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No crank no start

StckweldinSteve

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so I did alot of work to the satellite this weekend. Replaced the Gas tank,fuel sending unit,ballast resistor, and tried to bypass my faulty neutral position sensor by grounding the prong on the solenoid.It has a new carb also. Long story long, now it wont even crank in neutral. I know that’s typically not a battery but it wasn't reading good so I replaced that too. No click no nothing. I have a clear fuel filter and it wasnt getting much of any flow. I took the line off just after the fuel pump and tried to start to see if anything flowed out.. nothing. Blew out both filters and still nothing.

Will run off ether to the carb and jumping power straight to the starter but dies immediately… I’m seriously Considering paying a pro to rewire the entire car. Its a mess. Sorry fpr all the details and thank you for any advice.
 
Man, there sure are a lot of these issues being mentioned here lately.
You’ll get some people suggesting that you use the SEARCH FUNCTION but in some cases, the problem you’re having seems unique and rare.
The issue with fuel could be as simple as a loose hose connection resulting in the fuel pump sucking air instead of fuel. It will pull whatever is lightest and fuel is heavier than air. A small crack or a loose hose connection may result in no fuel to the carburetor.
I didn’t see any mention of the carburetor you have but all carburetors have a vent. You can see the one on a Holley 600 just forward of the open choke plate.

9941C3D2-D5BA-415B-8A03-AEAAEE735AA7.jpeg


You can pour fuel in there to fill the primary circuit enough to start the engine.
Regarding the no crank issue, you can temporarily ground the starter relay like so:

EE3D4537-5F8C-4E3C-853E-24DF6F850D69.jpeg




B30B8360-2EE0-4963-8819-6655B5E6397A.jpeg


This will bypass the neutral safety switch.
Be sure you are in PARK or neutral!
 
Maybe the enine hasn't run enough to get the gas pumped up to the carb yet.

Do like kern dog says, fill the float bowl and get it going. What carb do you have? Show a photo and we can tell you where to fill the carb.
 
Man, there sure are a lot of these issues being mentioned here lately.
You’ll get some people suggesting that you use the SEARCH FUNCTION but in some cases, the problem you’re having seems unique and rare.
The issue with fuel could be as simple as a loose hose connection resulting in the fuel pump sucking air instead of fuel. It will pull whatever is lightest and fuel is heavier than air. A small crack or a loose hose connection may result in no fuel to the carburetor.
I didn’t see any mention of the carburetor you have but all carburetors have a vent. You can see the one on a Holley 600 just forward of the open choke plate.

View attachment 1646641

You can pour fuel in there to fill the primary circuit enough to start the engine.
Regarding the no crank issue, you can temporarily ground the starter relay like so:

View attachment 1646644



View attachment 1646645

This will bypass the neutral safety switch.
Be sure you are in PARK or neutral!
Sorry if I made a duplicate. Ive been looking in the service manual and googling but I don't have much of any in depth technical knowledge to speak of to address so many possible avenues so I figured it would be best to give as many clues as I could and let experience prevail. I got the car to learn on and getting your opinions is drinking from the fire hose. I’m going to try y'all's suggestions tomorrow.Thanks again.

IMG_2132.jpeg
 
Maybe the enine hasn't run enough to get the gas pumped up to the carb yet.

Do like kern dog says, fill the float bowl and get it going. What carb do you have? Show a photo and we can tell you where to fill the carb.
Thanks man! I have an avs2 Edelbrock and a 750 holley double pumper…I was swapping back and forth some to see if I got any different results. The Edelbrock is what usually stays on it. I’ll take a picture tomorrow. I’m pretty sure from memory that I know the vent on the Holley.
 
I got the car to learn on and getting your opinions is drinking from the fire hose.
If we're going down that route, we better enlist the help of @moparedtn ....the fire hose man. :lol:

so I did alot of work to the satellite this weekend. Replaced the Gas tank,fuel sending unit,ballast resistor, and tried to bypass my faulty neutral position sensor by grounding the prong on the solenoid.It has a new carb also. Long story long, now it wont even crank in neutral. I know that’s typically not a battery but it wasn't reading good so I replaced that too. No click no nothing. I have a clear fuel filter and it wasnt getting much of any flow. I took the line off just after the fuel pump and tried to start to see if anything flowed out.. nothing. Blew out both filters and still nothing.

Will run off ether to the carb and jumping power straight to the starter but dies immediately… I’m seriously Considering paying a pro to rewire the entire car. Its a mess. Sorry fpr all the details and thank you for any advice.
You possibly have no fuel at the carb, as well as a broken wire to the ballast resistor from the ignition key.

Another thing you can do instead of messing with wires to ground the starter - just jam a screwdriver blade between the bigger two terminals on the starter relay - the battery/starter feed on the big stud, and the next size down with the square washer under the screw. That saves messing with a key to start. If you try starting the engine like that, just turn the Ignition to ON first, making sure you're in Neutral or Park.
 
Another thing you can do instead of messing with wires to ground the starter - just jam a screwdriver blade between the bigger two terminals on the starter relay - the battery/starter feed on the big stud, and the next size down with the square washer under the screw. That saves messing with a key to start. If you try starting the engine like that, just turn the Ignition to ON first, making sure you're in Neutral or Park.

Yes...touch these two terminals with a screwdriver:

1713154144411.png


This will spin the starter over.
 
Geez....we need to form a little band of guys like the Garage Squad ....trip around and help people out with small issues. :lol:
 
If we're going down that route, we better enlist the help of @moparedtn ....the fire hose man. :lol:
Oh boy, I get to talk "shop". :)
Reminds me of a serious point on fire hoses, actually - other than those actual fire departments have,
I'd never trust the ones you typically see in businesses and such.

Hoses are supposed to either be pressure tested or replaced (per NFPA 1962 - the applicable "Code")
annually anymore (I can remember when that was more like 3 years...) - and I can about guarantee
any that you run across that are privately owned haven't been tested and are older.

There was a time when most of your larger manufacturing and distribution facilities would have trained
and designated "fire brigades" in each shift and there'd be hose racks and equipment distributed throughout
the facility.
Those days are long gone - a result of insurance underwriters changing to demanding total evacuations in
the event of fires (since companies stopped paying for training and maintenance of in-house fire brigades).
Most all such equipment has long been removed in plants these days - but if you see them in one now,
that rascal is a potential industrial accident waiting to happen (and it's quite violent when a hose blows;
been there, seen that).
 
Oh boy, I get to talk "shop". :)
Reminds me of a serious point on fire hoses, actually - other than those actual fire departments have,
I'd never trust the ones you typically see in businesses and such.

Hoses are supposed to either be pressure tested or replaced (per NFPA 1962 - the applicable "Code")
annually anymore (I can remember when that was more like 3 years...) - and I can about guarantee
any that you run across that are privately owned haven't been tested and are older.

There was a time when most of your larger manufacturing and distribution facilities would have trained
and designated "fire brigades" in each shift and there'd be hose racks and equipment distributed throughout
the facility.
Those days are long gone - a result of insurance underwriters changing to demanding total evacuations in
the event of fires (since companies stopped paying for training and maintenance of in-house fire brigades).
Most all such equipment has long been removed in plants these days - but if you see them in one now,
that rascal is a potential industrial accident waiting to happen (and it's quite violent when a hose blows;
been there, seen that).
I have seen the rusty water coming out of some fire hoses in buildings.....they don't get tested and flushed like they should in most places.
 
I have seen the rusty water coming out of some fire hoses in buildings.....they don't get tested and flushed like they should in most places.
Yep - so the underwriters now require the standard "gathering places and head counting" response to fire instead.
 
Do you have a volt/ohm meter
1 if you can jump the solenoid as stated above, thn the start side should be good.
2 the solenoid case needs a good ground to the body.
3 make sure all wire connectors are clean
4 make sure the neutral safety side is to a good ground. Car in Park or neutral of course
5 the wire ( yellow?) From ignition switch should have 12 volts when the key is turned to start. You could try touching a positive wire to the terminal.
6 do you have the wires going to the right connector
 
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