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MSD READY TO RUN DISTRIBUTOR

Bill Monk

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Anybody running one of these? What springs are you using for the mechanical advance? I have a basically stock 440 6bbl. Based on MSDs chart, using a light silver and light blue spring would bring all mechanical advance in by a little over 3000 rpm which sounds right but I haven't bought one yet, I'm just kicking tires.
 
Anybody running one of these? What springs are you using for the mechanical advance? I have a basically stock 440 6bbl. Based on MSDs chart, using a light silver and light blue spring would bring all mechanical advance in by a little over 3000 rpm which sounds right but I haven't bought one yet, I'm just kicking tires.

I run Firecore's in both my cars. They come with spring kits, lockouts and either a black or tan cap. You can also get the tower style cap or plug in for the wires. Bearings top and bottom. Same as MSD, half the price and you can buy the pickup and cap at your local Chrysler dealership.
 
No Pictures what is it!
In the title, but it's an MSD ready to run distributor.
msd-8387_w.jpg
 
I run Firecore's in both my cars. They come with spring kits, lockouts and either a black or tan cap. You can also get the tower style cap or plug in for the wires. Bearings top and bottom. Same as MSD, half the price and you can buy the pickup and cap at your local Chrysler dealership.
I looked into these, they offer a replacement style distributor as well and I just bought a Chrome Ignition box so I will likely go with that. $165 beats $416!
 
Bought that same MSD. Big piece of crap. Module was bad. I installed it, didn't fire, returned it, got full refund and bought a distributor from 4secondsflat.
 
Bought that same MSD. Big piece of crap. Module was bad. I installed it, didn't fire, returned it, got full refund and bought a distributor from 4secondsflat.
I went with the 4secondsflat as well. These guys really have their act together and very reasonable for what you get. Anybody looking for ignition should check these guys out before you buy.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ignition.html
 
Anybody running one of these? What springs are you using for the mechanical advance? I have a basically stock 440 6bbl. Based on MSDs chart, using a light silver and light blue spring would bring all mechanical advance in by a little over 3000 rpm which sounds right but I haven't bought one yet, I'm just kicking tires.
I have an all mechanical advance on my unit from MSD with no vacuum at all. On mine the light blue and light silver springs bring the timing all in by 2500, the unit comes from the factory with the blue 21 degree advance stop bushing. The curve can be changed with springs of course and the amount of advance off of initial is determined by the bushing. Hope this is informative. And by the way, MSD is the balls....every one I know uses them and they are outstanding ignitions systems.
image.png image.png image.png
 
If you want a faster advance curve, there are aftermarkets springs that are lighter than the MSD light silver.
However, I'm not sure what's up with MSD, even before they were bought by Holley. My older MSD distributors (10 years +) work great including one RTR with springs and one RTR E-Curve and one non-RTR's. Within the last 5 years I purchased two new MSD's (not RTR's) that had some blatant quality control issues.
 
I have the RTR pictured above and haven't had any issues with it. I found it easy to work with. It's been awhile - not sure of the springs I have in it but I didn't change what it came with for my 440 Six Pack.
 
The electronics portion are now made in China. The housing is made in Texas.
 
The electronics portion are now made in China. The housing is made in Texas.
The problems I had were hard part issues. One was a 8546 BB distributor. The end of the shaft was not machined properly. Regardless of the oil pump drive shaft tested (all OEM Mopar), the tip would jam into the grove and it was hard to separate them even if joined by hand outside of the engine. Easy fix but it should have been right from the factory. The other was a 8534 small block. That particular model is not completely aluminum. The cap base is a black plastic composite of some sort. The cap would not set flush on the base. It rocked and you could see the gap at the base. We tried a new spare cap and the results were the same. Took it back back and checked the new one before leaving the store. It was the same so I just got a refund. Put the raggedy 15+ year old 8534 back in. It was obvious by looking that the plastic bases were different materials.
 
How'd you wite that in around your ballast resistor? I just installed one and have ZERO spark. I have 12v at the coil but that is it
 
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