No brake lights or turn signal still have me in a rut

[Mason]

So I've made a thread recently about not having any brake lights and no turn signal on the passenger side, I have lowered my steering column down again and moved the wires around and checked for pinched wires, none that i could find and im still in the same situation. However, I did realize when I have my running lights off, that the drivers side turn signal works just fine as well as hazards but the passenger side I have nothing. When I have my running lights on both tail lights are working and the drivers side turn signal works but is extremely weak and i get no signal from the passengers side Would this give me the answer to just having to replace the turn signal switch? And if the turn signal switch is bad, would this keep my brake lights from coming on? By the way i have moved my steering column around and have noticed corrosion dust almost like snow coming out from the column. Any feedback would be super helpful! I have a 70 Coronet

 

[davek]

ground one of the pass signals socket and see what happens. I believe you have a bad ground.

 

[Mason]

ground one of the pass signals socket and see what happens.

Yeah I was just about to try that, thanks Dave

 

[lebshiff21]

Not sure how similar the fuse boxes are from my ‘65 coronet to yours but I had similar issues and it was the top side of it (opposite the fuses).

 

[Mason]

Not sure how similar the fuse boxes are from my ‘65 coronet to yours but I had similar issues and it was the top side of it (opposite the fuses).

Would my fuse box still be affected even though i still have running lights for the rear?

 

[Shorthorse]

It might help to isolate the complete circuit. Disconnect the 6 pin plug (rear wiring harness) under the drivers side kick panel and check for voltage on the brown wire with the brakes applied. The brown wire is the lead for the right brake/signal element. If you have good voltage there look toward the rear wiring. If you don't, look toward the turn signal switch.

 

[moparjohnny]

It might help to isolate the complete circuit. Disconnect the 6 pin plug (rear wiring harness) under the drivers side kick panel and check for voltage on the brown wire with the brakes applied. The brown wire is the lead for the right brake/signal element. If you have good voltage there look toward the rear wiring. If you don't, look toward the turn signal switch.

mason, i had that problem a few years ago after i bought a roadrunner my harness was very old, so i just bought new a new turn signal switch and rear harness connected it up and my problem went away for me.

 

[miller]

Would this give me the answer to just having to replace the turn signal switch?

PITA! But, just so you know, I've read some problems about turn signal switches (aftermarket), that it was found they were wired wrong. Not saying that's it, but keep it in mind.

If you study the wiring diagrams, circuit by circuit, you'll see how some are connected together, and can affect how they work, or don't.
Assuming you know about the wiring, and connectors, behind both kick panels.

Chasing down electrical problems is no fun. But, has to be done, to get things back up.

 

[Mason]

It might help to isolate the complete circuit. Disconnect the 6 pin plug (rear wiring harness) under the drivers side kick panel and check for voltage on the brown wire with the brakes applied. The brown wire is the lead for the right brake/signal element. If you have good voltage there look toward the rear wiring. If you don't, look toward the turn signal switch.

Alright that sounds like a good idea, appreciate the help

 

[Mason]

mason, i had that problem a few years ago after i bought a roadrunner my harness was very old, so i just bought new a new turn signal switch and rear harness connected it up and my problem went away for me.

Yeah it seems like alot of the b bodies from the late 60s and 70 had these type of problems, thanks for the info johnny I might just go ahead and buy that new switch, dont think i have to replace the harness just yet since the running lights are bright in the rear, all the signals use the same wiring element. Thanks again

 

[Mason]

PITA! But, just so you know, I've read some problems about turn signal switches (aftermarket), that it was found they were wired wrong. Not saying that's it, but keep it in mind.

If you study the wiring diagrams, circuit by circuit, you'll see how some are connected together, and can affect how they work, or don't.
Assuming you know about the wiring, and connectors, behind both kick panels.

Chasing down electrical problems is no fun. But, has to be done, to get things back up.

Yeah you're right about that, its all original wiring so i dont think ill have to worry about aftermarket stuff, i bought this thing in a field for 2 grand lol, ill check the voltages in the wiring behind the kick panel, thanks miller

 

[miller]

Yep, lol! My 64 sat in a corn field for seven years!

On those aftermarket turn signal switches, think the wired wrong bit, was at the flat harness connector, not at the switch itself. Six or more wires...just one in the wrong location, will give you fits. Color coded wires, from male to female connectors, should match up, if you still can't find anything.

 

[Mason]

Yep, lol! My 64 sat in a corn field for seven years!

On those aftermarket turn signal switches, think the wired wrong bit, was at the flat harness connector, not at the switch itself. Six or more wires...just one in the wrong location, will give you fits. Color coded wires, from male to female connectors, should match up, if you still can't find anything.

No kidding these cars cant last too long out in the elements lol, mine barely made it for the 20 years it was out there. But figured out my problem and it was the simplest thing on earth!

 

[Rockland71GTX]

Get yourself a Chassis Service Manual from mymopar.com, it will help you immensely.
You can test the turn signal switch to see if that is the problem.
The white wire is the brake feed in, and should have continuity to the dark green and brown wires when the hazard switch and turn signal switches are off.
The pink wire is the feed from the hazard flasher, so when the hazard is switched on there should be continuity between the pink wire, light green, dark green, brown, and tan.
The red wire is the feed from the turn signal flasher. It should show continuity to the brown and tan wires for right turn, and to the light and dark green for left turn.
Good luck!

 

[Mason]

Ok, so all my electrical besides my radio and horn work, i finally figured this thing out! I rented a steering wheel puller from autozone yesterday and got to my TSS, that was the most dirtiest and corroded thing on earth and i managed to take the cam off of it and clean the contacts inside and got it looking brand new after a couple hours, and after putting it in I still had the exact same problem! I went to the back and pulled the bulbs out and just had a gut feeling to fidget wth them and i got the drivers side to stop being weak and it worked fine, then i pulled out the passengers side and realized the copper contact on the brown wire was sunken into the plastic holder, too low for the lightbulbs contact to reach, i cracked the plastic and pushed it up (going to replace it soon) and messed around with it till it finally worked and everything was back to being a normal car lol, so next time u guys are having turn signal and brake light problems, make sure those light bulb seats are making contact and that the copper caps arent sunken in, Im going to need to replace mine so i would check your housing if youre having my problem, thanks again to all the feedback, this forum is definitely the best Ive ever seen