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New Cam Oil Fill Recommendations ?

70rcode

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New flat tappet mechanical cam (150# seat/350# nose) street/strip specific 1st Oil Fill brand/viscosity your real world experience successful break in recommendations needed. Regular street oil (synthetic or conventional) or something different/special ? Just wondering what your most successful flat tappet break in experience oil used...thx, tom.
 
I used Rotella T5 (conventional 10w30) with a bottle of ZDDP Plus. Ran it all summer (roughly 2000 miles) and changed the oil the next spring. That was 4 years ago. Still use the same oil. No problems.
 
Just be sure to use a dedicated break-in oil for that cam session. It's as much about the ring seal happening as it is the cam protection...and some folks say they like to change only the filter and re-use the oil but not me, I want all the assembly greases and lubes and whatever other contaminates from the build to get out as quickly as possible. I put a fresh filter and more break-in oil in and start driving it. Subsequent oil changes are a matter of preference but I use break in oil until about 500 miles and then switch to regular (high zddp).
 
I'm seeing a trend of "break in" type oils being used...Why "break in" type of all the other available formulations ? Conventional or Synthetic based ?
 
I'm seeing a trend of "break in" type oils being used...Why "break in" type of all the other available formulations ? Conventional or Synthetic based ?

Most important is that new oils don’t have ZDDP which is a zinc compound that helps sliding surfaces. New cams have rollers, these old cams with flat tappets slide so they need the zinc. You can buy oil with the zinc in it or you can buy an additive and put it in yourself.

Next most important is that some new oils, especially synthetic oils, lube really well, so well that they hinder break-in which is really a wearing-in process. Avoid synthetics and semi-synthetics.

After that there were many bad experiences people had when the oil was changed to remove the zinc and they didn’t know about it. Compound that with good marketing and properly configured products and you’ve got “break-in” oil.

No harm whatsoever in buying one of those. Also no harm in using conventional oil of the right viscosity with a ZDDP additive. Some cams even come with the right amount of the right additive, Melling for instance does this. Kinda takes the magic out of it. After that, start the thing and keep it revved over 2000 or 2500 rpm for around a half hour. This keeps a heavier flow of oil coming down from the rockers and upper engine to run over the cam until it has its initial burnish.
 
Thx for your successful flat tappet break in motor oil info. Seems you use something that works & stay with it deal.
 
I'm going o run-in a new solid lifter cam on Monday. I've put a new filter on as well as fresh running in oil, plus the additive that came with the cam. If all goes well, after the initial break in, I'll change the filter and put in more running in oil which I'll leave for probably a few hundred miles, then go back to my usual zinc rich oil. Might be overkill but oil is cheaper than metal.
 
I'm seeing a trend of "break in" type oils being used...Why "break in" type of all the other available formulations ? Conventional or Synthetic based ?
you need zinc in the oil for the cam life as well as brake in. insurance is a way to look at it and with amsoil you dont have to buy an additive to add.
 
To me, the most important part is not the brand of oil. Any 'break-in' oil should have enough ZDDP to protect the cam and lifters. I think the problem comes when the engine is not set-up properly for an instant start or not pre-oiled. If the timing or fuel delivery isn't spot on, and the engine has to repeatedly be cranked without starting, there is a good chance that the damage may already be done. As has been said, the engine should immediately be run up to 2,000-2,500 rpm, the timing checked, and held there for 20-30 minutes. Of course, the cooling system has to be up to the job and a floor fan pointed into the radiator helps as well. Numerous articles have indicated that adding ZDDP on your own is probably not a good idea. I've broken in my last 2 engines, both with hydraulic flat tappet cams, with Comp Cams Break-in oil. After 200 miles I switched to Mobil 1 10-30w full synthetic, which I like because it keeps the inside of the engine so clean. The myth that synthetic oils cause leaks because they are more slippery was disproved long ago. JMO
 
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I use the Driven stuff also. They have a lot of good information. I never seen anyone get so excited about
'lubricants' as Lake Speed Jr. :D
 
Sorry NATE S you get the red X!

conventional oil has too much detergent. It won’t let your ZDDP do what the bottle claims.

quit playing chemist games and just buy the right oil from the start. Forget ZDDP additives, buy oil made for the old car and flat tappet cams.
 
Agree on the gibbs break in oil, But I think a little less lbs on the springs for run in would be good insurance on a flat tappet.
If you have dbls pull the inner, or just use a set of oem springs for the run in and swap out after.
Just me but #150/350 seems a bit heavy for break in.
 
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