Need help with power window conversion on 66 Coronet

[Mopar4Speed]

Hi so i've been researching on converting my 66 coronet to power windows. I read a post by 1 Wild R/T stating you can get c body power window regulators and swap on the stock b body lift arm and have it work. I do have a question about how to clock the arm relative to the motor. Second question is regarding the mounting of the motor plate. It seems to be a slightly different pattern than the manual crank (the one hole is offset and not in the middle). Do i have to drill a hole for the 3rd hole? I did end up buying a set of regulators for the doors. The rear quarters have me confused because I've read that the 66 has the mechanism riveted to the window and that it is different from the 67. The 66 parts book shows the illustration of the 66 mounting plate completely different from the ones I see for sale online. So I'm wondering if the book is wrong that note.

 

[Mopar4Speed]

This is a 66 mechanism according to the seller. Is the motor mount the same as the front door? Because i'd like to swap all 4 windows to power and then i can just use the same c body rear window mount (assuming its the same) with my lift arms? Is that right?

 

[YY1]

 

[Dennis H]

Put a1electric life in my 69 years ago. Came with regulators. Plug and play per installer. Reliable for over 25 years.

 

[Dave6T4]

I switched my 1967 Coronet R/T over to power windows 35 years ago, so I can not remember all the specifics. I do know I used front door regulators from a Chrysler. I had to shorten the arm by cutting it, and overlaying it on the arm stub the amount it had to be shortened, and welding it up. At the same time, I replaced all the clear glass from my 1967 R/T with tinted glass from a 1966 Satellite. Although the glass is mounted differently to the risers, the glass and riser assembly is completely interchangeable between the 2 years. Once you install new window fuzzy's, the window tracks have to be carefully adjusted for minimum mechanical drag to allow the windows to raise and lower smoothly. I found this to be the hardest part of the conversion. Any excessive drag will cause the window to stop. The electric motors are thermally protected, so holding the button in hopes of forcing the window to move will only shut the motor off. Having done my conversion, I swore (a lot) that I would never do another. I wish you good luck with your project.
Dave

 

[1 Wild R/T]

There are right hand and left hand plates... If the third hole doesn't line up it's possible you are using the wrong plate... Or perhaps 66 is different, I've mostly converted 68-70 B bodies but I've sourced donor part from mostly later model (late 80's) stuff... The plate, motor & gear stay together, and on everything I've done the bolts all line right up...

 

[YY1]

I know M body cars have the motor and mount swapped left to right.

I've heard some C body cars are this way, too.

 

[Mopar4Speed]

There are right hand and left hand plates... If the third hole doesn't line up it's possible you are using the wrong plate... Or perhaps 66 is different, I've mostly converted 68-70 B bodies but I've sourced donor part from mostly later model (late 80's) stuff... The plate, motor & gear stay together, and on everything I've done the bolts all line right up...

I havent tried to install it yet. According to aftermarket regulators all say 66-70 is the same for b bodies, charger being the exception. That pic on the right is supposedly a 67 b body mechanism. My c body one looks like it has the same bracket. So does the third hole mount elsewhere than the manual crank?

 

[Mopar4Speed]

66 and 69 (new repro) pics show the same bolt spacing and setup.. does anyone have a pic of a factory power window inner skin?

 

[Mopar4Speed]

I switched my 1967 Coronet R/T over to power windows 35 years ago, so I can not remember all the specifics. I do know I used front door regulators from a Chrysler. I had to shorten the arm by cutting it, and overlaying it on the arm stub the amount it had to be shortened, and welding it up. At the same time, I replaced all the clear glass from my 1967 R/T with tinted glass from a 1966 Satellite. Although the glass is mounted differently to the risers, the glass and riser assembly is completely interchangeable between the 2 years. Once you install new window fuzzy's, the window tracks have to be carefully adjusted for minimum mechanical drag to allow the windows to raise and lower smoothly. I found this to be the hardest part of the conversion. Any excessive drag will cause the window to stop. The electric motors are thermally protected, so holding the button in hopes of forcing the window to move will only shut the motor off. Having done my conversion, I swore (a lot) that I would never do another. I wish you good luck with your project.
Dave

Do you recall having to drill a hole for the mount?

 

[Mopar4Speed]

Put a1electric life in my 69 years ago. Came with regulators. Plug and play per installer. Reliable for over 25 years.

Ive heard conflicting things about them, one was being slow

 

[YY1]

Your manual crank spring is in the area where the PW motor mount location is.

 

[Mopar4Speed]

Your manual crank spring is in the area where the PW motor mount location is.

Ok but do you know where the 3rd bolt goes?

 

[YY1]

You can not mount that motor on that part.

At least I can't see a way to do it.

Those appear to be the parts that are different.

Additionally, the part in pic 1 looks to be stamped.

The part in pic 2 appears to be cast.

 

[Dave6T4]

Do you recall having to drill a hole for the mount?

Sorry; I can't recall. 35 years ago. At my advanced age, I can't remember some of the $hit that happened yesterday! LOL.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

You can not mount that motor on that part. Who's trying too?

At least I can't see a way to do it.

Those appear to be the parts that are different.

Additionally, the part in pic 1 looks to be stamped.

The part in pic 2 appears to be cast. Both plates are stamped...
The plan is to take apart both the manual regulator & the power regulator... Keep the motor/gear/plate & center pin from the power assy
From the manual regulator you keep the arm....
You install the arm on the power gear at the same angle it was previously mounted to the manual crank gear...

The bolt hole is usually already be in the sheetmetal.. There is no power window only inner panel...

 

[Mopar4Speed]

You can not mount that motor on that part. Who's trying too?

At least I can't see a way to do it.

Those appear to be the parts that are different.

Additionally, the part in pic 1 looks to be stamped.

The part in pic 2 appears to be cast. Both plates are stamped...
The plan is to take apart both the manual regulator & the power regulator... Keep the motor/gear/plate & center pin from the power assy
From the manual regulator you keep the arm....
You install the arm on the power gear at the same angle it was previously mounted to the manual crank gear...

The bolt hole is usually already be in the sheetmetal.. There is no power window only inner panel...

Ok i'll have to mock it up and see. Im still trying to figure out the rears because i want to get it done all at once

 

[Mopar4Speed]

The c body bases looks just like the factory b body ones its just my panel doesnt have a hole

 

[YY1]

 

[Mopar4Speed]

I figured it out. 3 holes need to be drilled. They are already marked with dimples from the factory