I have a complete 426 MW sitting on a pallet in my shop. I need to attach my engine lift to it so I can put it in the car. Where are the lift points??? Do I use the bolt holes where the exhaust manifold will attach? If I do that, it appears to me that I may have to use some spacers to ensure that the chains don't come in contact with the valve covers. I don't see anything obvious on the top. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer. /Butch
I was hoping not to remove the carbs, but if that's the best option, that's what I'll do. Seems to me it could be difficult to balance the weight of the motor, but could be wrong, having not done this before.
If I were in your place, I would use an old seat belt. It won't marr the manifold. I would remove the carbs though. I have a bunch of out-dated racing belts, and that is about all they are good for. I wouldn't hesitate to pick up 1000lbs. Best option imo, pull the intake and carbs as a unit.
Cylinder heads are tapped F&R for accessories (think alternator mount). The plates on mine are straight, not bent at 90 degrees like pictured. Gives you 4 point lift, and will most likely clear. Plus you can tilt for ease of installation.
take the carbs , linkage, and dist. out and off. put a chain from drivers rear head in factory 3/8 threaded holes, run chain across intake to pass side head in front, use threaded hole in head, put a blanket over intake to protect from chain. done this several times.
What silversedan said. On my 440 (based), with the crossram in place. Though, it's best to get one of the chain type, with good steel mounting plates, that bolt to the two ends of the heads. I left my carbs off, for clearance for the chain to crossover. The mounting plates keep it all high enough, to stay off the top side of the engine. Worked fine.
The best way to put a MW engine into a car is from the bottom. That is the way the factory did it. Putting it in from the top is a lot of work.
If you mean me...of course NOT! At the iron heads. And, besides the majority of the engine, crossram in place, 727 was also mounted on the engine. I didn't have the means to come from underneath...so, over the top. I've done that many times. Just saying, can be done.
Do yourself a favour and get AndyF's lift plates. They work perfect for a MW motor with the intake still bolted on. I personally would not use the intake carb plates as lifting points. I've done a couple of MW motors and the carb bolt holes in oem intakes are usually buggered up. Hate to see you have the motor hanging and a bolt pulls out of the soft oem aluminum . I've pulled a few carb studs out due age and softness of the metal, and the have to helicoil which is no big deal. With the plates, make a spreader bar so the chains from plates to bar lift straight up and dont mar the block. Use the drivers side rear exhaust side and passengers front exhaust and you'll have plenty of room to install the engine in the car.
