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Looking for recommendations on a 4 post lift

You guys with "standard rise" 4 posts....

I'm 6'3" and have previously had an issue with lifts that rise to 72".

It's insanely annoying to work with a 3" hunch.

Can I get one or more of you to measure the actual distance to the bottom of the runway?

..and then maybe how far from the ground to the actual bottom of the car?


I'm seeing wild variations in shipping prices and accommodations.

Anywhere form free and 300 bucks to 2400 and must have forklift.

Oddly enough, one MFG headquarters is less than 50 miles from me, but the closest place I can pick up is in the next state!
 
YY1 said:
Can I get one or more of you to measure the actual distance to the bottom of the runway?
Click to expand...
These are standard measurements that will be listed in the "specs" of any unit you might be interested in ... usually "height under ramps" or something like that. How high is your shop ??
 
gkent said:
These are standard measurements that will be listed in the "specs" of any unit you might be interested in ... usually "height under ramps" or something like that. How high is your shop ??
Click to expand...

Yes, I see that but I'm more interested in the actual height under the car.

Shop has 12 to 16 foot ceiling.
 
YY1 said:
You guys with "standard rise" 4 posts....

I'm 6'3" and have previously had an issue with lifts that rise to 72".

It's insanely annoying to work with a 3" hunch.

Can I get one or more of you to measure the actual distance to the bottom of the runway?

..and then maybe how far from the ground to the actual bottom of the car?


I'm seeing wild variations in shipping prices and accommodations.

Anywhere form free and 300 bucks to 2400 and must have forklift.

Oddly enough, one MFG headquarters is less than 50 miles from me, but the closest place I can pick up is in the next state!
Click to expand...
For a lot of tasks, I sit in an old office chair on rollers when working under my lifts. (i have a 2 and 4 post in the shop)
For most tasks that is fine, and sitting keeps my lower back happy!
 
YY1 said:
Yes, I see that but I'm more interested in the actual height under the car.

Shop has 12 to 16 foot ceiling.
Click to expand...
Keep in mind, the bridge jack will give you additional space, or lower the vehicle and roll around under the vehicle with a stool or chair...
 
I have an older blue BendPak (maybe 15 years old?) the HD-9XW
BendPak HD-9XW Four-Post Lift - 5175863
It is in a shop with fairly tall celing, so I can run the lift up for car storage and easy walk under the lift and I'm 6'1". I think it has 82" of lift from the spec sheet, and I never have it all the way up.
Car is way too high to work on it when stored that high, but the slope of the roof starts getting close to the hood of the car, so can't store it with the hood open.
I will lift my 2005 Ram 3500 Quad Cab with 8' bed (single rear wheels.) Google says that is a 160.5" wheel base. Bend pack says the runways are 182.25", width outside to outside of the runways is 75.75" and the truck width does take up most of that width. The lift does have the option to move the runways in closer, but all my cars fit on the runways although smaller cars the tires are closer to the inside edge of the runways.
Got the 110Volt pump because the shop didn't have 220v at the time. It is a bit slow lifting with the 110v unit.
Got the bridge that you can put bottle jack(s) on. I also have a 2-Ton transmission jack and tall axle stands if I need to get the tires off the runways.
I bought the caster kit, but only used it once. pretty much don't need it and the casters take up storage space in the garage when not being used.
For car storage, the drip trays are nice to have.
One big consideration with the bendpak is it needs compressed air supply to operate the locks as they are pneumatic.
 
gkent said:
Huh?! How do you figure that ??
Click to expand...
Well, he said he's 6'3" and doesn't want to work hunched over. So, you roll the bridge jack under one end, raise the car up 6 or 8 inches and voila! you don't have to hunch over so much. I raised my Jeep up and put jack stands under it. Lowered the jack and rolled it to the other end, raised it up and installed Jack stands. Then I did all the brakes, rotated the tires etc...
 
Once you have a lift, then all the accessories start adding up.
The 15 to 20 gallon rolling oil drain tanks are nice, but fill up quicker than you might think.
Have one for oils (motor oil, trans fluid, and gear oil), and another just for coolant.
One of the main reasons I bought the lift was for removing and installing transmissions, so needed the transmission jack. I think earlier I said 2 ton, but it's a 1-ton (Ranger RTJ-1) so around 2,000 pound capacity. Costs about $1,000.
Got some tall axle jack stands to position mufflers and can also use to lift the rear axle off the runways to remove tires and such.
I use the WD-40 Specialist chain & wire rope lube on the cables, and wheel bearing grease on the sheave pivot pins.
 
Our county provides oil drain containers for free... LOL
beeoilchangesept252021 004.JPG
beeoilchangesept252021 006.JPG
beeoilchangesept252021 008.JPG
 
I get 55-gallon barrels from a local shop to fill. He has 2 shops heated with drain oil.
Mike
 
I have a 20 gal tank on wheels, and when it gets full I load it in the truck and take to the county recycling center and dump it for free. Pressurize with my portable air tank and it runs right into their tank without having to take it out of the truck.

20-Gallon-Capacity-Heavy-Duty-Portable-Waste-Oil-Drain-Change-Tank-Air-Operated-Drainer-with-...jpeg
 
I gave alot of used oil to a friend with a waste oil heater, and when he didn't need more I took it to the race track where they had 55 gallon drums.
Had the rolling oil tank in the pickup bed, backed up to the 55 gallon drum, and drained the oil tank right from the truck bed.
There is a antifreeze recycler not too far from me I take the antifreeze to. Clear Choice Antifreeze – Colorado's Leading Antifreeze Service Provider
 
I got an Atlas 8K 4-post "tall" lift about six years ago and really like it. The quality is very good. My buddy recently got a cheap one from Temu, and the quality of construction shows in connectors, assembly, and hardware. His works OK but mine is clearly better. My trusses in the shop are right at 12' so I can get a car on the lift and still park another one underneath if needed.

A couple of things I might do differently if I started over:

I did get the bridge jack but that thing was expensive and it is HEAVY. Which means it stays in place on the tracks. I have to move it back and forth depending on what I'm working on. It's also not smooth to move because it slides on a flat bracket. Wheels would be way better. I also would give a try to the airbag jack idea instead. Much simpler and easier, and it just might be good enough.

I added lighting to my inner tracks, using LED strip lights. They stay out of the way and make a tremendous difference in being able to see what I'm doing. Cheap and highly recommended.

I had to get some different jack stands, as it was a bit of a challenge to get them in place when working on the front end or rear end. They tend to want to be placed at the very inner edge of the runway. The new stands fit fine but it was a hassle to find the right ones.

However, all said I'd still do this again. Not having to get on the floor or a creeper is worth the price of admission. :)
 
FU64RY said:
I helped my friend install his last week. He got it from Temy $2700 delivered to a local trucking dock.
8500* Really Really well built, Very heavy constructions, I have a back yard buddy and his is much better built, He put it on 4" garage concrete free standing. I was totally impressed.
Click to expand...
Free standing……. Bad things can happen…

IMG_8074.jpeg


IMG_8073.jpeg
 
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