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Nitrous Pistons

PurpleBeeper

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I'm running a relatively mild 440 with forged TRW pistons & a 125hp shot of nitrous. I've installed a cheater system (250hp shot) & I'm planning to build another motor. Do I need a "special piston" for a 250hp shot? I'm thinking I can just use any forged piston, but I want to see what you guys think.
 
I'm running a relatively mild 440 with forged TRW pistons & a 125hp shot of nitrous. I've installed a cheater system (250hp shot) & I'm planning to build another motor. Do I need a "special piston" for a 250hp shot? I'm thinking I can just use any forged piston, but I want to see what you guys think.
As long as it's forged it should be fine
 
i've always felt like heat (too lean) and making maximum cylinder pressure too early in the power cycle would be one's greatest enemy.
 
i've always felt like heat (too lean) and making maximum cylinder pressure too early in the power cycle would be one's greatest enemy.

Lean is certainly bad. I've seen a sbc forged piston with a hole the size of a silver dollar right over the pin from running lean.

Nitrous definitely produces a lot of heat, even with a good tune. I typically see about a 30F increase in coolant temperature in a 1/4 mile on the spray. In my mind (right or wrong), I've always thought that forged pistons were needed to handle the heat & the extra force.

Here and there I've seen references to "nitrous pistons", but I have no idea at what nitrous level they become "necessary" since I've only run 125hp/150hp shots so far. On Moparts, a couple guys mentioned something about finding pistons with the top ring lower and using special rings.

I think I'm just a little scared of hurting the motor with a 250hp shot and I'm trying to maximize my chances of the engine living a long time. I'm almost done adding a 2nd fuel pump/fuel line to supply the nitrous. I may not really need it, but I want to be SURE I have enough fuel supply. I melted a motor on another car running nitrous because the fuel pump couldn't keep up with the engine at WOT + the nitrous and I ran lean at the top end. I've also installed a multi-step MSD retard system for the ignition, but haven't wired it in yet. I want to pull out 3-5 degrees of timing on the bottle.
 
If the rings are lower on the piston you help avoid lifting the top piston land. You may also need just a little more piston to cyl. clearance. Also a programmable nitrous controller may help instead of dumping it all in at once.
 
4032 Forged alloys are for "small" amounts of Nitrous.... that's what your old TRW's are.

If you are going higher Nitrous ? or building a "Nitrous" Engine from scratch 2618 Alloy Forgings are a must.
 
4032 Forged alloys are for "small" amounts of Nitrous.... that's what your old TRW's are.

If you are going higher Nitrous ? or building a "Nitrous" Engine from scratch 2618 Alloy Forgings are a must.

A little of both. I want to spray the current motor (again) & I'm starting to think about the next motor. I'm thinking about staying in the 125-150hp shot range on the current motor. Hopefully I can resist swapping out the pills until I put something stronger together.
 
Watch out for TOTAL HORSEPOWER...over 750 or so and u will be testing your 2 bolt Main block

Hey Mike.....I'm right at that 750hp mark. What would be the next step if I want to make, say 850hp or so? Would I just need one of those side-bolted girdles on the mains? Aftermarket block?
 
Hey Mike.....I'm right at that 750hp mark. What would be the next step if I want to make, say 850hp or so? Would I just need one of those side-bolted girdles on the mains? Aftermarket block?

If you are making 750 on motor with a stock block rb I wouldn't spray it. I'd get an aftermarket block
 
With boost or squeeze,the ring pack must be lowered in the piston.

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