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Manual transmission install A833 on a 383 plymouth roadrunner

blue69runner

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Today was trying to bolt up the transmission now find that the hole in the crank is not deep enough for the shaft to go in. The motor is rebuilt and my motor guy found me a crank. What would you suggest I do about this. Cut the shaft on the transmission or take the motor back to the engine man. I am frustrated for sure. It is a pain to put the trans on and off and measuring every thing. Appreciate any in put. blue69runner.
 
If the hole isn't deep enough.. does it even have a pilot bushing in it???

Either way, you're cutting 5/8" off that input shaft and chamfering the new end. Pilot bushing or the roller needle bearing for a Dakota.
 
Or don’t cut anything, drill the crank deeper yourself and use the dakota roller bearing.
 
Yes it has the pilot bushing in it. Don't think I could drill the crank with it in the car now. The crank metal is hard.
 
I tried to drill my crank while it was in the car, not fun, got nowhere. I ended up cutting the tip of the input shaft about 1/2". I was wary about cutting the shaft but I spoke with a well-known vendor before I broke out the grinder, they said go ahead, it's not uncommon to have to do it. There's no real concern about weakening it, it's supported by the bushing or bearing so anything forward of that is just along for the ride and not really needed. After you cut it just remember to shape the end so it has the same rounded conical edge because the bottom of the crank hole is spherical.
 
My shop told me my shallow hole cast crank had to come out to drill it and it would not be their usual cheap price. It is std/std and needs only polishing, but I found a steel crank. Internal/external balance is a consideration too.

If a guy ever wanted 100% original, it looks like input shafts are available in new condition and vendors might reproduce some, but they aren't cheap.
 
Lol, way back, my friends dad owned a machine shop. We took a 383, drained the oil, set it's nose in a drill press base, and made it happen. 383's were a dime a dozen then.
In the car, you probably would need a plate to bolt across the block and a good mag base drill.
If it helps.....
Dimensions from a '68 440 auto crank I measured. Note the .890" green area is not the standard bushing diameter. Drill it too deep you'll get into an oil passage. 2.200" should be fine.
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Of course they told you to cut it. The more that get cut, the more replacement input shafts they can sell down the road.

The end is tapered to go in the pilot bushing easily on assembly.
 
I have been in this exact situation. Cut the nose off the A-833 input shaft & use the roller bearing (though pilot bushing would work). I'm running the roller bearing now, but I was using a pilot bushing when I ran into your exact problem... rebuilt motor in the car, trans won't bolt up, find out I've got a non-drilled crank in the motor.

I was able to see witness marks on the transmission input shaft, so I could see exactly what stuck past the pilot bushing. fyi-I was able to install the pilot bushing in the crank when I put the motor together, so I "thought" I was OK...nope. Anyway, I cut the input shaft off right at the edge of the pilot bushing witness mark, then slightly beveled the edge of the shaft (maybe 1/8", just to help it slip into place easier). Worked like a charm & is still working many years later.
 
Thanks for all the story's and info. Just to say we got a rock crusher trans back in the day and was going to install it on a 440. Yes the shaft was too long and we cut it off. It worked fine. Just want to throw my hand's up and say what next sometimes. So close to finishing the car and want to be able to drive it on my birthday in June. So will take the grinder and try cutting the shaft off and taper the end. After all this is not a race car but a driver. Sure it will last me till I can't drive it any more. Or will not be here. :thumbsup:
 
Sometimes you gotta take the easy way out. Seems like a nutty thing to do but if it gets the car on the road then it's worth the exercise.
 
Just find a mag drill and mount it to the flywheel and drill away. Of course you will need to remove the bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate.
 
About 9 8th off the end and will be good and take a little for the end play. Think 10 thou should be plenty for end play but will call the motor guy tomorrow. Will be plenty of shaft left in the bushing so feel comfortable with doing this. The bushing will get filled all the way. Thanks for the input and help. Can't wait to get this car on the road.
 
One other question guy's. Got the four speed in today and grabbed my automatic cross member. I said oh no. After looking at the automatic member see their is one hole for the trans. mount on the bottom and two holes to tighten the nut's to the trans. No can I cut away all the automatic stuff and open the hole in the plate on top to put the trans. mount in the crossmember. That would be a quick fix to my problem. Is their any thing else I should of to the frame. Other than cut out the plate to except the isolator. Or trans. mount. It look's like it will work out. Thanks for any info or ideas.
 
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