M/C question

[rrTor-Red]

Hello all:

I have a question and to tell the truth, confused about master cylinders. Converting the front to disc and keeping the rear drums. Putting on a new master for this

The manual says to bench bleed the master prior to install. My question is and here's the confusion : Why bleed the master first prior to install? I mean all lines, master are new if I gotta bleed the whole system after everything is installed.
Can I install it, use brake pedal to bleed PRIOR to hooking up the new lines? I don't have a vise.

My car is recently painted and I didn't want to take the chance to spill brake fluid in the engine bay. Also, don't know how to do this without spilling. IF I have or should bleed it prior, how do I go about doing it?

Thanks guys

 

[Badvert65]

You want to fill the M/C (internally) with fluid, in the piston/bore area. Otherwise, you are just going to pump air into the system and make bleeding that much more difficult. If you are worried about paint, put it in a big plastic bag for the install and then take the bag off after it is bolted up.

 

[440+6]

You must bench bleed the master otherwise you'll never get all the air out of it, just cover everything below it before installing.

 

[Badvert65]

Oh, forgot to add...
I use the brake pedal to bleed these thing all the time (well, when changing M/C). I just bolt it up, connect the bleeder kit, and carefully pump the air out (move the pedal slowly or fluid will spray up out of the reservoir when you release the pedal). hook up the lines and go for it.

 

[rrTor-Red]

What would everyone recommend for a bleeder kit? Stainless lines if that matters.

Never thought of enclosing it in a plastic bag, good idea

 

[Badvert65]

the M/C usually come with a bleeder kit but you can easily make one out of a piece of metal brake line. Get a new one that has ends that screw into your M/C and then cut it in half, bend the cut ends around into the reservoir and you have it. This usually works better for me as the rubber hoses they give you don't always stay in place. Just make certain the tubes are long enough to submerge the ends in the filled M/C (don't want to add more air or splash fluid around).

 

[rrTor-Red]

the M/C usually come with a bleeder kit but you can easily make one out of a piece of metal brake line. Get a new one that has ends that screw into your M/C and then cut it in half, bend the cut ends around into the reservoir and you have it. This usually works better for me as the rubber hoses they give you don't always stay in place. Just make certain the tubes are long enough to submerge the ends in the filled M/C (don't want to add more air or splash fluid around).

My new M/C didn't come with a bleeder kit. Im converting the front to discs using Mopar 11.75 discs. So with that, Ill have to fab my own or purchase a bleeder kit to work with it

 

[themechanic]

You can buy the bleeder kit at NAPA. However, you do not have to bench bleed the master cyclinder if you have a vacuum pump. See the video here:[video=youtube;wsWGTr-NJ48]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=wsWGTr-NJ48[/video]

You can use DOT5 fluid in your new system. The benefit of DOT5 is it will not harm your paint.

 

[clemul]

You can buy the bleeder kit at NAPA. However, you do not have to bench bleed the master cyclinder if you have a vacuum pump. See the video here:[video=youtube;wsWGTr-NJ48]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=wsWGTr-NJ48[/video]

You can use DOT5 fluid in your new system. The benefit of DOT5 is it will not harm your paint.

Dot 5 is what will be going back in mine when it goes back together... Some interesting links:

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/quest/binder_juice.html

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-200979.html