• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

New B-Body owner...

BowtieGent

Member
Local time
10:06 AM
Joined
Feb 6, 2016
Messages
8
Reaction score
1
Location
Mission, BC.
Hello All,
I joined up over on FABO, and was suggested I join here. A bit about me...I am currently an owner of a different B-Body car, as one can see by my user name, but have had a MOPAR B-Body sort of fall into my lap.

I recently stumbled upon a '69 Lime Light Green Metallic (currently Brown)Road Runner that I am considering purchasing, either to restore or part out. (VERY tempted to restore)
It was born a 383/HD 4-speed car with an 8-3/4, 3:23 NON sure-grip open diff car. Thanks to 69CoronetRT, the trim tag was deciphered. Trim Tag is as follows:

20139 228095 9A227130
925 593 603

1T 6W
F5 F5 H2T T7 (sideways O)
RM23 E63 D21 214 B40645


TOP LINE:

20 = gate and 139 = base numbers. These are related to the production of the body in white for that car.

228095= Sequence number. Number of bodies produced during that model year at that plant. (take this number and subtract 100001) so this was body in white # 128094

9 = 1969 model year
A= assembly plant = Lynch Road
227130 = VIN number

1T= V1T = Tan vinyl top
6W = V6W = white sport stripe

925 = engine assembly number = 383-4bbl for manual transmission B-body. 335 horsepower. This number DOES tell you the HP rating.

593 = rear end assembly = 69 B body 8.75 rear end with 3.23 open (non sure grip) 11" drum brakes

603 = transmission assembly = 69 B body 383-4bbl four speed


F5 F5 = top and bottom of car painted Limelight Metallic green
H2T = interior trim code = High trim level, vinyl bench seat; saddle tan
T7 = inner upper door frames pained tan to match interior
(sideways O) = typical Lynch Road inspection stamp

RM23 = Road Runner Hard top
E63 = 383-4bbl (Does NOT tell you horsepower rating only that the engine is a 383-4bbl)
D21 = four speed
214 = scheduled production date of February 14, 1969
B40645 = Vehicle Order Number (VON). B indicates it was sold in Canada. So this car would NOT be accounted for in the white book production number breakdowns
 
Last edited:
Welcome, I would restore it. Do you have any pics of the car
 
Welcome to FBBO from SoCal. Best site on the net for b bodies.
 
Welcome! :VB toast:

Two things:

1) Where are the pics?! Here at FBBO, we thrive on pics.. and you will hear incessant questioning and whining if you don't post them.

2) Most people around here will tell you to restore your car (seems like any car) back to factory specs. See above ^^ lol. I say build it whichever way makes you smile more.

:3gears:
 
Welcome from across the water in Victoria.Going by the fender tag,that would be a pretty cool ride plus it was built on Valentines Day as well.
 
Photos:

Here are some photos I took the other day. I was going to post them when I typed my opening to the thread, but dinner was ready...:)
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    160.1 KB · Views: 364
  • 2.jpg
    2.jpg
    126.6 KB · Views: 335
  • 3.jpg
    3.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 340
  • 4.jpg
    4.jpg
    86.6 KB · Views: 342
  • 5.jpg
    5.jpg
    188 KB · Views: 351
  • 6.jpg
    6.jpg
    115.9 KB · Views: 340
  • 7.jpg
    7.jpg
    80.4 KB · Views: 352
  • 8.jpg
    8.jpg
    103.4 KB · Views: 349
  • 9.jpg
    9.jpg
    113.2 KB · Views: 332
  • 10.jpg
    10.jpg
    170.2 KB · Views: 348
  • 11.jpg
    11.jpg
    70 KB · Views: 362
  • 12.jpg
    12.jpg
    68.8 KB · Views: 336
  • 13.jpg
    13.jpg
    70.2 KB · Views: 360
  • 14.jpg
    14.jpg
    85.6 KB · Views: 347
  • 15.jpg
    15.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 335
As rough as it seems to look, i'm not judging its restorability until I get it out of its current location and pressure wash it.
There is no VIN, but I have spoken with my local DMV and can get a province assigned VIN for it with the appropriate paperwork filled out.
The firewall forward is still in VERY good condition, and believe that is a very solid starting point IF I decide to tackle the restoration. I have searched Google to see what the LLGM paint looks like, and I think it's pretty sweet, especially with the Tan vinyl top and White stripe down the side.

- - - Updated - - -

Hi from Surrey, Welcome!:wav:

Thanks neighbor.:)
 
I'm curious to know if anyone has any parts that they would be willing to sell to aid in this build if I go forward with it.
 
your a braver man than me! Good luck and I'm glad to see another canuck restoring a car from the dead!!!
 
Wow was not expecting that. That definately would be a labor of love. You may may already know but to restore would cost more than what end value would ever be. These parts are way more costly than Bowtie resto parts...wish weren't but sad fact. Good luck though and welcome.
 
Anything is possible, its just metal.....

Id like to see pics of it cleaned up and sitting on concrete
 
Welcome to FBBO Bowtie. Man that Road Runner is a huge undertaking. Got to love your determination but you had better do some number crunching. Perhaps this one may make a better donor car than project?

As far as Bowties and Mopars, they go together quite well if I say so myself! image.jpg
 
Anything is possible, its just metal.....

Id like to see pics of it cleaned up and sitting on concrete

That is exactly how I am looking at it as well...Get it out of the weeds and give it a good wash and start from there.

Malex, I have been looking thru ebay at the cost of OEM replacement parts except for driveline stuff (motor, trans, diff), and prices seem to be quite reasonable, so that aspect hasn't scared me off.
I feel that trying to find a full OEM/donor floor and trunk floor/wheelwells, roof may prove to be challenging. I want to stay away from the aftermarket as much as I can if I decide to restore this RR. I keep hearing too many fitment nightmare stories with AM panels.

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome to FBBO Bowtie. Man that Road Runner is a huge undertaking. Got to love your determination but you had better do some number crunching. Perhaps this one may make a better donor car than project?

As far as Bowties and Mopars, they go together quite well if I say so myself! View attachment 306158


That's a sweet combo. I have a '70 Chevelle and a '65 Biscayne I am currently wrenching on . The Chevelle I have had for 20+ years, and needs as much as the RR does. The Biscayne I have had since 2012 and is a complete car that myself and a good friend got running last summer. I have access to a mostly complete '70 Chevelle donor car as well as a complete rolling chassis from a '70 Skylark.

I see your Belvedere is a Post Sedan, VERY nice. You should check out twodoorpost.activeboard.com, they are a forum focused strictly on 2 door post sedans. I am also a member there for obvious reasons...lol.
 
:clock: NOW HERE IS A MAN WITH A VISION. SAVING ANOTHER ONE FROM THE GRAVE. THE PATIENCE OF A SAINT!!

WHEN ITS ALL DONE YOUR GONNA HAVE ONE HELL OF A STORY . MAKE SURE YOU TAKE PICTURES FROM DAY ONE TILL ITS DONE . GOOD LUCK GOD SPEED.
 
:clock: NOW HERE IS A MAN WITH A VISION. SAVING ANOTHER ONE FROM THE GRAVE. THE PATIENCE OF A SAINT!!

WHEN ITS ALL DONE YOUR GONNA HAVE ONE HELL OF A STORY . MAKE SURE YOU TAKE PICTURES FROM DAY ONE TILL ITS DONE . GOOD LUCK GOD SPEED.

Much appreciated. Sometimes I wonder if I have more balls than brains, but the fear of tackling it doesn't seem to be evident...lol.
My only issue is space. I thought about using a rotisserie, but I feel at THIS stage, it's too much out of square to put on a rotisserie. With a new or replacement floor in place first would be a better starting point to allow for a more squared platform to install the remaining panels.

- - - Updated - - -

My first order of business is to find out how desirable a '69 RR with this motor/trans is and it's color scheme. If it's FAIRLY common, I fear it's desirability would be limited.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top