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Nitrous Express said Holley told them the spacer plates will fit our 2bbl carbs

biomedtechguy

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So I'm getting the setup and 1st thing removing the plate to see if it does, in fact fit.
Planning on keeping the power increase jets setup for 50-100 horsepower.
Opinions? Experience?
3 x 2 bbl system specific. Unlike the old discontinued system, this comes setup for the center carb only to spray, whereas the older system only used the outboard carbs to spray. I'm sure they could help me configure it for just the outboards to spray.
I'm thinking after my stroker motor build, I could even do a "2 stage system" where the primary kit runs the center or outboards, and then "in case of falling behind" I could trigger the remaining carb(s) kit to activate.
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/30026-10-holley-2-bbl-tri-power-3-plates-gasoline-50-300hp.html
Comments are greatly appreciated!
 
Comments? Ummm.....
Close to speechless....

I’m surprised to see the system to begin with. Perhaps that was in response to the latest six pack set up released for the Chevy? I just think it is great it is offered!

I certainly like your thinking. 2 stages for “Just Incase” there “MIGHT” be a need. I have zero N02 experience and wish you great success in this endeavor. I look forward to this build and usage posted up here.
 
My small block 6 pack will be NA under this hood
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I have this B block unit for use with.....
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This interesting gem of a scoop...
(The 2 X 4 is slated for a S/B TR5)

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I’m surprised to see the system to begin with.
I am remorseful that when I had an opportunity to buy a good condition used 6 bbl Nitrous system, the same model that @PurpleBeeper has, that is now impossible to find, that PurpleBeeper has had success with and posted some nice pix and info about on this FBBO forum, I missed out on buying one by a couple of weeks. That system uses the outboard carbs for spray. I am going to start with this system as designed, using the center carb spray plate only. If that goes well, I may buy a T and split the NO2 and fuel, or double up the NO2 and fuel solenoids instead of a T and spray the outboard carbs only, like the original system had. If that goes well, or works better, that in and of itself may provide all of the power adding capacity I could want. If for some reason I find that lacking, I could add another plate to the center, and then use that as a "kicker" 2nd stage. Chances are that if the center plate works well, I won't even reach it's full output capacity until my stroker motor is built, with parts and design conducive to withstanding the spray.
I will start with a 50 shot at the center and progress to a 100 shot at the center, and then maybe for experimental purposes just spray 2 50hp shots on the outboard carbs for a direct comparison to the 100hp center shot.
Should be interesting, hopefully my "going light" on the jets of the NO2 system will prevent damage to my current motor.
The NX plate is interesting. It uses machined holes in the plate itself rather than a separate "spray bar" and that keeps the airway open, with no spray bar to come loose or sag....
I LIKE it!
 
I don't run a sixpak, but do run a nitrous express 4bbl. Plate kit. I'm currently running a 150 hp shot through it and it works flawlessly. Two things you should consider: purchase the leash Electronics single stage nitrous board that has all of the relays, fuses and is a really neat setup! Build your own supplemental fuel system to feed it. I use a junior dragster fuel cell and a small electric pump to feed the fuel solenoid.
 
If I was going to spray a six pack I would consider doing it under all 3 carbs. At a minimum the 2 outboards. Your distribution is going to be less than ideal under the center only, espically with that dual plane on a stroker. Just a thought. Something else to consider is you usually have a lean spike when the vacuum outboards open. I would not want the nitrous on during that transition.
 
If I was going to spray a six pack I would consider doing it under all 3 carbs. At a minimum the 2 outboards. Your distribution is going to be less than ideal under the center only, espically with that dual plane on a stroker. Just a thought. Something else to consider is you usually have a lean spike when the vacuum outboards open. I would not want the nitrous on during that transition.

Typically you use a microswitch on the throttle to only activate it at full throttle.
 
Right but, outboards are vacuum and don’t instantly open when you go to wot. It would need to be hooked to them.
Yes, I would use a WOT switch, but I think it would have to be on the mechanical center so as to not interfere with the outboards opening all the way under vacuum because of resistance of depressing the switch? The "spray" button I am thinking would fix that? In other words a window switch for RPM based control, and a WOT switch, and still no spray until I hit the "spray" button. @PurpleBeeper put a micro switch push button on his pistol grip.
The original system was outboard carbs only, and @PurpleBeeper has that one.
Given that I am planning on limiting my center carb to a 100 shot, then trying 2 50 shots on the outboard carbs only (no center) to compare the effectiveness of placement of one to the other, I'm hoping that is mild enough not to get into trouble.
I can't speculate further until I try it out.
PurpleBeeper...got anything to add?
 
I have 3 plates & some solenoids. I am piecing together a kit now to run on my Sixpack Charger. I might like Nitrous a little. My Hemi in my Challenger is also on two kits.

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I would put the micro switch on the outboard carbs for activation. Also I would use a nitrous controller. That way you can ramp up the nitrous to 100% and even use a delay to make sure the car is hooked up before activation. It can also retard your timing and do other functions. I used one on my dragbike, well worth the money!
 
Here's my 2-cents.
a) I'm sure the outboards opening gives you a momentary lean spike, but my WOT switch is activated by contact with the throttle linkage on the front, outboard carb. The microswitch doesn't have a lot of resistance to pushing it.
b) I looked at adding a 2nd stage to the center carb, but it's awful tight between the center & back carburetor, so I'm not sure the NOS brand plate would fit....probably could make it fit somehow...it's just tight.
c) Related to this, I've investigated a little bit about "why" you need the spray bar running front-to-back instead of side-to-side? There would be more clearance if I could plumb the fuel/nitrous from the sides of the center plate instead of front/back. I'd have to build my own plate (been looking into this a little).
d) 69GTX makes some good points & a controller would be a good idea (who has the purple controller boxes?). Running a 125hp shot on a 4 bbl. on my car I would blow the tires off in 1st/2nd gear, so I really just used my "trigger finger" in 3rd/4th gear or once I was sure I was hooked up well. I've run nitrous since the mid 80's back when they didn't have all this fancy extra stuff...heck, I used to purge the system by cracking open the nitrous line with a wrench!
e) I don't think you need a dedicated fuel system below maybe 150hp or so. Just run good 93 octane gas & a good, high flow fuel pump (Holley blue or better)

Hope This helps.
 
:lowdown: PurpleBeeper
and all others who have replied!
Nitrous controller sounds like a great idea, I assume it has "RPM window" "WOT" features and more.
you can ramp up the nitrous to 100%
69 GTX...:thumbsup:
my "trigger finger"
I like that idea, as I said earlier, puts the driver in control as long as all other parameters are met. I may have a question about the switch part# and installation.
) I don't think you need a dedicated fuel system below maybe 150hp or so. Just run good 93 octane gas & a good, high flow fuel pump (Holley blue or better)
I appreciate the advice, but since I'm running a Carter M6903 mech fuel pump, if I start "adding on" to the fuel system, I may as well go with the S.A.F.E. Tank-I REALLY like the concept and being able to put some high octane race fuel or even locally available AVGas in it.
:thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou:
 
We used to call the "extra nitrous button" the Don King button. Hair reference to what you'd look like after you used it.
 
UPDATE:
Since my greatest concern about this Nitrous Express 3 x 2 bbl system is whether or not the plates will fit the manifold and carb bolt holes, etc, and if it does work I am going to try the spray plates on the outer 2 carbs after I try the center carb only spray plate (as the system is designed as sold-center carb only) I ordered a single spray plate today. Since I am about to send my 3 Holley carbs to Promax to have them install all of the Promax parts and rebuild all 3 carbs with the correct kit parts, and do a "pretune" what better time to check fitment? Besides, if the plate doesn't fit, it's a lot cheaper to ship back a plate than the entire NX system.
I'll follow up.
 
UPDATE:
Since my greatest concern about this Nitrous Express 3 x 2 bbl system is whether or not the plates will fit the manifold and carb bolt holes, etc, and if it does work I am going to try the spray plates on the outer 2 carbs after I try the center carb only spray plate (as the system is designed as sold-center carb only) I ordered a single spray plate today. Since I am about to send my 3 Holley carbs to Promax to have them install all of the Promax parts and rebuild all 3 carbs with the correct kit parts, and do a "pretune" what better time to check fitment? Besides, if the plate doesn't fit, it's a lot cheaper to ship back a plate than the entire NX system.
I'll follow up.
UPDATE!
I received a plate for the 3 x 2 bbl NX nitrous system today! It was supposed to be the center carb spray plate, that is what the packing slip says, but it is just a spacer like the kit comes with for the outboard carbs. :(
The good news is it does look like it matches up to everything, so Monday I will let NX know about the error, and likely go ahead and get the system.
Here's an old gasket from my 6 bbl and the plate that NX sent me.
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A side note on an idea that I had regarding "why" you can't run the center plate with the fittings for nitrous/fuel (& spray bars) going side-to-side instead of front-to-back.
a) there's not "nitrous reason" why you can't run the spray bar side-to-side. One supplier has a "cross hair" plate where spray bars run both directions (2-stages, 1 plate).
b) if you're running a 1/2" nitrous plate, the carburetor butterflies will (may..not tested) hit the spray bars. I did pick up a used NOS 4 bbl. plate to see if I can build my own 2 bbl. plate with the spray bars (& check clearance).

OK, basic question....anybody know how to un-screw a NOS plate's spray bars from the plate? Upon closer look, they seem to be glued in or something as both spray bars (fuel & nitrous) are sealed into the fuel/nitrous fittings on the outside of the plate. I guess I could always just cut into the plate with a dremel cutoff wheel, but I thought I'd ask here in case someone has already done it.
 
regarding "why" you can't run the center plate with the fittings for nitrous/fuel (& spray bars) going side-to-side instead of front-to-back.
Glad that you are involved in this thread given your years of experience with it, I appreciate :lowdown: your input!
I sent the regular "spacer" back yesterday and expect to receive the spray plate that I had paid for any day now. I specifically asked that whatever "fitting" or "attachment" that connects to the silver threaded connections in the attached picture also be sent and I would pay for them, or at least pictures and/or a detailed description. This is so I can see if it will fit between the front and back of the carbs, AND to see if a spray plate can be used on each 2 bbl carb.
I'll follow up.
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