Let the Restoration Begin, NOOB questions...

[JimKueneman]

I got my '68 Coronet 500 home tonight, with a little drama. The J hooks/chains on the flat bed crumpled the gas tank and now I have a varnish (I mean gas) leak. The car has not been driven since 1984 so that gas is _really_ old. This may have been a good thing so I can get a new tank from the towing company so here come the questions:

This car has not been driven since '84 and has been in storage. Here is the short list of things I want to do before even thinking about putting it on the road:

• New Tank
• New rubber fuel lines
• New rubber brake hoses
• Service the brakes
• Rebuild the master cylinder and power booster (the peddle is stiff and goes to the floor)
• New rubber items under the hood (grommets, vacuum hoses) under the hood
• Change fluids
• Change all coolant hoses

What are the go to sources for each one of these items? For the fuel tank steel or is it worth the extra for the stainless steel for corrosion?

What else should I do before firing it up and putting some miles on it?

Jim

 

[Car Nut]

•New Tank - Buy the stainless steel, I wished I knew about them before buying mine.
•New rubber fuel lines - Found at any local parts house.
•New rubber brake hoses - Buy stainless steel, stronger internals.
•Service the brakes - Upgrade to disc's
•Rebuild the master cylinder and power booster (the peddle is stiff and goes to the floor) - Booster Dewey rebuilds them better than stock, if upgrading to disc's upgrade to the dual booster.
•New rubber items under the hood (grommets, vacuum hoses) under the hood
•Change fluids - local parts house
•Change all coolant hoses - Found at any local parts house.
•Wiring - Buy from Yearone, best plug and play wiring sold.

 

[JimKueneman]

Best tanks? TanksInc?
Upgrade to Disks? Aftermarket kit? Link?

If I plan to do this later is it acceptable to use the dual booster with the stock drums?

Jim

 

[Dennis H]

Don't buy a tank from Mopar Ed in the Central Valley. My drums are fine for me with this upgrade kit. They are 11" though. www.musclecarbrakes.com

 

[JimKueneman]

Don't buy a tank from Mopar Ed in the Central Valley. My drums are fine for me with this upgrade kit. They are 11" though. www.musclecarbrakes.com

So it has been 30 years since stomping the brakes of a 60's car. I am assuming what you are saying here is I will be terrified when stopping with this 2 ton monster now that I am accustom to todays standards

 

[GetX'd]

If she's been sitting for 30 years it stands to reason anything rubber or gasket material would be subject to deterioration. You might think about a carburetor rebuild, - at least clean the plugs and points. Reset the timing. If you're planning on doing any serious driving make sure the tires are not dry rotted. I wouldn't drive around on 30 year old tires. There's probably quite a few more basic things you could/should do to get her road ready. I'll let others chime in.

 

[Car Nut]

Best tanks? TanksInc?
Upgrade to Disks? Aftermarket kit? Link?

If I plan to do this later is it acceptable to use the dual booster with the stock drums?

Jim

Stainless steel tanks from Vans on eBay item number: 171918519148,
Baer Disc's kits SS4 - check your wheels size.

 

[moparjohnny]

for brakes google the brakeman he is in texas and knows all mopar brakes he sells them as well.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I got my '68 Coronet 500 home tonight, with a little drama. The J hooks/chains on the flat bed crumpled the gas tank and now I have a varnish (I mean gas) leak. The car has not been driven since 1984 so that gas is _really_ old. This may have been a good thing so I can get a new tank from the towing company so here come the questions:

This car has not been driven since '84 and has been in storage. Here is the short list of things I want to do before even thinking about putting it on the road:

• New Tank
• New rubber fuel lines
• New rubber brake hoses
• Service the brakes
• Rebuild the master cylinder and power booster (the peddle is stiff and goes to the floor)
• New rubber items under the hood (grommets, vacuum hoses) under the hood
• Change fluids
• Change all coolant hoses

What else should I do before firing it up and putting some miles on it?

Jim

For the brakes, that's a no brainer, contact Dr. Diff (http://www.doctordiff.com/). He's the best in the business when it comes to Mopar brake kits.

 

[69Runner]

Your list is good, but I tend to focus on the engine first (you can run fuel to the pump from a portable tank) just to see what I am dealing with. Basically a tune up - oil change, plugs etc. Then i check how the transmission shifts (block the wheels or use the parking brake). If all that checks out then I move on to the brakes.

 

[JimKueneman]

Had time to look over the body more. I am starting to seriously just dive in and do all that I wanted to do from the start. It is very straight but I now see it was painted once in its life. They sprayed the trunk, everything in the truck including wiring harnesses, backs of tails lights etc. I also see a few bubbles in the top near the rear window and some rust creeping out from the lower corners of the rear window trim. The rear quarters are appearing solid but there are some blisters in the paint forming behind the rear wheels.

If I am going to spend time disassembling to do the above I am thinking just go whole hog and get the rust stopped and painted while it is apart.

Next questions:

1) What special tools are suggested, and how do I get the window trim off without damaging it? There is not a dent or mark on the trim and I don't want to be the cause of the first. The window rubber is hard as a rock.
2) Is there a go to place for new weatherstipping kits, it was clear the trunk leaks as the car was taking out of storage and placed outside since September, there was fresh surface rust under the trunk liner
3) Is there a go to place for new window rubber/seals?

Thanks,
Jim

- - - Updated - - -

Another question, is there "correct" place and an "incorrect" place to jack and place jack stands on this body?

Jim

 

[69Runner]

When jacking the entire rear I jack from the pumpkin. From the front, under the K-member. These uni-body cars can twist when jacking high from the side, so I like to use one at the back (on the frame) near the forward spring bushing and at the front (on the frame) behind the wheel. See red circles in pic.

Jack stands can go under the axle, and at the front where the K-member bolts to the frame on either side. Hope this makes sense.

Borrowed this pic.

 

[JimKueneman]

When jacking the entire rear I jack from the pumpkin. From the front, under the K-member. These uni-body cars can twist when jacking high from the side, so I like to use one at the back (on the frame) near the forward spring bushing and at the front (on the frame) behind the wheel. See red circles in pic.

Jack stands can go under the axle, and at the front where the K-member bolts to the frame on either side. Hope this makes sense.

Borrowed this pic.

Thanks for the answer and double thanks for the photo. That is the cleanest rotissorie I have ever seen. I will be making one of those. Crawling around on the floor is not in my vocabulary any more!

jim

 

[idrivemopar]

If its been sitting that long, I would also completely bleed the brake system, may need new wheel cylinders for rear drums and calipers for front, unless its got drums, seals may be dried out. Also, repack the wheel bearings on the front, change the diff fluid on the rear. Check all your wiring to make sure nothing is corroded out, especially ground wires, they can be rusty where they connect, especially under the hood. Don't drive it on 30 year old tires. Prime the cylinders before you start her up! Also make sure the fuel lines are clear, I am guessing there is some level of rust on the insides, maybe flush them out as well, and new filter of course.