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Leaking TRW/THOMPSON ps pump

1963JAM

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Good morning FBBO any suggestions on pump repair. Cleaned it last night to locate leak.
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Could be the O-ring between the canister and the pump assembly itself. It looks wet/damp around the bottom area where they meet. If you take it apart to repair that, throw a new o-ring in the back groove of the pump where the bolt goes into the canister/housing as well. They both can leak and cause you grief. I fought that big O-ring on the front for quite some time on my Charger and finally up'd the o-ring one size thickness and sealed her up good. It had some silicone on it from a previous owner tryin to seal it and once cleaned up and fixed, hasn't leaked since.
 
If you change outer o-ring clean that reservoir can of rust where it seals. Does it have the large return line. Around 5/8"?
 
Looks like ATF in there which isn’t that good. Seems to be more prone to leaking and making noise. I like to use PS fluid.

After you fix the pump and install it cap off the return pipe. Then fill the pump with PS fluid. Then put on a longer return hose from the box to a catch can, disable the ignition and crank the starter to pump out the fluid in the steering box until it gets clear.
 
Had a similar leak in my trw pump for decades. After complete disassembly and cleaning, and removal of the large o-ring, I filled the o-ring groove with plenty of ultra black rtv, along with where the reservoir seals to the pump on the back bracket bolt. Let it completely dry, trimmed cured excess where the body meets the pump with a new blade, painted everything after that, let it dry and haven't had a drop leak in 2 1/2 years.
 
Looks like ATF in there which isn’t that good. Seems to be more prone to leaking and making noise. I like to use PS fluid.

After you fix the pump and install it cap off the return pipe. Then fill the pump with PS fluid. Then put on a longer return hose from the box to a catch can, disable the ignition and crank the starter to pump out the fluid in the steering box until it gets clear.
I thought ATF is what you’re supposed to use. Any particular PS fluid?
 
Had a similar leak in my trw pump for decades. After complete disassembly and cleaning, and removal of the large o-ring, I filled the o-ring groove with plenty of ultra black rtv, along with where the reservoir seals to the pump on the back bracket bolt. Let it completely dry, trimmed cured excess where the body meets the pump with a new blade, painted everything after that, let it dry and haven't had a drop leak in 2 1/2 years.
Where are the fasteners to fasten the cast section with pulley to the reservoir can?
 
I’m like the Dutch boy chasing leaks this morning. I’m looking for old posts on what works best for leaky factory valve covers. Rubber, cork and what to seal it with?
 
The bolts on the back hold the can onto the pump. There is a gasket inside between the pump and the can. Hold it in place with a small daub of sealer when going back together.

Take pump off the car, remove the brackets. Look on the back for any more bolts that didn’t go through the bracket. Then the can slides off the cast pump. It’s may be stuck and you need to pry. Be careful to move it off evenly not crooked so you don’t bend the can.

Since you have the return on the top you don’t need to plug it to flush the box.

I use this NAPA PS fluid. I have many cars so I get it in a gallon jug.

View attachment 1196225 17E629DF-CF1A-43BF-B458-51538C93C8E9.png BE750C07-038F-4B55-8458-03C006357B6E.jpeg
 
The bolts on the back hold the can onto the pump. There is a gasket inside between the pump and the can. Hold it in place with a small daub of sealer when going back together.

Take pump off the car, remove the brackets. Look on the back for any more bolts that didn’t go through the bracket. Then the can slides off the cast pump. It’s may be stuck and you need to pry. Be careful to move it off evenly not crooked so you don’t bend the can.

Since you have the return on the top you don’t need to plug it to flush the box.

I use this NAPA PS fluid. I have many cars so I get it in a gallon jug.

View attachment 1196225 View attachment 1196226 View attachment 1196227
Thank you R413. Glad I don’t have to remove the pulley or get deeper into more seal replacements. Where did you get the seal between the can and the cast iron cover?
 
Could be the O-ring between the canister and the pump assembly itself. It looks wet/damp around the bottom area where they meet. If you take it apart to repair that, throw a new o-ring in the back groove of the pump where the bolt goes into the canister/housing as well. They both can leak and cause you grief. I fought that big O-ring on the front for quite some time on my Charger and finally up'd the o-ring one size thickness and sealed her up good. It had some silicone on it from a previous owner tryin to seal it and once cleaned up and fixed, hasn't leaked since.
Do you find these O-rings at a hardware store, Tractor Supply, some place like that?
 
The bolts on the back hold the can onto the pump. There is a gasket inside between the pump and the can. Hold it in place with a small daub of sealer when going back together.

Take pump off the car, remove the brackets. Look on the back for any more bolts that didn’t go through the bracket. Then the can slides off the cast pump. It’s may be stuck and you need to pry. Be careful to move it off evenly not crooked so you don’t bend the can.

Since you have the return on the top you don’t need to plug it to flush the box.

I use this NAPA PS fluid. I have many cars so I get it in a gallon jug.

View attachment 1196225 View attachment 1196226 View attachment 1196227
 
Do you find these O-rings at a hardware store, Tractor Supply, some place like that?
If you decide to use the ultra black you can eliminate the o rings.
If, however you insist on using them I have a new kit that I didn't need since the rtv did the trick. I can send it to you no charge.
 
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If you need a return hose GATES 10RLA 200psi 5/8".
 
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Do you find these O-rings at a hardware store, Tractor Supply, some place like that?

my dad works at an o-ring manufacturing and distribution plant so I got mine there.
 
I’ve purchased reseal kits from Firm Feel Steering I believe ( I get them and Steer and Gear confused sometimes). Seems like once those cans start to leak and they’ve been taken apart, it’s tough to get them to seal up tight again. So a little RTV on the o-ring won’t hurt.
 
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