• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Mopar M-1 Intake. ** Speed secrets.! **

67coronetman

Well-Known Member
Local time
10:07 PM
Joined
Sep 5, 2008
Messages
1,655
Reaction score
346
Location
Blount Co
I have a Mopar M-1 Intake square bore for a 440 has anyone out here done port work & how did it help your car & do you have pictures of what you did also has anyone used the so-called Mopar speed secrets on this intake where you put some dividers inside to help build power & fuel use better.!

Thanks for any help.
 
i thought this was a place to help each other. if I know of a way to make power I would help out my fellow moparites. this is for the love of the car and the community to which we belong. Sorry but I have not found any use in the mopar port kits, be they intake or head templates. the best of luck in your effort:)
 
WOW.! ok well i hope you have a great weekend.!







I'm done.

Does anyone see the dark humor in this?

Some of us spend 10's of thousands of dollars to figure this stuff out and all I see on these forums are, "Gee mister, will you give it to me for FREE."

This one ego that's no longer in need of stroking. BYE
 
I agree with you i thought we where here to help each other to.! :)





i thought this was a place to help each other. if I know of a way to make power I would help out my fellow moparites. this is for the love of the car and the community to which we belong. Sorry but I have not found any use in the mopar port kits, be they intake or head templates. the best of luck in your effort:)
 
The problem is loosing money on sharing. Doing it wrong and then charging more to correct it. Also, the modifier "THINKS" they did it right and spreads the "Wrong" around.

The way to modify the intake is to create another intake out of it and mimic another's intake into the plenum while re-shaping the dividers at the runners entrance while equalizing the amount drawn through each runner.

Sound easy?

The gain on such MOD's only shows itself on high HP engines. And I am not talking about the poultry crap built on 99% of the threads here. Think serious race engine.

Until you reach this level, leave the intake alone. A stock M1 single plane (small block) is capable of over 550 hp without issue or in need of a mod. Making the MOD results in little return.
 
Ok fair enough well i have a big block 440 bored .040 over with Indy SR heads that have had a mild port work that flow 335.5 @ 770 lift & 1.6 rocker arms stock crank & rods oil mods to the motor with TTI headers 2" into 2 1/8 " a comp cam solid lift cam that is 284/292 & 540/559 and i am running a stock untouched M-1 Intake. & its has a 4-speed in it.!

** I have tried the torker II & the Eddy rpm intake & a TM-7 the torker II & Eddy rpm intake where port matched but none of those in my opinion had the pure tq pick up like the M-1 has.!

** Side note the motor was dynoed with the Eddy rpm intake about two years ago & it made 580 hp & 570 tq.








The problem is loosing money on sharing. Doing it wrong and then charging more to correct it. Also, the modifier "THINKS" they did it right and spreads the "Wrong" around.

The way to modify the intake is to create another intake out of it and mimic another's intake into the plenum while re-shaping the dividers at the runners entrance while equalizing the amount drawn through each runner.

Sound easy?

The gain on such MOD's only shows itself on high HP engines. And I am not talking about the poultry crap built on 99% of the threads here. Think serious race engine.

Until you reach this level, leave the intake alone. A stock M1 single plane (small block) is capable of over 550 hp without issue or in need of a mod. Making the MOD results in little return.
 
If it were me, I would just match the intake and heads up as closely as you can. Also, I wouldn't go to far back into the ports when cutting. Just try to make it as smooth as you can and the starting point from inside the runners the same.
I agree that the extra dividers, and other mods are probably ones that show minimal gains, and unless your looking for that last little horse power it's probably not worth the expense and time.
IQ52,,,, What the heck????
 
I'm done.

Does anyone see the dark humor in this?

Some of us spend 10's of thousands of dollars to figure this stuff out and all I see on these forums are, "Gee mister, will you give it to me for FREE."

This one ego that's no longer in need of stroking. BYE

Good Riddance, a$$hole. maybe you need to stroke somethin else.

Sorry Coronetman, i HATE people like that. why even bother posting? Jeez!

i wish i was more constructive for ya. good luck!

sounds like a sweet *** mill btw!
 
The M1 is a pretty decent intake right out of the box. Port matching is true with any intake and make sure the carb fits right too. A key to making and progressing with mods is to keep notes on everything you do and pics ain't a bad idea either.
 
If I read the original question correctly, you were asking about the divider mods that Mopar recommended for the M1 intake several years ago. If I recall correctly, the divider recommended for the intake floor was only for the B engine single plane M1, not the RB engine. I have the old Direct Connection article somewhere in my stash if you need me to find it.
 
Yes yes yes, the engines manual has some good info on the plenum area for the intakes.

I do not know if dividing the intake with a plate is what you want. It is a cheap try though. IIRC, the MoPar manual will show pictures and give dimensions to install dam's, mill a part etc... where it would be of most help. They do this in the small block book I have for there intakes as well as Offenhauser and Edelbrock intakes for best performance in a given arena. (Race condition like Drag engine engine single planes, Road race dual plane.)

Hugesengines does plenum mods as well as carb pad area mods for use with Holley carb's. They basically square the spreadbore pad. The inside of the plenum is IIRC, also reworked. But what is done exactly, I do not know.
 
I bought one off a guy that had it on a race motor. Said it came off a 10sec. 440 motor. It appears that they just port matched and blended the runners and knife edged the top of the runner inside the pleum, plus they also had a plate welded to the bottom to a. Get rid of needing a valley tray b. To help deflect heat and get a cooler charge. Hope this helps.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top