pan with that car loaded with fuel and driver, ready to hit the strip. Of course, then once its done its job at the second you launch, the rear should rise anyway and the snubber no longer comes into play. So.... looking towards any street use, there is no way to properly set up a snubber on a car that includes passengers in any way. Just my two cents, of course.
THANK YOU everyone!!!!
I need to find out what I have like Letot said. I prefer to stay away from the snubber if I can. I think I will mount this magnetic camera I bought for a temporary backup camera and observe what is actually going on and go from there.
It's going to be a while but I will post my results when I figure it all out.
I have used and recommended the use of half leaves above the top leaf made of spring steel for street cars.
A spring maker has to do them and you clamp every leaf on the front of the spring.
It does stiffen the spring slightly but it does virtually eliminate spring wrap and severe pinion angle changes under acceleration.
The best part is no adjustments are required - just get in and drive.
Anything you do to increase traction in these old dogs will stiffen the ride; it' a function of their design.
The key thing is, what you really want and how much harshness of ride you can withstand.
For me, SS springs or even Cal-Tracs on the street aren't a bad deal but a lot of guys hate them for something that gets driven around.
It really comes back to trial-and-error. Clamping the front segments is a good (cheap!) way to start.
With the forces you're experiencing
you are also hammering your pinion
bearings. Those forces are trying to
puke everything out the back of your
diff with the frequency of the spring
wrap. Might be a good idea to
install a girdle to reinforce the
bearings. It sounds like you like to
get on it once in a while !
The idea is to have the rear of the spring flexible enough to allow it to lift. While the front half of the spring stiff enough to prevent wrap up. Does it hook without wheel hop? If so no more work needed. I have 2 street style hot rods. #1; Small block Challenger 4 speed. Totally stock 340 ralley suspension except a tall pinion snubber. Zero wheel hop with the snubber. Slicks or on the street. Remove the snubber it hops. 12.50@110. #2; Small block supercharged Volare RR. Stock rear main leafs. 68 Hemi GTX spring pacs added to them. Leaves turned backwards to make the front very stiff. Rear of the spring pac is very soft. No snubber. 11.0@122 in street trim. Zero wheel hop. low 1.5x 60ft