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Member who posted on process of restoring/cleaning the yellowing off Overflow bottle?

QuickBpBp

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Tried to search the forum but I remember seeing a process of how a member cleaned his overflow bottle to like new.. Anyone remember that post? Thanks in advance.
 
I remember a youtube video somewhere about it. I'm always trying to go the other way, making a fresh new one look aged!
 
I remember a youtube video somewhere about it. I'm always trying to go the other way, making a fresh new one look aged!
I found one video.. This one it?

 
How much is that H3NSO3 acid?
 
How much is that H3NSO3 acid?
$9lb here... just confused as what is the activator? I would think it's water but have no experience with that acid....
 
He definitely put in something from a bottle as the activator.

You would think it would be sold with the acid if it's necessary.
 
Distilled water is best. You mix it with water, read the comments.


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vQc_C8bYrS0
Stephanie Markey2 years ago
For those who are asking, sulfamic acid can be bought at a hardware big box store icrystal form. It's normally used to clean rust and grout and mortar haze. A 1lb. tub of sulfamic crystals is less than $8. All you do is follow the instructions and dissolve it in water. Plastic itself is non-reactive to acids; that's why containers for acid products are made of plastic (and it's cheaper than glass and won't shatter). Plastic is engineered to be fairly resistant to many solvents, so you're not going to run into trouble with it being chemically damaged unless you start using things like acetone or paint stripper.
 
AvE on you tube made one a few years back. I remembered I clicked like on it. I can't seem to find the link???
 
Last edited:
Distilled water is best. You mix it with water, read the comments.



Stephanie Markey2 years ago
For those who are asking, sulfamic acid can be bought at a hardware big box store icrystal form. It's normally used to clean rust and grout and mortar haze. A 1lb. tub of sulfamic crystals is less than $8. All you do is follow the instructions and dissolve it in water. Plastic itself is non-reactive to acids; that's why containers for acid products are made of plastic (and it's cheaper than glass and won't shatter). Plastic is engineered to be fairly resistant to many solvents, so you're not going to run into trouble with it being chemically damaged unless you start using things like acetone or paint stripper.

I did read that and knew about the water but he specifically says "activator" that is what was confusing...
 
Think that's the one I tried. If you listen to his ingredients he leaves out one. Tried this didn't touch the yellow. Thanks the activator is missing.
 
Think that's the one I tried. If you listen to his ingredients he leaves out one. Tried this didn't touch the yellow. Thanks the activator is missing.
I didn't hear him say anything at all on that video. Just rustling and moving noises. Kind of a sucky video to me. Maybe I missed something? Was he whispering?
 
I did read that and knew about the water but he specifically says "activator" that is what was confusing...
Acids are mixed with water where the H and O are separated and the ions are released. H2 is in pretty much all acids. My chemistry might be a bit dated but I remember that. That's why you add the acid to the water and never the water into the acid, besides splashing, there can be a reaction as the acid disolves or nixes with the water.
 
I'm pretty it's there you'll have listen more than once. He says it in a off hand manner. Bought a pound of that acid, put 3 gallons tap water in a 5 gal. bucket. Sat 3 weeks stirring every few days. NOTHING. 3 cups of baking{slow pore) on a 8ft pole to neutralize acid.
 
I'm pretty it's there you'll have listen more than once. He says it in a off hand manner. Bought a pound of that acid, put 3 gallons tap water in a 5 gal. bucket. Sat 3 weeks stirring every few days. NOTHING. 3 cups of baking{slow pore) on a 8ft pole to neutralize acid.
Tap water could be the issue, the minerals in it react with the acid.
 
I'm pretty it's there you'll have listen more than once. He says it in a off hand manner. Bought a pound of that acid, put 3 gallons tap water in a 5 gal. bucket. Sat 3 weeks stirring every few days. NOTHING. 3 cups of baking{slow pore) on a 8ft pole to neutralize acid.
Also, are you doing a coolant overflow or a windshield washer reservoir?
 
Windshield washer tank. The mixing with tap maybe a problem but zero difference? At 50/51 seconds in upper left corner as he's pouring from bottle it it says acid chemical formula then activator, what's that? What is it he sprays on before 50 seconds. If anyone does this make a video and list a precise process and exactly what ingredients with brand names.
If anyone get it to work I'd try again. I think yellowed washer bottle is way different than coolant bottle.
 
Windshield washer tank. The mixing with tap maybe a problem but zero difference? At 50/51 seconds in upper left corner as he's pouring from bottle it it says acid chemical formula then activator, what's that? What is it he sprays on before 50 seconds. If anyone does this make a video and list a precise process and exactly what ingredients with brand names.
If anyone get it to work I'd try again. I think yellowed washer bottle is way different than coolant bottle.
Yes, that's the point I was getting at. I believe that acid is removing the metalic debris that collects in a surge tank, rather than age yellowing the plastic. Acid will react with metallic substances but not plastic.
 
Being a technical documentation writer and the son of a professional proofreader.....

This kind of presentation drives me absolutely bonkers.
 
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