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Master cylinder question

71newp

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HI,
I also posted this question under the "brakes section". Just bought a 76 Cordoba that needs a new master cylinder. I have a Haynes book and a FSM "in the mail", but I would like to get started on this now. Are there any "tricks" to a MC replacement on this car, or is it straight forward? Also I am using PB Blaster to help loosen the nuts, will PB Blaster work for this? Any hints or tricks appreciated.
Thanks again
 
It's easy & straightforward. Bench bleed the MC, then bleed/flush the entire system. Brake fluid should be chsnged periodically.
 
Yup What Wile said..but I can never stress enough...watch the fluid around your paint...have a rag handy.
AL
 
Depending on how long the old master cylinder has been in the car be prepared to replace the brake lines coming from it. The nuts on mine were seized so bad (let the jokes begin) that I wound up cutting the lines and using vice grips to get the proportioning valve loose.
 
Depending on how long the old master cylinder has been in the car be prepared to replace the brake lines coming from it. The nuts on mine were seized so bad (let the jokes begin) that I wound up cutting the lines and using vice grips to get the proportioning valve loose.

The brake lines from the master cylinder look good; However, I haven't tried to loosen them yet. I don't think I'll use PB Blaster on them unless I really have to. I'm kinda afraid that any residual loosening agent might contaminate the new MC.
 
When you pull the MC look into the booster where the MC mounts and make sure if the MC was leaking out the back that there is no old fluid around the rod coming from the booster. If there is clean the area so the fluid doesn't attack the seal around the rod. For the new MC I use the DOT 3 0r 4 silicone fluid. Works great but won't eat the paint and resist the moisture better then the old stuff.
Happy Braking
Wayne
 
Anyone know if a late model, aluminium master cylinder from like a 1987 5th avenue is a direct bolt in? Specifically, would the rod need replaced? I expect standard to metric fitting changes but what about the rod. Car is also 1976 Cordoba!
 
Depending on how long the old master cylinder has been in the car be prepared to replace the brake lines coming from it. The nuts on mine were seized so bad (let the jokes begin) that I wound up cutting the lines and using vice grips to get the proportioning valve loose.
Ok... my nuts were seized so bad once, I talked like Tiny Tim for a week. ( and for you youngsters that don't know who he is, go tip-toe through your google )
 
Anyone know if a late model, aluminium master cylinder from like a 1987 5th avenue is a direct bolt in? Specifically, would the rod need replaced? I expect standard to metric fitting changes but what about the rod. Car is also 1976 Cordoba!

I did this several years ago, it's not a "direct" bolt in because of the 4-bolt vs. 2-bolt mounting but's also not that hard. Just get the booster assembly from a 79 Cordoba and the later model 2-bolt boosters will go right in.

FYI - If you specifically want an aluminum MC you may have to order a few to get one, a lot of the replacements are cast iron.
 
New Master Cylinder in and working GREAT!!!! Thanks to all who responded. Also, a ratcheting box end wrench REALLY helped. The nuts were tough both off and on.
 
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