Lower Ball Joint

[Coronet_Arch]

When I installed the lower ball joint and torqued it to spec, 100 foot ponds, the hole in the stud for the cotter pin is above the nut. What is the issue?

 

[dadsbee]

Seems typical with the aftermarket stuff. You get those from PST? Mine were the same, or close to that. Tap the cotter head down a touch into a nut grove and one tail into the opposing nut grove and call it a day.

 

[kiwigtx]

It actually looks like the hole is clear and above the top of the castle nut - which renders the cotter pin useless.
Maybe using a thick washer to pack out the nut would be a better idea?

 

[R/T Boy 67]

I would make good and sure that the nut is not bottoming out on the thread or the small end of the taper, before it tightens up properly. I always check that before I tighten it down.

 

[kiwigtx]

@Coronet_Arch - what is going on here with this 'bolt'?

Are you using the correct parts on this car?

 

[Demonic]

Get a thick, hardened washer.

 

[Coronet_Arch]

The bolt I used was supplied with the disc brake kit. It seemed overly long like it would hit the sway bar end link. I shortened it so 2 threads are still out. I would have preferred to install them with the head side out like the drums had, but the extra thread would interfere with the inside of the rotor. The nuts are locking type with interference threads. Not my best work on cutting the extra reread off.

 

[69B7RR]

I recently experienced the same issue. What I found was that the outer taper of the replacement ball joint lower stud portion was smaller than the removed OE joint. This undersize caused the the stud to seat farther in the knuckle and the threaded portion to protrude farther outward. The second issue caused, is as described by RT Boy 67, the threads start to bottom out as the castle nut first inner thread is inset. The lower ball joints that I used were Moog-made in USA-purchased new 20 yrs ago. Compared & spec’d to another currently available replacement ball joint and found the taper to also be undersize from OE. As dadsbee said, this may be typical of some aftermarket stuff. What I did to resolve the issue was to use the same size washer/spacer on the lower, as was used & factory installed below the upper ball joint, between the knuckle and castle nut. Anyway, I’m no expert in any of this stuff, hope it helps.......Jim

 

[Coronet_Arch]

I looked at the old lower ball joint and realized the castle nut was taller than the new castle nut.

I went back and installed the original castle nut and it solved the issue.

Thank you for the replies and suggestions.

 

[oldkimmer]

Good deal. The aftermarket sometimes supply’s a hardened washer with them to take up the space. Kim

 

[Cranky]

And junk made in China is worse.....