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Lookie what $5000 buys you....

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
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Ta-da !
1970 Charger XH model.
The car has been sitting for at least 10 years, probably more.
XH 1.jpg
XH 2.jpg
XH 3.jpg
XH 4.jpg


Floors are solid. Rear window channel looks great even though it had a vinyl top. Trunk needs a new floor pan though. No flip top cap or filler neck. Probably a bunch of missing parts that I haven't noticed yet.
 
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It has the original 383 2 barrel. Non original 727. 8 1/4" axle.

Interior obviously has suffered from the ravages of time.
XH 6.jpg
 
FK5 burnt orange with matching interior. The 1970 Charger models were as follows: R/T was the performance model and had an XS in the VIN. The 500 was a trim package similar to a Sport Satellite, it had an XP in the VIN. The lowest trim level was the XH. THis car is the XH. I guess this was a lower priced model built to be more cost competitive. Bench seat, column shift, no clock or tach, no tail panel trim.
XH 2.jpg
 
The car was in a parking lot speed collision way long ago. The RF frame rail is bent upward as seen in the pictures.

XH 33.jpg

I had to put a pair of '73 Duster disc knuckles and rotors on it to make it a roller. It might have been a disc car, I don't know. No fender tag and so far no build sheet.
XH 30.jpg
 
Look across the front. You can see the way the RH fender apron is bent up:
XH 33.jpg
XH 34.jpg

There is also a dent and a fold where the firewall and cowl meet, near the fender-door-hood-cowl area.
XH 35.jpg
 
I have a core support and frame rails from a '68 Satellite as well as a complete front stub from a '70 Belvedere.
I am thinking of having the car straightened on a frame rack then deciding at that point how to proceed. If the metal all falls back into place , I'd leave it. If wrinkles remain or it looks bad, I could then replace what is needed.
 
The sale included a nice grille and front bumper and an 8 3/4" axle without a 3rd member or brakes. I got a nice hood, fair fenders and a beat up valance panel.
The car still sits at my buddy's place until he can clear a path to get it out. He has 2 non running cars blocking the way out of his yard. Once I get it home, I'll need to inventory what is there and what I'll need. I might use some "Hand-me-downs" from my red car...That is a good excuse to make upgrades to the car I'm keeping, right?

I had to use a floor jack to rotate in 90 degrees so it can be pushed out of the yard.
XH 31.jpg

XH 32.jpg

Do the wheels look familiar?

POS.jpg
 
I have a core support and frame rails from a '68 Satellite as well as a complete front stub from a '70 Belvedere.
I am thinking of having the car straightened on a frame rack then deciding at that point how to proceed. If the metal all falls back into place , I'd leave it. If wrinkles remain or it looks bad, I could then replace what is needed.


One thing to make clear to the frame shop... The car will be fixed... Back in the 90's a friend took a Roadrunner into a local shop & had them pull the frame "Straight" well when he picked the car up it visually was much better but things didn't seem to line up... I told him we needed to remeasure everything.. He insisted professionals had taken care of it... When the car was finished, painted & beautiful but wouldn't sit level no matter how make sets of springs he changed I convinced him he needed to take measurements.... The drivers rail was still about 3/4" high....

Of course the frame shop denied any responsibility, "It was right when it left here"...

I guarantee they saw an old car that they figured would never be fixed or if it was it would be a beater.... They were wrong... But he had to eat the repair which wound up being extensive...
 
Cool score. Does it have a title? You should have snagged those brake on that wagon. Could have put then on this.
 
The wagon in Carson city has 11" drums. I'm going to either keep the 10" drums with this axle or some disc brake kit.
It has a salvaged title but it is clean.
It is surprising that I had to pay $5000 to get a car that needs this much work considering that my other '70 Charger was bought for $1700 in March 2000 and it ran and drove great!

$ 5000:

XH 32.jpg


$1700:
1M.JPG
 
The wagon in Carson city has 11" drums. I'm going to either keep the 10" drums with this axle or some disc brake kit.
It has a salvaged title but it is clean.
It is surprising that I had to pay $5000 to get a car that needs this much work considering that my other '70 Charger was bought for $1700 in March 2000 and it ran and drove great!

$ 5000:

View attachment 824497

$1700:
View attachment 824498
Inflation.
 
A/C car to boot! Awesome.
Clearly we're all getting older.. There was a time when nobody wanted A/C cause it cluttered the top of the engine....

In the past couple months I've gotten quite a few A/C systems that hadn't worked in years up & running... It's nice on a 100+ degree day to have ice cold A/C.....
 
I have a core support and frame rails from a '68 Satellite as well as a complete front stub from a '70 Belvedere.
I am thinking of having the car straightened on a frame rack then deciding at that point how to proceed. If the metal all falls back into place , I'd leave it. If wrinkles remain or it looks bad, I could then replace what is needed.

if the door opening isn't affected, and you have the rails and core support; you wont need any frame rack........ it WILL all fall into place; ...... everyone always wants to over think it..... do you have a mig welder?
 
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if the door opening isn't affected, and you have the rails and core support; you wont need any frame rack........ it WILL all fall into place; ...... everyone always wants to over think it..... do you have a mig welder?
The doors open and close just fine. There is a bit of an impression at the firewall though.
Mig? Oh yeah...I've welded a LOT over the years. Frame connectors, torque boxes, quarter panels, exhaust systems, I've modified tools, all sorts of mayhem.
The core support on the car is shredded. The RH frame rail is bent upward. I'm wondering if I have the car up on jackstands, could I just put a long pipe on the frame rail and bend it down to match the right side ? Once the frame is within spec, I could weld in the replacement core support, right?
What worries me is welding something and having it somehow "Spring back" from the adjustment. In construction, we often adjust a little past what is needed and once a brace is removed, it springs back to where we want it.
 
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