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New seal when pulling/placing Damper?

///Matt

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So my vibration damper was not fully seated by the last guy to mess with it. I need to get it fully seated.

Randy at Bouchillon told me “remove the damper and the reinstall it” (more or less.) but I thought “man, I’ll just snug it down with an install tool and I’ll be good.

But no. I broke the tool (apparently my sweet guns plus a 12” long wrench found the tensile strength of an autoZoo damper install tool).

So of course, Randy was right, and I’m going to remove it first, check the crank at damper mating surfaces, apply some anti-seize, and reinstall.

Do you think I should just go ahead and do a new set of timing cover seals (and of course WP Housing in the process) while I’m in there, or should I be ok not to replace the crank seal?
76+ 440, cast crank.
 
Probably just a piece of **** tool, but it wouldn't hurt to remove the pulley and take a quick look at things. If nothing's leaking now I wouldn't mess with it....i little bit of oil on the outside surface of the pulley snout and drive her home ! Those pulleys can be very tight going on ....
 
If it didn't leak previously and you don't damage it I wouldn't think a new seal necessary. You have a bigger fish to fry if you're breaking install tools and that balancer isn't going on all the way. Find where it's hanging.
 
If the dampener was not fully seated you need to take a close look at the crank gear for the chain and the key ect. Cant remember what rig I was working on but I broke a Snap -On installer. Got a new one from my guy under warranty.
 
If it didn't leak previously and you don't damage it I wouldn't think a new seal necessary. You have a bigger fish to fry if you're breaking install tools and that balancer isn't going on all the way. Find where it's hanging.

It doesn’t (noticably) leak... and I have no ideahow long/hours/miles it’s been “almost installed”, so I’m definitely looking to be sure the crank hub is clean and smooth. The balancer has some..... encouragement marks.... like someone previously tried to get it to seat in an unorthodox fashion.
 
Be sure to check the woodruff key...could be part of the hang up. Or just replace it.
 
If the seal has age you may want to replace it. If it’s riding on a higher spot on the balancer it may leak if you now have it riding in a lower spot on the balancer once it’s installed correctly. Typically there’s a wear area on the balancer from the seal.

Nothing worse than have to do stuff a second time.
 
If the seal has age you may want to replace it. If it’s riding on a higher spot on the balancer it may leak if you now have it riding in a lower spot on the balancer once it’s installed correctly. Typically there’s a wear area on the balancer from the seal.

Nothing worse than have to do stuff a second time.
Generally, I agree that “I might as well”... in this case, the motor runs well, and I don’t want to open a can or worms by opening stuff up if I don’t have to. I’m pretty picky once I start digging, and I can imagine a very easy scenario in which “I’ll just change the timing cover seals” suddenly becomes “I’m just gonna go ahead and rebuild the complete motor.”
 
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