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Manual Transmission Installation Advice Needed!

HawkRod

Formerly hsorman
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Cut off some long bolts. Thread them into the bell for guides. The longer the better. If the trans wont slide all the way into the clutch splines you can pry the release fork back a little. (only after the shaft is already through the disc.) This will let the disc float between the flywheel and pressure plate.
Doug
 
Cut off some long bolts. Thread them into the bell for guides. The longer the better. If the trans wont slide all the way into the clutch splines you can pry the release fork back a little. (only after the shaft is already through the disc.) This will let the disc float between the flywheel and pressure plate.
Doug

Thanks Doug.

I already have and use studs to help align the transmission as it is being installed. I have not tried prying on the release fork, since my whole contraption moves quite a bit and I am by myself - I don't think I can operate it while I am installing the transmission.

Hawk
 
From what I read on your build post, everything fits as long as the dowels are removed so it sounds like the dowels are the issue. So I would put the dowels in, bolt on the bell and check your runout again (because you removed the dowels so things have moved). When that's done, torque down the bell. Measure from inside the crank pilot hole to the bell face (A). Measure from the end of the input shaft to the trans face (B). As long as A is equal to or greater than B, bolt on the trans. My guess is the bind is from a slight misalignment in the bearing retainer to bell due to the weight of the trans. Support the tailstock and I bet it slips in a lot easier.
 
Having had a few alcoholic brews, I can remember from years ago that the easiest way was on your back with tail shaft on your knees (empty of fluid!!)and lift her up. Oh wait!!! That was years ago.(full of lube, usually got you a wet,smelly crotch)
 
I remember taking it out my first time ... how heavy can a trans be, right !?!? HOLY **** !!!
 
From what I read on your build post, everything fits as long as the dowels are removed so it sounds like the dowels are the issue. So I would put the dowels in, bolt on the bell and check your runout again (because you removed the dowels so things have moved). When that's done, torque down the bell. Measure from inside the crank pilot hole to the bell face (A). Measure from the end of the input shaft to the trans face (B). As long as A is equal to or greater than B, bolt on the trans. My guess is the bind is from a slight misalignment in the bearing retainer to bell due to the weight of the trans. Support the tailstock and I bet it slips in a lot easier.

Thanks for the thoughts. I just got in from the garage and SUCCESS!!! I pulled off the bellhousing and clutch and then aligned each piece as I went along. When I installed it, it went in fine.
I have had this bellhousing off and on two different engines (both with standard dowels) and measured runout 4 times (and yes, I find it to be a pain in the butt!). Each time, it has been a consistent .007". So this time, I did not recheck it. :eek:
20200328_200909.jpg


Having had a few alcoholic brews, I can remember from years ago that the easiest way was on your back with tail shaft on your knees (empty of fluid!!)and lift her up. Oh wait!!! That was years ago.(full of lube, usually got you a wet,smelly crotch)
I remember taking it out my first time ... how heavy can a trans be, right !?!? HOLY **** !!!

Haha! I have had the same experience in my younger days except mine was a 727, but pretty much the same results!!!

Hawk
 
Well, you already had the new trans input in far enough (< 7.380") and it didn't hang. So the disc is aligned. The release bearing I wouldn't expect be an issue either.
I would remove those studs and try again.
upload_2020-3-28_20-6-13.png


Lol, ya' beat me to the post. Congrats!
 
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