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Magnum Time

ChryslerKid

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I have been been meaning to swap out the sloppy old 360 i pulled from a motorhome thats currently in my cordoba for a while now. Took a trip to the junkyard with low expectations. They wont let you bring in batteries and jumper boxes so i snuck in a motorcycle battery under my tools with a compression tester. I found a nice ram 1500 that was rolled so i pull a plug and hook up the tester. The keys were inside so i checked the milage, 105k. The battery i used has 200 cca so it barely wanted to crank. The damn motor fired up on the first crank with the compression tester in running on 7 cylinders. Didnt want to get kicked out so i shut it off and yanked her out. Not an ounce of carbon or sludge when i pulled the intake the motor was spotless. As an added bonus the transmission was a brand spanking new rebuild so i took that for my cousins truck. 50% off all parts at the yard this weekend so i got a motor and transmission for less than $300. Im pretty stoked.

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The 5.9 is one of Chrysler's finest.
What do you plan to do to it?
 
The 5.9 is one of Chrysler's finest.
What do you plan to do to it?
Dress it just like an LA. I dont care about originality i just prefer the mechanical fuel pump, v belts, carb etc.. Im really curious about the cam adapter kit on hughes for the mech fuel pump eccentric. I found a Mopar intake for a magnum on craigslist already im going to pick up. Might throw some headers on. Nothing crazy.
 
Ansen makes some nice covers, I have a set of there;
https://www.ansenvalvecovers.com/co...e-magnum-valve-covers-5-2-5-9-v8-finned-black

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0072/9658/1703/products/Mopar-Magnum_1512x.jpg?v=1635179919

I just threw bolt on parts on mine, 750 carb, RPM intake, Hooker super comp headers (1-3/4, excellent fit!) dual 2-1/2 exhaust, chrome box ignition. Works great. It’s a known 300 hp plus combo.

If you add a cam, the stock roller lifters are good to 5K & then some, no worries
 
Magnums are known for head crack issues. Saw many going over the parts counter to the techs when I worked at the dealers. Might be a good idea to pop them off to get checked.
 
Magnums are known for head crack issues. Saw many going over the parts counter to the techs when I worked at the dealers. Might be a good idea to pop them off to get checked.
While this is a high probability that there cracked, the cracks don’t effect anything. Everyone said my heads are cracked and I do t give a crud. I have t take. Them off because the engine runs just fine. Zero issues. Why fix what’s not broken?

If your just going to use the engine with bolt on parts and if you want to do a cam, do t worry about it. Just run with it. Give it a compression check and go with it if it’s good.
 
So i know the converter has to be used with the new engine. What about the harmonic balancer can i take that from my old engine so i can use the v belt crank pulley?

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Summit has a balancer that has 3 different weights to attach or not.

Or

Use an OE balancer that matches the engines balance without the built in Serpentine hub
 
Summit has a balancer that has 3 different weights to attach or not.

Or

Use an OE balancer that matches the engines balance without the built in Serpentine hub
So im pretty ignorant on this subject. By oe do you mean to use a very early magnum dampner as these are the only years that have an option without a one piece dampner/pulley? If i did get the balancer from summit is that something i could do myself or would i have to get it setup by a builder?
 
No problem being a new guy, glad to know up front.

“OE” is Original Equipment & OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer.

Yes! You can do this yourself. NO problem.
Just a quick word on damper/balancers.
The fit should be an interference fit of a minor minor amount. Super small. If you can shove the balancer half way on the snout almost 1/2 way down to its seat, it’s junk. If you see the runner between the two balancer rings looking a little bit frayed, splitting, it’s junk. Throw it out and be miles ahead of the game in longevity with a new unit.

About balancers;
The 5.9 is an externally balance engine. The damper is weighted for its specific engine. The 5.2 in an internal balanced engine. You can not swap balancers between the engines.

Earlier 360 engines are also externally balanced but the weights are different than the 5.9. This is because the rods and pistons are lighter. These balancers can not be swapped.

The earlier engines do not have a built into it pulley. Some of the Magnums have this on there balancer.
Below is a Magnum damper you will need to have for use with the older V belt style pulley set up. Notice the he area up top that has some metal missing not allowing a completely flat surface. This provides the balance needed for the 5.9. If there was metal there, or more missing, the engine will not sit steady in the engine bay and rumble on he engine and car as you drive down the road.

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Below is a 318 internal balanced damper. It is solid all the way around. You don’t want this one.

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You’ll have to go to Summit to see there selection on a balancer for the small block. The one I used goes under the “Pro Parts” brand. I’m comes with 2 weights and screw caps to attach it to the damper. One is for the LA engine and the other is for the Magnum engine. Sorry I can not get a picture of it. It’s on the car and there is no hood picture angle to get. It’s a bright steel color that is painted/powder coated in clear.

VERIFY THIS BEFORE ORDERING

How is the job done?

In order to get the damper off, the required DIY tools are a damper/balancer puller. Also what ever size wrench you need to turn the screw caps to attach it and turn the big main bolt of the tool so run the balancer/damper off the crank.

Below is the style you’ll need to pull the non removable cast in pulley damper/balancer off the crank. The “Claws” will grab the pulley.
(My 2003 - 5.9 has this pulley cast into the balancer.)

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On the other damper/balancers, this style below is used.

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On this style, simple select one of the attaching screws size to hold it the metal part on the damper face, then run the long screw in. Use a cap, flat or pointed to be installed on its end. This will sit on the crank and not damage it. This one happens to use a 5/8 wrench/socked, what ever to turn it. Make sure the contour part faces inwards so the attaching screws sit flat and flush on the backside.

Installing the damper/balancer can be done several ways and the best one is with a tool that is basically a much longer crank bolt. Others (and myself) have made use of a 2X4 block of wood and a dead blow hammer. The wood is forgiving as well as the dead blow hammer. It should not damage the balancer/damper.
 
Thank you. My question was specifically was what year of magnum motors came with a balancer with threaded holes that would work with an early crank pulley 92'-93'? And if i buy an aftermarket balancer with seperate weights for different engines how do i go about installing the right weight. Does it bolt on through the pulley holes at any location or is there more involved.
 
So ive got a few questions..
1.Anybody ever drill out the extraholes on an LA style valve cover or is the lack of a recess in the cover going to make it impossible? I prefer the look of the old style covers but am not not willing to give up the rubber gasket and extra holes the magnum covers provide.
2. I have the option of getting LA or magnum style motor mounts. Will both work and if so which would be a better option.
3. I would like to get the cam snout adapter from Hughes for the mechanical pump. Im sure i could look at the old motor and figure out how to install the old eccentric, but to those of you who have done this before are there any tips or tricks to it?
 
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Was wondering if this intake would work for my build. Looks like it has the verticle bolt holes. He says its for a 318/340 would the ports be different sizes for a magnum motor like an LA?

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Pulling out some broken bolts and cleaning up all the bolt holes with a tap today. It got me thinking, since the intake bolts are verticle would there be any down side to running studs and nuts instead of bolts?

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There is no problem running studs....however....adhere to factory torque specs or perhaps consider even less torque than specified, as long as you're able to make it seal. Reasoning: The vertical bolt arrangement causes the intake manifold to force the heads apart from each other which is not really desirable.

Also, the manifold may be very difficult to R&R in the future because of the studs. For this reason I personally would not use them but it is a judgement everyone should make for themselves.
 
Damn its almost been a year. Projects like this get put on hold and time gets away from you. Almost there now.

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Well im finally done, got to take her out for a drive today. Even with all stock internals it feels like a whole new car compared to the sloppy old LA 360 I had in there. Honestly more relieved than excited. I can finally stop getting nickled and dimed by this project and enjoy it.

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