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Need help on hood repair

  • Thread starter Deleted member 214
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Deleted member 214

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My hood always sounded tinny when closing. A buddy pointed out that the top sheet metal wasn't glued down to the bracing underneath. This was just after a fresh paint job, of course. There isn't a vise grip made that is long enough to pinch them together. How the heck can I glue the hood top to the bracing? For that matter, what kind of adhesive do I use?:confused:
 
Companies like 3M or Fusor make an expandable foam that duplicates the factory material and allows the hood to flex a little while solving the tinny issue you are experiencing. Do not use a solid adhesive like seam sealer/silicone/urethane! The problem you face however is it can be messy especially seeing you have already refinished the underside of the hood.
 
UH OH.....I used seam sealer in my hood because that's what looked like was there. The gaps are pretty big and I didn't think it would be an issue. I didn't clamp it; I just bridged the gap as it was.
 
I used some 3m window caulk at various spots, worked real well.
 
maybe you could set a thick quilt or packing pad on the floor and set the hood upside down on it and glue it and set a bucket of concrete on it with a pad on it on top of the bottom of the hood
 
If the hood skin looks good, meaning the sheetmetal appears straight I wouldn't clamp anything, likely the hood was bumped or distorted at some point that caused the delamination of the bracing. My warning about seam sealer stems from seeing the results of too rigid a material being used that doesn't allow the hood skin to expand/contract at a slightly different rate than the bracing. In some rare instances this can cause the panel to appear wavy, especially on dark colours. All manufacturers use expandable flexible foam for hood and roof braces I believe for this very reason, seam sealer is cheaper and easier to use so why would they choose the more expensive route? If you have exsisting foam still intact you could probably get away with a little seam sealer to rebond the area, just be wary of non-factory areas.

If the bracing is a fair distance away, say 1/4+ inches, a plastic dead-blow hammer may be used to gently bump the bracing towards the skin...not for the faint of heart if your hood doesn't require refinishing...this has worked for me on many repairs. Good luck!
 
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I am swapping my hood webbing and I have a pick of the glue spots if you want to try and match them. i don't know about expanding, but the "glue" i took off was hard as a rock and came off with a chisel, so if it was flexible, it sure wasn't now.

Here are some pics of what i go going so far. I can take more if you need the webbing detail.

Note: Satellite webbing does NOT match RR webbing, BUT satellite webbing CAN be converted to RR webbing if you measure and cut correctly.

Randy

IMG_2202-web.jpg


IMG_2205-web.jpg
 
42 years of heat has dried the original material as hard as a rock for sure...my 66 is the same. The expandable foam material I am refering to gets around this issue!
 
X2 with you 66. I work at the factory and we have used a closed-cell foam [non-absorbant] that resembles the black pipe foam used to insulate your water lines. This is activated by the baking process in the paint shop, and is usually called an anti-flutter adhesive. It becomes firm, but not hard. I agree with 66 on the product he recommended.
 
It is refered to as scotts74birds mentioned in the aftermarket as anti flutter foam, pillar foam or NVH foam. The old stuff on our 60's cars I believe was a high density rubber foam at one time in its life...
 
engines through heat and metal expands and shrinks due to this heat this is the reason for the (flexible) glue and not to use rtv or any other hard setting glue as stated before the sheet metal needs some flexability against the framing or webbing whatever you want to call it. with out this flexibility it is likely but not gaurenteed your hood will end up looking wavy a little down the road
 
engines through heat and metal expands and shrinks due to this heat this is the reason for the (flexible) glue and not to use rtv or any other hard setting glue as stated before the sheet metal needs some flexability against the framing or webbing whatever you want to call it. with out this flexibility it is likely but not gaurenteed your hood will end up looking wavy a little down the road

Zactly...
 
From all this very good advice, I plan to use:

3M Duramix #4274 NVH Damping material.

Pretty darn expensive, but it appears to be the "right tool for the job".

I will give feedback on how effective it it when I am done. :sixpack:

Randy
 
Good stuff, runny and messy before it expands, so be prepared...get a couple extra tips as well, the material sets up rather quick and once you feel resistance in the trigger stop, remove the old tip, purge the cartridge and install a new tip or you risk blowing the material out the backside of the pistons...
 
Fusor has a product called 121/124 that works good for this also.It is runny until it starts to expand and set in 3-6 seconds,so lay down some paper under the job.
 
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