Manual brakes: upgrade issue

[Hammer108]

I’m replacing the single MC for a dual unit.
Do I reuse the rod from the pedal to the old single MC?

I ask because the rod will not slide into the back of the new MC. Plus there are no bolts holes in the new adaptor plate to hold the bracket from the old MC.
1st pic is of rear of old MC
2nd is pic of new MC and brake rod.
3rd is the rod itself

Suggestions on using the new MC or do I do back to the old single MC.

Dr Diff sells a new rod but it’s for 66 and up. Mines a 1965 Coronet.

Suggestions?

 

[R413]

You have to remove the piston from the master cylinder rod and toss it.

look in the back of the piston on the new one and see if there is a groove for the rod retainer.

then buy this

Mopar Manual Brake Push-Rod Retainer, Bushing, Clip Rubber Grommet

 

[Don67Satellite]

If you buy the aluminum MC kit from Dr. Diff, it has the groove for the rubber retainer and he includes a new one with the MC purchase as well as the adapter to bolt to firewall. You can then just use the stock push rod.

Like @R413 said, you need to remove the piston from the rod, same thing happened when I removed my old MC. A few hammer taps and it will come off.

 

[gkent]

There's nothing wrong with the new m/c. BUT you need the adapter plate made by AR Engineering and available from numerous sources including Mancini.

Mancini Racing Master Cylinder Adapter

 

[493 Mike]

The 67 dual master would bolt on. Plan ahead.
Mike

 

[gkent]

WTF ... guy's got a brand new m/c sitting in front of him and people are suggesting he go buy something else !!! Some people love spending someone else's money !!

 

[Fran Blacker]

If OP ends up buying an adjustable pushrod because of the 2 bolt to 4 adapter, stop switch won't work. The nub at end of pushrod works the switch. Adjustable doesn't have that nub.

 

[gkent]

Just cut and lengthen the original pushrod !!

 

[RemCharger]

1. Mike is right. Most people would just get a 67 m/c and go.
2. If you want to use that one, you can drill 2 holes and mount the 2 bolt cyl directly.

Dual lines? To a proportiong block?

 

[MoparLeo]

Just recommending that you use the correct parts. You are changing to something different then what the car came with. As said, are you doing a proper split brake system conversion or just a master cylinder with not much fluid volume...?
Did you do your research before you bought whatever part you bought ? Brakes are the most important system on a car. If it won't stop, you can't drive it...

 

[Don67Satellite]

@Stanton while you offer very passionate replies, you do not know if he has purchased the correct MC at all. He may have bought one with too large of a bore, or possibly without the groove for the pushrod and rubber grommet. You also do not know if he can/would be able to/have the tools for cutting the push rod. Others are just offering suggestions that can help him out.

 

[Don Frelier]

WTF ... guy's got a brand new m/c sitting in front of him and people are suggesting he go buy something else !!! Some people love spending someone else's money !!

You can get a dual master for a 67 for less money than the adapter plate.

 

[Hammer108]

The rod came apart with a little hammering .
All apart and ready to install. Cass from Dr Diff provided links for the MC and MC lines. All came apart except the pass side line from the distribution block. But new line ordered and ready for brakes! Thanks for the advice.

 

[Ron H]

In my case converted a manual to power brake/front disk. There were ample hassles involving making a plate for the firewall mount and machining an adjustable pushrod. My set up was from SSBC a GM setup. The kit-supplied rod was a pos looking like it was made in freshman HS shop class. Anyway, obtaining the proper length for the rod took some time as you’re dealing with its travel on both ends – assuring adequate plunge into the MC, pedal height, and brake light switch contact. Home position need to make sure it isn’t ‘home’ by binding against the light switch; a tidbit of free-play is necessary. At least it is with a booster – though assume it could be same so as not to have any engagement of the MC. Also MC’s are different (bore size) for manual or power brakes...