Rather than hunt down my earlier post I'm tossing a new one to run an idea by you or if anyone has tried this. My convert top header seal (aftermarket) on my '63 Plymouth is **** compared to the OEM that's no longer to be had. The new seal cost $100 and the corners are thinner than the originals where sealing was needed from water at these corners. So got the brainstorm to make a corner mold to adhere to the seal once I can make it using Flex-Seal liquid rubber. My idea is to set a mold impression in the top corners using saranwrap or wax paper, have it cure, and then take that out of the 'mold' then use weather seal adhesive to conjoin with the header seal. My guess is it won't be pretty; but have to get a decent seal from rain water. Anyone toyed around with this sort a thing? Thanks!
Making a custom rubber weatherstrip 'Mold'
- Thread starter Ron H
- Start date
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
You know, your idea isnt' "that crazy" and no, it won't be pretty, but all black at least. You might want to do some pre-testing with mold releases, probably silicone, but maybe some other type. Spray mold release on some scrap steel, pour the flex seal & see if it comes off easily after curing. My point is, I think you'll get a better result pouring the flex-seal directly onto the top head, no saran wrap. You just need to be SURE you've got a mold release that works well with flex-seal. Flex Seal does contain some solvent which will likely remove some of the black paint on the header.
Instead of flex seal, you might look for a 100% solids (no solvent) 2-component polyurethane molding compound. That would glue to the header seal the same way you describe and not affect your header paint (with a good, pre-tested silicone mold release). There are materials out there actually designed for what you're trying to do. You'd be looking for one with a hardness of roughly "80 shore A" or "30 shore D"... those are just stiffness ratings for molding compounds and you'll see what I mean if you search online.
This is one that might be a little soft, but something like this is what I'm talking about https://www.polytek.com/product-type/poly-fast-72-40-liquid-mold-rubber
Instead of flex seal, you might look for a 100% solids (no solvent) 2-component polyurethane molding compound. That would glue to the header seal the same way you describe and not affect your header paint (with a good, pre-tested silicone mold release). There are materials out there actually designed for what you're trying to do. You'd be looking for one with a hardness of roughly "80 shore A" or "30 shore D"... those are just stiffness ratings for molding compounds and you'll see what I mean if you search online.
This is one that might be a little soft, but something like this is what I'm talking about https://www.polytek.com/product-type/poly-fast-72-40-liquid-mold-rubber
Last edited:
Darter6
Well-Known Member
I kinda had the same Idea with vent wing window seals. They want $253 (each)for the rubber seal.My 63 Belvedere is just a bomber,I figured what the heck let's try this.Using Permatex Ultra Black silicone , I put a thin coat of Vasoline on the glass edges and filled the voids in the rubber seal.Let it dry for 24 hours and opened the vent, cleaned off the Vasoline and ended up with a good seal.Worked for me.
You know your stuff here on this. Thanks. It's an idea of some long frustration trying to solve this problem. Guys having this model likely know the dilemma I'm describing as the design and the inserting for the seal is weird as are the side window channels to actually get those to set in the channels just right.
Similar threads
