MOPAR 383 TICKING :( HELP PLEASE

[FrnkNsteen]

Yep. Check specifically for ZDDP levels in ANY oil you choose to use.
"Conventional" doesn't mean what it used to in oils.

Yep,... What he said! I run Valvoline VR1 in my Barracuda, and cheaper Rotella in my old tired straight 6 in the 71 Chev C10. I've read A BUNCH of stories of newer "low zinc" oils causing lobes to be wiped off cams. I run standard Valvoline in the newer Suburban and F-150, but in the older motors,.... you have to run the higher zinc oils.

 

[moparedtn]

Yep,... What he said! I run Valvoline VR1 in my Barracuda, and cheaper Rotella in my old tired straight 6 in the 71 Chev C10. I've read A BUNCH of stories of newer "low zinc" oils causing lobes to be wiped off cams. I run standard Valvoline in the newer Suburban and F-150, but in the older motors,.... you have to run the higher zinc oils.

I know older conventional wisdom was that Rotella had the goods for older engines - but what a lot of folks don't realize is that Shell changed the formula
for a lot of their Rotella oils in 2008 just like other makers did.
When zinc was determined to be a detriment to catalytic converters, the standards for conventional oils changed then.
There may still be some formulations of Rotella out there with the old levels of ZDDP and phosphorus out there.
I'm saying CHECK FIRST on ANY oil you're contemplating using if you have a flat tappet cam engine.

 

[tonysrt]

The zinc only prevents cam to lifter wear. It won't effect tick if it's a bad lifter. But it is wise to use the high zinc oil anyway to prevent cam wear.