Need help - oil analysis shows coolant in oil

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX
I searched and found many threads that suggest head gaskets on RB engines don't often fail, but since I received an oil analysis that shows a slight amount of coolant in the oil, I pulled the heads. Head gaskets and heads look fine. I don't see any obvious cracks in the block, but I'm guessing a cracked block is be difficult to detect.

The car was running and driving normal, no white smoke, but there is oil residue in the coolant overflow tank, which was not there before. I only drove the car ~100 miles in the last month after being parked for a year. The only thing I noticed is the #8 piston was partially clean on the top surface. I'm guessing this points to a problem in cylinder 8. Any recommendations about what to do next are appreciated.

cyliders 1.jpg


cyliders 2.jpg
 
Last edited:

69Bee

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
10:14 AM
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
3,805
Reaction score
3,496
Location
Whetstone, AZ
The leak in on #8 cyl. You will notice that there is a lack of gasket impression on the block above the cylinder and coolant is entering the cylinder from the upper coolant hole between cyl 6 & 8. When the engine is at temp, the gasket seals, but as the engine cools, the gasket and head contracts creating a path for the coolant to enter the cylinder. The block should be squared, and heads could use a surfacing also. Another thing I see is that it looks like the engine has overheated (crushing the gasket). it also looks like the top row of head bolts on the driver side were loose due to the lack of a gasket impression not to mention the bolts were loose around cylinder 8, likely contributing to the problem.
 

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX

@69Bee - Thanks for your analysis and the observation about the lack of gasket impression. The engine has overheated a few times for different reasons. The attached pics show more evidence of what you describe. Head bolts were all torqued requiring what seemed to be the same amount of force to break them loose.​

I've had the car for 17 years and never needed to open the motor. I have a set of 440Source Stealth heads and new bolts. I'll put it back together and hope for the best.​


cylider 8 block side.jpg


cylider 8 head side.jpg


side.1++.jpg
 
Last edited:

Michael_

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
7:14 PM
Joined
Jan 31, 2019
Messages
1,295
Reaction score
1,226
Location
Germany
The block should be squared

I have a set of 440Source Stealth heads and new bolts. I'll put it back together had hope for the best.

I'm sure no expert but i think what @69Bee said is a good idea.
At least if it was mine i wouldn't want to just hope for the best and then possibly have to pull the engine again and do it all over.
I would want to be sure the surface from the block is straight before putting it back together.
 

493 Mike

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
1:14 PM
Joined
Dec 25, 2011
Messages
4,328
Reaction score
4,831
Location
White Cloud, MI
Find, rent, steal a straight edge and check the surfaces.
Mike
 

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX
I'm sure no expert but i think what @69Bee said is a good idea.
At least if it was mine i wouldn't want to just hope for the best and then possibly have to pull the engine again and do it all over.
I would want to be sure the surface from the block is straight before putting it back together.
Totally agree. If the motor was already out of the car, I’d get the block surfaced and do a full rebuild. Given the motor is in the car, I can have it all back together in a few hours and back on the road. I can always pull it and rebuild if there is a problem.
 
Last edited:

QOTHL

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
1:14 PM
Joined
Sep 13, 2017
Messages
7,087
Reaction score
8,196
Location
Planet Mopar
The leak in on #8 cyl. You will notice that there is a lack of gasket impression on the block above the cylinder and coolant is entering the cylinder from the upper coolant hole between cyl 6 & 8. When the engine is at temp, the gasket seals, but as the engine cools, the gasket and head contracts creating a path for the coolant to enter the cylinder. The block should be squared, and heads could use a surfacing also. Another thing I see is that it looks like the engine has overheated (crushing the gasket). it also looks like the top row of head bolts on the driver side were loose due to the lack of a gasket impression not to mention the bolts were loose around cylinder 8, likely contributing to the problem.
Glad I looked - that's awesome!
 

OKDart

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
533
Reaction score
520
Location
Oklahoma
Be sure and chase the threads in the block for the head bolts with a bottoming tap before you put it together.
 

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX
Be sure and chase the threads in the block for the head bolts with a bottoming tap before you put it together.
Thanks for the tip. Just trying to learn...why do the threads need to be chased?
 

451Mopar

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:14 AM
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
3,201
Reaction score
2,503
Location
Aurora, CO
As mentioned use a straight edge to check the block and heads are flat. Chase / clean the head bolt holes to make sure the bolts torque correctly.
I don't think the bolt would be too long to bottom out unless the bolt holes have junk in the bottom of them? When in doubt, mockup the heads on the block and make sure the bolts run all the way down with little effort without the bolt washers (could even leave out the head gasket too.) That way when you add the gasket and bolt washer you know nothing is messing up your torque reading.
I would just get the Fel-Pro 260-1001 gasket set and use the included 8519PT1 head gaskets.
Fel-Pro 260-1001 Fel-Pro Engine Gasket Kits | Summit Racing
You will still need an intake valley tray/gasket.
Fel-Pro MS96000 Fel-Pro Valley Pan Gaskets | Summit Racing
I use the ARP Ultra Torque lube on the bolts, But is is not cheap.
The 1 oz packet is $5
ARP 100-9913 ARP Ultra Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant | Summit Racing
1/2 pint (8oz) is $20 ($2.50/oz)
ARP 100-9910 ARP Ultra Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant | Summit Racing
1 Pint (16 oz) is $29 ($1.81/oz)
ARP 100-9911 ARP Ultra Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant | Summit Racing
 

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX
Awesome info and advice. Thanks for the links. Much appreciated.
 
Last edited:

4406bbl

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
758
Reaction score
770
Location
nebraska
Clean the threads, screw bolts in by hand to the bottom and measure how high they are. I just had a block where a few were not tapped all the way down.
 

65 Coronet Post

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
12:14 PM
Joined
Aug 7, 2022
Messages
12
Reaction score
24
Location
TX
Appreciate all the help and advice. Back together and running better than ever with 440Source Stealth heads.

engine 08.26.22 6.jpg
 
Last edited:

Top