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Need help with valley pan and intake leak

NWA Super Bee

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Mar 7, 2019
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Location
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Okay guys, there are zero videos on YouTube for installing a valley pan and intake properly on a 400 big block, and there are so many mixed theories on how it’s done on this site.

I just installed a new performer rpm intake with a new valley pan and have a leak at the back of both sides of the intake. My process was, skim the entire surface of the heads with right stuff ultra black. Added some extra in the corners. Lay valley pan down. Spray valley pan with copper sealant, then lay gasket on intake. Sprayed other side of gasket and then installed intake. I let it sit for 24 hours before I started the engine. Torqued all bolts to specs.

Here’s my question, I keep seeing guys say “no gaskets just rtv” does that mean no valley pan gaskets AND no intake gaskets.

Can anyone recommend a good gasket? I used the edelbrock gaskets that came with the intake and that was a failure.

Any good tutorials for this process, it’s so much different than small blocks because the valley pan is ridiculous.

Thanks!
 
From what I understand the gaskets are usually used with alum aftermarket intakes. For decades on stock intakes I just used the valley pan only, no extra gaskets. For my most recent build i used ultra black on both sides of the valley pan and front and rear retainer bars. The car runs great, no leaks, no issues.
 
Here is how Dave (me) does it...
1/8" bead across the front and rear rails, then a larger bead in the 4 corners. I spray copper coat on the intake port area on both sides of the valley pan. I usually also spray the intake ports also, and give it a few moments to tack up. I then put the valley pan down, then the end plates, and snug the bolts down. Then put the intake down, and start the four corner bolts with oil on the threads. Then I apply ARP Teflon thread sealer to the rest of the bolts and get them started. I then spin them all down, and follow the torque procedure for the intake from Edelbrock. The last thing I do is to tighten the end rail bolts.
 

Here's a pretty good vid. FF to about 8 minutes in.
 
I have never used anything but RTV on the valley pan and NO gaskets whether it is a stock intake or aftermarket. I bead the RTV a little so it seals anything the pan does not. First the bottom of the pan and then lay it down, then on the intake and lay it down on the pan. And yes a little extra in the corners atop the galley. Follow the torque procedure. Wait to fire up so the intake does not suck in wet RTV and cause a leak. Make sure your PVC valve is working.

I always use Permatex High Temp Red.

I can only guess how many times I have done this. 30? I have never had a problem.

Don't ask me about my record on leak free header bolts.
 
I use jb weld ultra gray gasket sealer. a little all the way around the ports and the rails on the block. a little around the ports on the valley pan. a little around the ports on the manifold, drop pan on , drop intake on, torque bolts, tighten down the rails. install carb and related components, fire it up and drive. I do this at least 3 times a year switching intakes and they never leak.
 
You guys all rock. I’m tearing mine off this weekend and going strictly RTV. Is the Right Stuff ultra black good enough?
 
Personally, I don't like any of the rubbery stuff. I use Permatex Ultra Grey, and dries stiff. The rubbery RTV seems to just peel off when rubbed enough, but the ultra grey needs to be scraped.
 
Have the heads been shaved? Headgasket thickness stock?
Ditch the RTV.
 
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