New plan in aiming my 'boat'....

[bandit67]

Guys, just got my first b body big block on the road a few weeks ago and it drives/handles awful . I went with a stock rebuilt gear box and original to the car, Federal ps unit. Even with the best alignment possible , driveability was crap. This is a 73 with big tires but my 72 small block with big tires has very acceptable handling and its all stock. So, in seeing the many opinions here, threads by K Dog, I ordered the Borgeson unit with Saginaw pump from Peter Bergman. The search is on finding a cure for this wondering beast.......

 

[BeepBeepRR]

You will notice the difference. I did this conversion on a 69 GTX and the owner said it was like night and day difference.

 

[Don Frelier]

What is the condition of the bushings?
Particularly the lower control arms.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I once had a 74 Charger that drove like crap. Found out the idler arm was worn out. New idler arm got me a nice driving Charger. Check yours for play...

 

[bandit67]

1. I pulled the k member and rebushed all with new, OEM replacement parts. All new bushing for upper and lower control arms, new ball joints, even k member to frame bushings. Just wanted to start with a fresh, OEM front end and see from there. I did install KYB s on the front and now understand they are a terrible choice, so, new stuff coming.

 

[Darter6]

Found out the idler arm was worn out.

For me when I got my Charger it had a worn pitman arm causing the car to wonder.

 

[493 Mike]

Don't 73s have the rubber mounted K frame? That was crap engineering. The HD suspension models had solid iron spacers to eliminate the "rubber wallow". Repops may still be available.
Mike

 

[Darter6]

solid iron spacers to eliminate the "rubber wallow".

Also in polyurethane. I swapped to the poly on a 79 Cordoba.Major difference. Prothane has them for the front K frame,Torsion bar mount and rear springs.

 

[bandit67]

Yes, 73s have rubber bushed k member to frame bushings, and that very well may be whats adding to my "loose" feeling in the front end. Guess I want the best of both worlds, great handling and minimum vibration feedback. May have to readdress this in the near future.

 

[SattyNoCar]

I don't understand people who piss and moan about how mounting the K solid in a '73 up B-body made their car ride so 'harsh'. All you've essentially done is make it a '72 - older B-body. Don't see very many people complain about the harshness of a '72-back B.

I have the K mounted solid in my wagon using an old Direct Connect/Mopar Performance kit. With a factory big block car, I think you'll feel the difference of the solid K more in terms of tightening things up as big block cars are missing so much of the inner fender on the passenger side. Even with everything else rebuilt/replaced, it wasn't until I mounted the K solid that the car felt 'locked in'. The difference was especially noticeable on washboard roads.

Not sure if its the preferred method, but I used the poly mounts on the crossmember.

Firm Feel sells aluminum solid mounts for the K.... http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_late_mopar_sub_frame_isolators.html

 

[Big Bad Dad]

1. I pulled the k member and rebushed all with new, OEM replacement parts. All new bushing for upper and lower control arms, new ball joints, even k member to frame bushings. Just wanted to start with a fresh, OEM front end and see from there. I did install KYB s on the front and now understand they are a terrible choice, so, new stuff coming.

You didn't mention the idler arm. Or tie rods ends either. Did you replace these? Also, there is currently a thread on here with a member needing to rebuild the coupler at the steering column to steering box. I had that issue with my old Dodge pickup, and it drove much better after I rebuilt the coupler and eliminated the slack in the steering. Ya might want to take a look at how much play you have at that point.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/steering-coupler-play.245467/#post-912236858

 

[bandit67]

Tie rods were replaced as well as the idler arm. I prefer Moog parts when possible but remember the idler arm was not Moog. Not sure what brand, prolly chinese , but , stock.
I just assumed the rubber k frame bushing were a normal improvement design by the Chrysler engineers. Not sure how many more years after 73 k members were used and did they go back to non bushed ones?
The steering coupler donut is something of an oddity for 73s. Auto stores don't have them and to find an old OEM unit is very expensive. Some on here have used a hockey puck , heard that has worked well. Some one posted a donut used on a Range Rover is close in size and will work. I went that route. It is the correct size, just a bit thicker and will need longer bolts to use as is, or, milled down about 3/16 or so.

 

[SattyNoCar]

The isolated K frame lived out its life in RWD cars (B,R,M,F,J). So, up to the mid-'80's?

While I haven't done it myself, I've heard others say they did away with the rubber steering coupler after mounting the K solid.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Tie rods were replaced as well as the idler arm. I prefer Moog parts when possible but remember the idler arm was not Moog. Not sure what brand, prolly chinese , but , stock.
I just assumed the rubber k frame bushing were a normal improvement design by the Chrysler engineers. Not sure how many more years after 73 k members were used and did they go back to non bushed ones?
The steering coupler donut is something of an oddity for 73s. Auto stores don't have them and to find an old OEM unit is very expensive. Some on here have used a hockey puck , heard that has worked well. Some one posted a donut used on a Range Rover is close in size and will work. I went that route. It is the correct size, just a bit thicker and will need longer bolts to use as is, or, milled down about 3/16 or so.

The steering coupler I meant is not the "rubber donut" thing. Did you read the link to the other thread I posted above? Those metal swivel/slide couplers do wear out, and cause excessive play in the steering. This is what I am referring to:

 

[bandit67]

Yes, BBD, I installed a new coupler kit, fresh lube. When I had the motor out , k member out for rebuild, I stripped, cleaned, painted the engine bay and underbody. I replaced EVERTHING I knew of to bring the car up to OEM specks. When I was younger many times I did not have the time or funds to do things as needed at its appointed time of disassembly . No more, I have both. When you have worn parts in service and sub par performance , one can understand that. So, now, I am replacing new parts with up graded parts. Got new Tier 1 upper control arms on the way from Peter Bergmans. I may need to go with his roller bearing idler arm next if I don't reach a level of service I seek. Thanks to all the posters here, learning whats new for our cars and how to make em better , is much easier.....a great bunch for sure......

 

[bandit67]

As you can see, the Borgeson unit with the no cut, direct fit coupler is short by 3 to 4 inches to reach colume shaft on the 73. Appears I'm gonna have to adapt their Helm joint coupler as well, unless Peter has a better solution . Its good to have patience when these challenges arise......