Need to touch up engine bay, what are my options?

[funknut]

As part of my resto/refurb project my engine bay is in need of some TLC. I welded up some holes in the engine bay and firewall and want to touch up these areas with body color. I'm not going for perfect, and don't want to repaint the whole engine bay right now, I just don't want it to be an eyesore.

I have never done any automotive painting before, but I'm not afraid to learn. Having said that, I'm probably not the type to do a massive amount of practice or test sprays, so I'm looking for a somewhat straightforward (idiot-proof) solution.

I have a good size air compressor, but I don't know how dry the air is. I have an inline cartridge filter/dryer setup, but no idea how effective it is. It's pretty humid here this time of year.

My welds are not awesome, so I will need to hit it with some glazing putty, primer and color. I did spray some etch primer on parts of the firewall that I welded up last year just to keep the rust away. I've read I'll need to prime over the etch primer first before filler?

The car was sprayed with Deltron DBU. I have no idea how old this paint is, but I'm guessing 15+ years old. I'd guess there's about 1 cup of color left. I also see that DBU is no longer made, so what would you all recommend as an alternative?

So, I'm looking for a low-volume way to cover up the mess I've made.

I'm not completely opposed to taking it to a shop to get painted, but I figure I can fumble my way through this, learn a few things along the way and eventually get a satisfactory result.

Based on the above, what do you suggest is the best way to go about it? I'm happy to try it the traditional way with 2-part paints and a detail gun. I've also seen that aerosols have come a long way and you can get 2k paints and primers in spray cans.

Also, there seem to be 2 zillion glazing putty alternatives. People seem to really like Evercoat, so I was looking at EverGold or their Polyester Glazing Putty. EverGold says it can be used over cured 2k primer whereas the Polyester Glazing Putty only mentions cured OEM paint.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[tnfastback]

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[66 Sat]

Have you got a photo of the engine bay to show the current condition?

 

[69L48Z27]

^^^^ Exactly. What are you dealing with.

I would do all the body work, cover with sealer.

I would take your color to a PPG jobber and match it to a single stage. Take as much apart as you can and then tin foil and mask the rest. Spray away.

 

[Ranger16]

I'll probably get beat up for this, but based on what you said in the first two paragraphs of post #1, why not just use a rattle can?

 

[funknut]

Thanks guys. Really just a few dozen spots from quarter-sized to the hole for the AC blower. Still working on getting the holes closed up but you'll get the idea.

I'm not opposed to a rattle can if it will be reasonably durable and blend somewhat well. At some point in the future the car will need a paint job, but I need something good enough that will last several years.

The paint isn't in bad shape, or wasn't until I started poking at it. It's just dusty from all the grinding. The only things left in the engine bay are the hydroboost, brake MC and brake lines and a few misc. odds and ends that I could have out pretty quickly.

 

[69L48Z27]

I would paint the entire thing at this point. No way you’ll spot that in and not make it look worse IMO.

 

[1967coronet]

At the point your at , if your repaint is going back to the same color take the time and do it right.
feather all those areas with 320 and scuff the rest of the bay. prime bare areas after removing the rest of the hardware.
get some single stage mixed and have at it.

 

[funknut]

Ok thanks for the advice I’ll plan to do the whole thing, then.

Any advice on filler/putty? Will some basic Evercoat glaze work or am I overthinking it?

 

[myk r sanchez]

At the point your at , if your repaint is going back to the same color take the time and do it right.
feather all those areas with 320 and scuff the rest of the bay. prime bare areas after removing the rest of the hardware.
get some single stage mixed and have at it.

What does "feathering " mean, and what grit would you use to scuff the rest of the bay?

 

[66 Sat]

Feathering is just blending in the edges of the unpainted areas and the painted areas, so there isn't a pronounced "step". For the scuffing you just need high grit emery paper, maybe 600 grit or higher, just to give the new paint something to key into.

 

[1967coronet]

As far as filler, the patch areas need to be ground down smooth, then the area were the filler is going needs at least a 180 grit surface to lock on, 120 is fine if you have that. use a decent filler not a glaze any of the evercoats will work , rage, ultra , gold , ect. sand that down with 180 and prime 3 coats then block with your 320.
I need to back track a little.......... engine bay , you need to do a scrub job with a grease and wax remover or at least a product like castrol super clean ect before you do much else.

 

[myk r sanchez]

As far as filler, the patch areas need to be ground down smooth, then the area were the filler is going needs at least a 180 grit surface to lock on, 120 is fine if you have that. use a decent filler not a glaze any of the evercoats will work , rage, ultra , gold , ect. sand that down with 180 and prime 3 coats then block with your 320.
I need to back track a little.......... engine bay , you need to do a scrub job with a grease and wax remover or at least a product like castrol super clean ect before you do much else.

I was just about to ask what to use to clean the engine bay-Castrol Superclean is something I actually have. Thank you...

 

[Ranger16]

Oh wow, when I mentioned rattle can (post #5) I didn't realize the engine was out. At this point, I'd agree with everyone else and do the entire engine bay while you have the opportunity.

 

[myk r sanchez]

Oh wow, when I mentioned rattle can (post #5) I didn't realize the engine was out. At this point, I'd agree with everyone else and do the entire engine bay while you have the opportunity.

I'm going to have to go the rattle can route...

 

[funknut]

The SuperClean worked great, thanks for that recommendation. Everything came out clean pretty easily except for the vacuum canister. Took me 45 mins of spraying and scrubbing just to get it looking reasonable, but it got the job done.

I need some more advice, this time on the windshield channel. I scraped out all the sealer and did my best to get it clean, but now I have bare spots and want to protect it. I'm assuming I can use a small brush to apply epoxy primer to the area? Any tricks or gotchas I should look out for?

 

[1967coronet]

The SuperClean worked great, thanks for that recommendation. Everything came out clean pretty easily except for the vacuum canister. Took me 45 mins of spraying and scrubbing just to get it looking reasonable, but it got the job done.

I need some more advice, this time on the windshield channel. I scraped out all the sealer and did my best to get it clean, but now I have bare spots and want to protect it. I'm assuming I can use a small brush to apply epoxy primer to the area? Any tricks or gotchas I should look out for?

Epoxy primer sealer is fine, bush on with a foam brush will work. main thing is surface prep, scuff /sand areas that get primed.

 

[Dan64]

You can call your local paint supplier and give them your paint code and they will mix up a base coat / clear coat or single stage paint for you in a rattle can . Around here it's about $20 maybe for them to do it, buy one and see what you think. I know of quite a few guys around here that have done it this way with really good results. The base then clear looks a little better than the single from what i've seen.

 

[JoePole]

I'm one of those guys that went the pre mix rattle can from auto paint supply shop.
I painted the engine compartment with the engine out. Very happy with the results and has held up excellent for about 11 years. Paint code match was spot on.
Do it to it!!!!

 

[funknut]

Thanks to everyone’s encouragement, I sprayed SPI epoxy primer today. I used a 1.4mm gun with around 30psi at the gun and after an initial rookie mistake I mostly got the hang of it.

First batch I didn’t mix the solids in very well and it was very thin. Luckily I only mixed a small amount. Second mix was much better and coverage was nice and even. I have a lot to learn working in a small space like and engine bay.

I'm reasonably happy with the results considering it was my first go. This isn't the greatest pic but coverage was good. Tomorrow I start smoothing out my weld areas.