Need Fuel Sender help 1966 Satellite

[RJS]

I posted a want ad in the want section but really could use some help.

I didn't have a tank/sender or the 2 lower tubes when I bought my car, it had a fuel cell.

I bought a new:
Spectra Premium tank (CR14),
two reproduction lower tubes and a new reproduction fuel sender.
The fuel sender was from Rock Auto because my car has a 1/2" line and they listed one at a great price.
Liland-Global (SUDG-13)

With the 3" exhaust and tailpipes I don't want to ever take this tank back out of the car so I come here for some help!!!!!

The one thing I forgot to do was when tank was sitting out of car I should have put the sender into it and looked into the fill hole to see how close the sender came to tank floor.
Since I've done all the testing of my gauge and this sender and am satisfied with my findings It has to be the shape of the pickup causing my readings.

So if you have an old one laying around please chime in.


Thanks in Advance
Ron


So can anyone post some pictures of a factory sender and measurements maybe??

 

[Jerry Hall]

The crappy reproduction senders have to be reformed to fit the tank correctly. It takes a good tubing bender and test tank for me. Even doing this the resistor on the reproductions are linear and the originals were not. This means you can get them to read full and empty, but the in between will be off. I hope the pictures help. Being over 50% of my cars are 66-67 I had to do something to make the reproduction crap better.

 

[RJS]

WOW Jerry you always have the goods!!!
Can you possibly take measurements on one of those senders?
I know about the linear and non and how the in between readings will be off.

Maybe sit one down like you have those 4 and measure how far back it goes before it bends up with a measurement at the rear most of how high from the table?

Thanks Ron

 

[Jerry Hall]

Three of those in the pictures were original. All the originals are slightly different, but the reproduction is way off. Look at the first bend where the resistor sits, you will make the most improvement by increasing that bend. Notice in the picture how the filter sock is sitting almost an inch higher on the original as compared the reproduction in front of it. After the reproduction is made to look like an original then I place it in the tank for final tweaks.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I will get a few measurements tomorrow or over the weekend and get back to you.

 

[RJS]

Measurements would be great or if you want to sell me one of the old ones I can use for reference.
Ron

 

[Jerry Hall]

I lift the new sender so that the mating surface to the tank is at the same angle as the old senders. On this new sender it raised the back of the sender 7/8".

This means you have to bend the sender at an angle to make it 7/8" lower at the other end. Notice the block under the rear of the sender that gives it the same angle as the tank flange. This makes it so that you have bend it before the resistor housing the thickness of that block. Upon doing this when you put the sender in the tank it only takes minor tweaking to make the filter sock lay on the bottom of the tank. Sometimes the bend in area of the filter needs to be a little less.

 

[RJS]

So I would have to put 7/8" more bend in before resistor to make it lower at the other end after the resistor. What does that bend do to the very end of tube with sock?
I love to buy one of your old units.
Ron

 

[Jerry Hall]

You will more than likely have take out a little of the last bend before the filter sock. What is happening is if nothing is done the float is not going to the bottom on a empty tank. It takes 5-7 gallons to move the float. Also the float is hitting the top of the tank when the resistor is only letting the gauge read somewhere around 3/4 full. If the tubing is bent right the swing arm doesn't need to be bent.

 

[Jerry Hall]

We have a open PM. I also posted a phone number.