No Brake Lights 1965 Dodge Coronet

Hammer108

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Hey guys,
I am reposting this inquiry... as a new guy I posted it to the wrong area.

So here's my dilemma:
No brake lights
I've checked the brake switch (continuity shows it working)
Power from pink wires to brake switch is showing hot, white wire is not hot.
The dash light switch seems to be working correctly. The right rear blinker works however the left rear blinker does not. The left rear bulb is also fine, both elements are attached. The left rear blinker DOES not work but the left front blinker does work (in the bumper).
I checked the junction at the driver side foot well, that feeds the trunk lights etc. All connections are good. However when testing the bulb wires (blinker/brake) at this junction, this wire does not show hot. I'm a novice here but the dark green wire should have my test light blinking like a blinker, BUT it does not. If I recall right, the black wire in this junction shows hot on my test light.
I tested the dark green wire at the base of the steering column, wire diagram shows it goes there too, and it too is NOT hot...

I've jumped the brake switch at the pedal, no luck in lighting the brake lights. The blinker switch (round aluminum object behind dash) makes the ole' blinker noise, when blinker is engaged for left and right turns.

I am thinking it might be the switch in the column, but not 100% sure.

Any other suggestions for this? And can I run my own wire to the trunk to light the brake bulbs?
Again rear park lights and passenger rear blinker all work! But no brake lights....
Headlamps, low and high, all work. Reverse lights work, dash dimmer works, dome light works at the door switch and at the dash light switch.
Thanks for any assistance
-The New Guy
 

68gtxman

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Hey guys,
I am reposting this inquiry... as a new guy I posted it to the wrong area.

So here's my dilemma:
No brake lights
I've checked the brake switch (continuity shows it working)
Power from pink wires to brake switch is showing hot, white wire is not hot.
The dash light switch seems to be working correctly. The right rear blinker works however the left rear blinker does not. The left rear bulb is also fine, both elements are attached. The left rear blinker DOES not work but the left front blinker does work (in the bumper).
I checked the junction at the driver side foot well, that feeds the trunk lights etc. All connections are good. However when testing the bulb wires (blinker/brake) at this junction, this wire does not show hot. I'm a novice here but the dark green wire should have my test light blinking like a blinker, BUT it does not. If I recall right, the black wire in this junction shows hot on my test light.
I tested the dark green wire at the base of the steering column, wire diagram shows it goes there too, and it too is NOT hot...

I've jumped the brake switch at the pedal, no luck in lighting the brake lights. The blinker switch (round aluminum object behind dash) makes the ole' blinker noise, when blinker is engaged for left and right turns.

I am thinking it might be the switch in the column, but not 100% sure.

Any other suggestions for this? And can I run my own wire to the trunk to light the brake bulbs?
Again rear park lights and passenger rear blinker all work! But no brake lights....
Headlamps, low and high, all work. Reverse lights work, dash dimmer works, dome light works at the door switch and at the dash light switch.
Thanks for any assistance
-The New Guy
Good job checking g all those places! This is how to discover where the problem is and most guys don’t even try doing this, so kudos to you!
In my experience, this type of problem is usually in the switch behind the steering wheel. You’ll have to pull the steering wheel and test the switch.
 

Hammer108

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Good job checking g all those places! This is how to discover where the problem is and most guys don’t even try doing this, so kudos to you!
In my experience, this type of problem is usually in the switch behind the steering wheel. You’ll have to pull the steering wheel and test the switch.
Would this switch be where all the steering column wires run too? I have pulled the steering wheel before all of this. The prior owner replaced the white plastic part that turns off the blinker (as best as I can describe it)
I have like 7 or 8 wires running up the steering column. I pulled it to check his work. I did not run a test light on any thing in the steering wheel hub.

Thanks for the quick responses!
-Henry
 

Darter6

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The white plastic part is the signal canceler.
Hammer, Usually the problem is the turn signal switch as the brake lights run thru the turn signal switch.
Look up "mymopar.com" for a view of the 1965 wiring diagram .
Better yet get a repop 1965 service manual for the other bugs that tend to pop up in old cars.
 

Hammer108

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Would this switch be where all the steering column wires run too? I have pulled the steering wheel before all of this. The prior owner replaced the white plastic part that turns off the blinker (as best as I can describe it)
I have like 7 or 8 wires running up the steering column. I pulled it to check his work. I did not run a test light on any thing in the steering wheel hub.

Thanks for the quick responses!
-Henry
upload_2022-4-8_9-24-13.png

would this be that switch? This is what I saw, the gold plunger is the horn switch, its got a short spring behind it.... And I believe that's the dark green wire feeding the rear driver side blinker.... Anyway maybe this will fix the "no brake light issue".
 

Darter6

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The blinker switch (round aluminum object behind dash)
Better known as the "flasher".
I've jumped the brake switch at the pedal, no luck in lighting the brake lights
So no hot when testing ? The switch just completes the hot circuit to the brake light bulbs and goes to ground at the bulbs. You can apply a hot lead to the switch wire to see if the bulbs then light.
 

Hammer108

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Better known as the "flasher".

So no hot when testing ? The switch just completes the hot circuit to the brake light bulbs and goes to ground at the bulbs. You can apply a hot lead to the switch wire to see if the bulbs then light.

The pinkish colored wires that come from the switch, two of them tied together, are hot. The other wire from the brake switch is not hot, I think its white in color.
 

Hammer108

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Better known as the "flasher".

So no hot when testing ? The switch just completes the hot circuit to the brake light bulbs and goes to ground at the bulbs. You can apply a hot lead to the switch wire to see if the bulbs then light.

A continuity test on the brake switch showed the brake switch is ok.
 

Darter6

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If you use a jumper between the 2 pink wire connector to the other (white) wire connector and the brake bulbs do not light, the circuit must be open in the turn signal switch.
That's the best I can tell you without having a wiring diagram .
 

Hammer108

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If you use a jumper between the 2 pink wire connector to the other (white) wire connector and the brake bulbs do not light, the circuit must be open in the turn signal switch.
That's the best I can tell you without having a wiring diagram .

Yes I did jump them. No luck in lighting the brake lights.
So maybe it is the turn signal switch.... Thanks again.
Luckily these parts are relatively cheap and available :)
 

Darter6

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The photo of the turn signal you provided is the good one with a roller for the horn.
The pin type aren't the greatest and need frequent lube or they start to squeak when turning the wheel.
 

Hammer108

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The photo of the turn signal you provided is the good one with a roller for the horn.
The pin type aren't the greatest and need frequent lube or they start to squeak when turning the wheel.

I noticed that's what is current in the steering column. In looking at the wiring diagram plus chats on here, I didn't think to test anything inside the column. It all appeared in order. I will try to take it all apart as the new turn signal piece should be here next week. I'm thinking when the previous owner replaced the white plastic turn signal piece, something must've came lose or broke. One of the previous owners removed the quick disconnect at the bottom of the steering column, butt connecting all 7/8 wires. Now I can't even remove the steering column without cutting the wires. So I have new connections coming to make this process easier should it need to be done in the future and a little cleaner looking too.

Thanks!
-Henry
 

Hammer108

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I know all of you have been waiting with baited breath on what is going on with my car....

Well thanks to all for your input. It was the turn signal switch inside the steering column/horn area. If you don't know but there are several plastic pieces with a paper gasket and several small strands of copper lines. The copper lines make contact with several of the wires feeding this switch. And when you push up or down with the signal arm (left/right signals) small pieces make contact with the copper wires, making a connection and lighting a bulb for right or left turns. When mine was selected for left turns, the copper connections were so worn out, it was providing no contact. In wiggling the contacts, I have a left rear turn signal and the brake lights lite up.
Now I am waiting on a new turn signal switch. Thanks to all who assisted and offered advice. Be safe, Henry
 

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