Max adjustment range on Torsion Bars??

Brakes, Steering & Suspension

  1. nmb0003

    nmb0003 Member

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    Hello all,
    Looking for some advice from those who have adjusted their front ride height and kept stock spindles. Realistically, how much can you safely lower the front suspension with just the adjusting nut?

    I am hesitant about the dropped spindles on the market. Spoke to Firm Feel, they sell them but also said they introduce some negative caster, and they tell me lowering with the T-bars and stock spindles gives you positive caster. Their tech support guy said 1/2-3/4” clearance from bump stops is acceptable with stiffer bars.

    I am not looking for a low rider, but looking to drop my 68 Charger 1-2”. I am putting Hotckiss leaf springs in the back and planning to go with 1.06 or 1.12 bars from Firm Feel. (yes I want a stiffer, sportier ride).

    All input is appreciated!
     
  2. 66 Sat

    66 Sat Well-Known Member

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    I think if you have stiffer bars then 1/2" above the bump stop should be fine. Mine are probably about 3/4" and I only have small diameter, original bars. PST did have some 1.03" dia zero clocked bars that allowed the car to be lowered but they are all sold now, don't know if anymore are available from anywhere else.
    It would depend on the weight of the engine/accessories too I'd imagine, and what type of driving you are doing.
     
  3. nmb0003

    nmb0003 Member

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    Thanks 66 Sat.

    What does “zero clocked” bars mean? does that lower the car but then still around the full range of up/down adjustment? I’m guess stock bar specs are not “zero”?
     
  4. 66 Sat

    66 Sat Well-Known Member

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    Zero clocked means the hexes at the front and back of the torsion bar are in line. Normally the front and back are offset slightly (I think 30 degrees is normal), which means you have to wind the adjuster in a bit before the bar starts to be in torsion. As the bar starts to twist the ride height will rise and when you're at normal ride height the hexes will be roughly in line. With the zero clocked bars, the bar starts to twist earlier, so provides "spring" with the car at a lower ride height. I think that's how it's meant to work anyway. The installation for the zero clocked bars would probably have to be more precise with regards to setting ride height, as it would seem there would be less adjustment. The position of the adjuster blade would have to be closer to ride height when the bar was installed, rather than at full droop as with standard bars.
     
  5. andyf

    andyf Well-Known Member

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    You'll just have to play with it. When you start to mix and match aftermarket parts you end up with a toxic brew which can be very difficult to sort out much less predict. Tires and shocks all have to match what you do with the suspension. If you don't have any experience in this area I'd start by talking with local guys who have modified Mopar cars. Or pick up the B body book I wrote and read it. I covered all of this stuff years ago in the book.
     
  6. nmb0003

    nmb0003 Member

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    Thanks...makes sense...what’s the name of your book?
     
  7. andyf

    andyf Well-Known Member

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  8. YY1

    YY1 Well-Known Member

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    I've done 1 to 2 inches below factory spec ride height with no issues and usually no alignment adjustment necessary.

    Just watch for wear on the inner treads.
     
  9. Larrry B.

    Larrry B. Well-Known Member

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    I've got Hotchkis leaf springs on my car ('69 RR) with FF 1.06 T-Bars, lots of other stuff as well.
    My bars sit about 1" above the bump stops.

    efL8YZI.jpg

    I also have the Hotchkis/Fox adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, they are much stiffer than the Bilsteins I had on previously so maybe I can drop it lower but I don't really want them sitting on the bump stops.
     
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2020
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