New "problem"...blowing oil and the dipstick out its tube when I mat the gas pedal...

biomedtechguy

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Thanks again, ALL of my forum family.
When I first got my Roadrunner, I had 6bbl issues and weak valve springs. I have come so far since then, and I have put into action $$ my stroker motor ambition, but I thought I'd be storing a motor (my current mill) that didn't need anything but to be oiled and turned over every few months, just in case I needed a backup, or to maybe sell.
 

MoparDanMan

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I've had to be aware of oil out of the driver's side valve cover breather ever since I changed from the factory stock PCV and valve covers. I had that factory black breather that has some internal headroom height and "dual wall" design that only allowed vapor to exit via the vacuum hose + PCV valve.
My "new" (4 years old now) fabricated valve covers required a new PCV valve and I bought a nice looking breather. I found way back 4 or 3½ years ago that when I was at the track or on the highway I'd get oil coming out the breather.
At that point I discovered not just any PCV valve functions as it should for a particular motor, and I got a M/E Wagner tunable PCV valve, although I run it in fixed orifice mode, aka "max suck". That seemed to resolve the problem.
Now when I do a "test hit" AKA wide open throttle from launch thru 2nd gear, on 2 occasions, my dipstick pops up out of the tube a bit and the oil sprays out the top. I just recently changed to a new Mopar breather w/foam element to replace a similar (but not identical) one because the foam element in the one I had was oil soaked, dripping oil onto my valve covers, and I knew of no way to clean the oil out.
A friend suggested adding a longer tube height breather to prevent the oil from reaching the top of the breather cap so easily AND adding at least one additional breather. My valve covers ARE baffled under the breather hole, so no direct path up the breather.
He suggested having 4 breathers, 2 per valve cover, but that would eliminate my PCV system and I'm not going to do that.
Suggestions welcome, please help!
Normally with blow by you think rings, but with the amount of blow by you're talking about I would suspect a damaged piston. I had a customer bring in a car with the same problem and they had somehow burned a hole in the top of one. Anyway I don't think I would drive the car until it is fixed. If the piston is damaged the block may still be salvageable.
 

MoparDanMan

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Old trick is a spark plug boot over the dipstick tube then insert the dipstick.
The boot will hold the dipstick in place and won't push out.
The oil cap/breather to the air filter,the crimp on the aftermarket style will drip oil out the crimp.I just clean and apply silicone around the crimp.Or use the factory one as is pictured, never had one drip.Last is where the PCV valve is,is a GM part,Mid 80's that is baffled.Helped with the old Slant's oil woes. View attachment 1090092
That's a sweet leaning tower of power!
 

Shorthorse

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I agree on the leak down test. The results will confirm any suspicions. If the crankcase gets too much pressure you'll start seeing oil seepage in other vulnerable places, (valve covers, distributor hole, valley pan, etc.)
 

Nevada dan

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I had an engine that ran great , it was an old build , balanced , 10 to 1 compression mild cam, it started blowing oil out of the dip stick and pvc and vent , took a comp test # 6 had about 50 lbs, pulled the head off it , had a head gasket leak and the engine sat some time between running , it puddled up some coolant and when started it broke about a half inch of piston above the top ring on the side
 

biomedtechguy

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had a head gasket leak
A head gasket leak is one of the possibilities that would be good news, but I doubt that is my issue, as much as I'd like it to be that "easy".
I put Felpro blue coated head gaskets on back when I changed out the:
Lifters,
Springs,
Pushrods, (just because)
Locks and Retainers...
That's been about 5-6 years ago IIRC.
I'll look at the spark plugs on the way to doing the compression test. I bought the kit for the 421 mainly, but I wound up having that rebuilt into an even higher level of performance than a previous owner. The 421 4 bolt main Tripower is in my wife's 65 GTO.
 

khryslerkid

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What kind of vacuum are you pulling with your cam? Where do you have the hose to the pcv valve hooked up? Make sure the port you're using isn't carboned up and blocking vacuum.
 

Dodge 330

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We've had problems on a couple of engines blowing the dipstick out. Both were traced back to breathers that were either inadequate or partially plugged leading to increased crankcase pressure. One did not start doing that until we went from 3.23 to 4.56 gears and had prolonged higher rpms. The cheapie Mr. Gasket breather was replaced with a K&N piece. Problem solved.
 

biomedtechguy

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I had an engine that ran great , it was an old build , balanced , 10 to 1 compression mild cam, it started blowing oil out of the dip stick and pvc and vent , took a comp test # 6 had about 50 lbs, pulled the head off it , had a head gasket leak and the engine sat some time between running , it puddled up some coolant and when started it broke about a half inch of piston above the top ring on the side
Ok, you're correct, I "didn't get it" when I first read your post I just quoted here.
I'll start with
¹ Check the PCV valve, but I'm sure it's not clogged up, but it likely has oil in it.
It's billet aluminum, and it may be having trouble pulling air and fumes because of the oil. The father/son team at M/E Wagner is great with tech support, so I'll run this situation by them too, and ask about adding a 2nd breather or replacing the one I have with one that breathes easier, maybe a taller installation height to reduce or eliminate the oil coming out of it. Checking the hose it's connected to as well. It's hooked to the center carb on the 6bbl, that has a provision for this (see large diameter capped brass colored male tube at black arrow, bottom left quarter of picture)
20210329_180736.jpg

What kind of vacuum are you pulling with your cam? Where do you have the hose to the pcv valve hooked up?
11-12 vac at idle, around 900-950 RPMs, purple stripe cam, likely the 292°/.509...
The thing is, I don't think the PCV valve pulls any vacuum at WOT, and that is when I'm having a problem.
I have evac tube nipples in my TTi headers, but I've always had them capped off, but if need be, I could go that route. Doug's electronic cutouts would prevent getting oil in my mufflers, which are in front of the rear axle, 40 series Flowmaster, 3" dia from front to back.
 
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biomedtechguy

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Your red arrow is pointing to the bowl vent.The black capped port below the choke pull off is where your PCV hose should go.
D'OH!! I rushed to post that pic. Of course you are right, and that IS what I use it for, and I have edited the post and picture to correct. Thanks
PS, @Darter6 if you delete your post I quoted, I can delete this one, so I don't look so stupid...lol.
 

beanhead

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Bio I had a 440 built similar to yours do the same thing, spit oil anywhere it could and would pop the 'stick up two inches after WOT blasts only. Ring seal never was great on that engine but it served it's purpose until the next build.
It ran very well even with that high-rpm blowby issue. Like Doug says, zip-tie that thing down and let the beatings continue until it's time for the stroker to go in. No sense creating down-time for the car (especially this time of year!) when the engine's not long for this world anyway right?

Your red arrow is pointing to the bowl vent.The black capped port below the choke pull off is where your PCV hose should go.
Ooh yeah good catch!
 

biomedtechguy

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No sense creating down-time for the car (especially this time of year!) when the engine's not long for this world anyway right?
Definitely, in that I had my car in the shop last year for MONTHS, having a lot of "goodies" installed and a lot of parts, systems, and work done to improve my track performance AND in preparation for the stroker.
"Goodies" are the Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system and Vintage Air A/C for our brutal summers.
On the practical and preparatory side, so much I'd say look at my signature. Much was needed, like the Calvert split mono leaf springs, sliders because I prefer them to hangars, front and rear plates to reinforce the front leaf spring mounts, Assassin traction bars, line lock, 4 wheel 6 piston Wilwood disc brakes, and a complete front suspension replacement, tubular QA1 K member and all. Borgeson power steering as a component of the Wraptor PS pump, etc. Launch control and the dual disc clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, and Strange chromoly steel everything including slip and pinion gear yokes.
There's more that is in my sig, but what I listed here would have been done regardless of the stroker.
I'd DEFINITELY like to wring out the 440 for at least a year or so. To be clear, it's a GREAT engine, other than this one problem.
 

beanhead

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Definitely, in that I had my car in the shop last year for MONTHS, having a lot of "goodies" installed and a lot of parts, systems, and work done to improve my track performance AND in preparation for the stroker.
"Goodies" are the Wraptor serpentine belt and accessories system and Vintage Air A/C for our brutal summers.
On the practical and preparatory side, so much I'd say look at my signature. Much was needed, like the Calvert split mono leaf springs, sliders because I prefer them to hangars, front and rear plates to reinforce the front leaf spring mounts, Assassin traction bars, line lock, 4 wheel 6 piston Wilwood disc brakes, and a complete front suspension replacement, tubular QA1 K member and all. Borgeson power steering as a component of the Wraptor PS pump, etc. Launch control and the dual disc clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, and Strange chromoly steel everything including slip and pinion gear yokes.
There's more that is in my sig, but what I listed here would have been done regardless of the stroker.
I'd DEFINITELY like to wring out the 440 for at least a year or so. To be clear, it's a GREAT engine, other than this one problem.
I see.....WHEELIES in your future!:D:D:D
 

HEMI-ITIS

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Personally,I do not like green eggs and ham:D,,,,,,errrrrrr PVC in a performance engine.When oil gets in it causes detonation.....BAD:moparsmiley:
 

Budnicks

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Personally,I do not like green eggs and ham:D,,,,,,errrrrrr PVC in a performance engine.When oil gets in it causes detonation.....BAD:moparsmiley:
he doesn't have/run a 'huge pressurizer on top' either :poke:
apples & oranges
but a good valid point
 
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