Looking at a 70 Superbee, any help is appreciated

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  1. Bossbos

    Bossbos Member

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    Hi guys and gals. I found a local 1970 Suberbee and thought I would pick your brain on what to look for. I'm a ford guy for the most part, I know, I know, but looking into other muscle car adventures.

    Anyway, here's what I know so far, 1970 Suberbee, it has the flatter hood, I think this is a 1 year only but don't know for sure. The car is apart, engine, tranny out, doors, fenders, hood, trunk lid off, interior out. I think it has all the glass. Supposedly comes with a non-stock 440. Don't know if it's a 4 spd car or automatic.

    Being that the car is totally apart, I'm guessing it will need everything, seller wants $7k for it.

    Other than Vin#'s what do I look for to confirm it's a suberbee, where do I look for rust, what other issues should I look for in this car.What parts are a must have in the sense of hard to find replacement or high price replacements. I plan on looking at it Wednesday. Kind of trying to do some home work before pulling the trigger on it.

    Here's a link;

    Thanks for any input. I appreciate the help.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
  2. Dennis H

    Dennis H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    No link. Missing parts biggest concern.
     
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    • Sahara

      Sahara FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Front grills. Expensive to find if yours are missing or trashed. Hoods are tough to find. Original radios, especially AM/FM.
       
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      • Dennis H

        Dennis H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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        Hoods and grilles are available. If you are a millionaire.
         
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        • Bossbos

          Bossbos Member

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          Here's the link, it's slow loading

           
        • Dennis H

          Dennis H FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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          817D6ADB-BAFE-495D-8E38-A7CA8EC5E828.png
           
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          • Ghostrider 67

            Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            You need to see WM as the first two digits of the VIN. If it's a Dodge Coronet Super-bee 1969-1970. Then (23), fifth digit will tell you which engine it was born with, sixth digit should be a zero for 1970, seventh tells you where it was built, the last 6 didgits are the sequence number, ( Where, in the total number of cars built, yours stands.)

            "As for the other Dodge B-body, the heavily restyled Coronets were built in no less than six ranges–base police/taxi, Coronet Deluxe, Coronet 440, Coronet 500, Coronet R/T and Super Bee–with 22 separate models based on body style. In the performance models, Dodge built 11,540 Super Bee hardtops and 3,966 coupes in 1970, along with 2,319 Coronet R/T hardtops and the rarest 1970 B-body, the 296 Coronet R/T convertibles that were produced. Slim pickings, given that 1970 Coronet sales totaled 118,449.:

            "Trivia time: The only difference between a 1970 hardtop and coupe was that the hardtop’s rear quarter windows were cranked down instead of swinging outward."

            If it's a 4 speed car it will have the factory tunnel hole for a 4 speed. along with the linkages. should look like this when assembled..

            ebay279420.jpg
            Rust to watch out for is along each rear windshield bottom corner, trunk front gutter corners, floor pans under where your feet go, floor pan braces underneath, frame rails, rockers, radiator support frame, trunk drop offs and wheel wells front and back, torque box areas.
            Good luck.
             
            Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
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            • Builderguy

              Builderguy Active Member

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              I have heard this all too often, "ALL PARTS SEEM TO BE PRESENT" but seldom is it true. Just the little extras, air cleaner, good instrument cluster, good seats or at least seats the can be recovered, head liner, lights, wires, etc. can add up to thousands of dollars. I could go on and on. Completely disassembled is one of the hardest buys if you are not familiar with the vehicle your trying to piece back together. I have bought several of these blown apart cars. I made money on some and lost money on others. If this is your dream car, knock yourself out and go for the gold. If you just want to try some Mopar muscle I would think twice about this one, there are still plenty of cars out there that are still together and much easier to inspect. Granted, you may have to log on a 1000 miles to find a decent candidate but a lot of the fun is the hunt. And hunting is the cheapest part of rebuilding one of these cars. Good luck
               
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              • Ghostrider 67

                Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                Should also have Super Bee stripes down the sides with the logo on each quarter. If not, and If it has anything other than WM as the first two digits, it's NOT a Super Bee. Period.
                 
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                • Ghostrider 67

                  Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I agree 100%. If there's a FBBO member near you ask them to come with to see the car. There is a map of member locations but it's currently frozen due to whatever problems...Ask here if there are any....
                   
                • Ghostrider 67

                  Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  I'm not seeing any stripes on those quarters. I would be suspicious if he tells you something like," Oh, yeah those got sanded off and painted over...." Nobody would willingly take a 1 of 3966 Super Bee coupe and remove the stripe package. It should also have the heavy duty front end suspension package and a V8 K-Frame. It may have had the stripes deleted when ordered though. They also came standard with a floor mounted three speed so be looking for the A833 4 speed trans. The factory offered the following engines.....
                  Production: 2D Pillared Coupe: 3,966. 2D Hardtop Coupe: 11,540.
                  Engines: 383 V8 335bhp@5200rpm, 425lb-ft@3400rpm. 426 Hemi V8 425bhp@5000rpm, 490lb-ft@4000rpm. 440 V8 375bhp@4600rpm, 480lb-ft@3200rpm. 440+6 V8 390bhp@4700rpm, 490lb-ft@3200rpm.
                  Performance: 383/335bhp: 0-60 in 7.1 sec, 1/4 mile in 15.0 sec @ 96mph. 426/425bhp: 0-60 in 5.3 sec, 1/4 mile in 13.49 sec @ 105mph. 440/375bhp: NA. 440/390bhp: NA.
                   
                  Last edited: Nov 10, 2019
                • Ghostrider 67

                  Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                • Sahara

                  Sahara FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                  No 340’s in ‘70 Bee’s.
                   
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                  • Ghostrider 67

                    Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                    sorry. dementia setting in....lol. corrected it. thank you..
                     
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                    • Bossbos

                      Bossbos Member

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                      Thanks for all the feedback, that Hemings car is beautiful. I had a chance to buy a 69 Superbee several years ago and been kicking myself ever since as it was a complete car never taken apart. Anyway, my Boss 302 came as a similar pkg as the 70 Bee I'm asking about. I know that parts get lost when they sit taken apart like this, even if it is a true superbee, I don't think I'm a $7k candidate for it, but who knows. I guess the WM in the tag will help me decide. I'll know more next week when I get a chance to see what's there. Thanks again, and please keep the info coming in.
                       
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                      • flypaper

                        flypaper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                        383,440 6bbl,426 hemi

                        get the first 5 digits of VIN to figure out what engine it came with.
                        the fender tag info if present will tell the cars story
                        the most important thing with these cars if the quarter panels are all present
                        very hard to find replacements.
                        if its not a rot box and the VIN checks and most of the parts are present
                        the asking price is not out of line..
                         
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                        • Sahara

                          Sahara FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          A $7k buy in isn’t unreasonable if it’s say, an original rust free California car.
                           
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                          • Ghostrider 67

                            Ghostrider 67 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                            Hey, i'm just a suspicious guy all around, all of the time when it comes to sellers and muscle cars. I see red flags everywhere...lol. If a deal looks to good to be true it usually isn't true... I personally would need to take a detailed inventory of all parts and trim, all serial numbers of major components, and see exactly what's there and what's missing before I would shell out dime one. If the owner balks at you doing that then run in the other direction. He may not know what the car is, happens. Lots of reasons it could not be as described...the trick is to determine what it IS exactly, what shape it is in, and what's missing. Then offer a price reflecting the above parameters. No percentage in arguing with an owner about whether it's this or that. The VIN tells it in black and white. No wiggle room.
                             
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                            • 4mulas

                              4mulas Well-Known Member

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                              A lot of one year only parts on that bee, hard to get, and expensive. Make sure it’s complete....
                               
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                              • FJ5 Road Runner

                                FJ5 Road Runner Well-Known Member

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                                A few more things to add to the list of hard to find parts are an original style rad,the HP exhaust manifolds and the 70/71 only alternator if you're going for an OEM type restoration.Also,if you need to start looking for a lot of the small but hard to find items like engine mounts,accessory brackets,pulleys,kick down linkage,tranny lines,etc,etc it can be frustrating and expensive.If the original engine/trans are gone,odds are all that stuff went with it at the same time and the (most likely) motorhome sourced 440 will have all different accessories if it has any at all.

                                Front fenders are really hard to come by (and expensive if available) as they're highly sought after for Superbird conversions.

                                Another thing to consider is if the data/fender tag is gone,that's gonna hurt the value of the car when you go to sell it.A build sheet helps bring back some of the value but if neither are present,it will be a tougher sell as many buyers won't buy a car without at least one those unless they're looking for a modified or resto mod type car.
                                 
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