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No oil pressure when priming 440 after installing Milodon pan with external pickup...

phoenixv8

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As the title, I'm got a bit of a head scratcher that I'm turning to the hive mind for help with regarding no/very low oil pressure when priming the system before first start up of my 440 after replacing the oil pan

On the maiden test drive of my 70 Charger, I managed to smack the ever loving cr*p out of the bottom of my Milodon pan as it sat far too low. Too damaged to repair quickly or well enough to look decent, I turned to the internet and ended up ordering a Mildon 31580 pan as it sat higher than the previous one whilst retaining the 7 quart capacity with wings on either side. I ordered the pan through an export/import company here in the UK and waited. Unfortunately, they ordered the 31581 with external pickup. Not one to be daunted and with a tight deadline to meet a race weekend I decided to proceed with the external pickup and ordered the 440 Source oil pump cover and had an AN12 line made locally.

Having put it all together though, I wanted to do my due dilligence and prime the oil system before first fire since the new pan. However, there is barely any needle movement on the Autometer capilliary oil pressure gauge despite using the priming tool (in reverse so it's spinning counter clockwise)

So I'm wondering, have I missed a crucial step here??

I have nearly 10 quarts of brand new 20w50 in the engine at the moment which brings the level to just above full on the dipstick

The gauge ran up to 20psi for a little bit after I had packed the oil pump with petroleum jelly to try and induce the pump to draw

I am running the drill in reverse (counter clockwise) with the tool inserted all the way

I have the oil pressure regulator wound in about halfway (so that the nyloc nut has full thread contact on the threaded insert)

I have the correct oil pump and longer auxilliary shaft to drive it

The only thing I can think of potentially being an issue is that I don't recall plugging the old internal pickup hole when swapping over the pan, could this be a problem?


I know that plenty of guys are running this same setup and there is nothing special about mine so I'm hoping someone can help me

Many thanks

pan comparison.jpg


pump cover.jpg


new pan.jpg


new line.jpg
 
I would think that you would have to plug the internal pick up hole. Sorry, no experience on my end. For clearance, I went with the Road Race pan, internal pick up. Pain to install a windage tray and pan in car till you figure out the sequence!
Good luck !
 
Every time I have redone oil pan etc is I needed to crack the filter till it caught. I am running the same set up you have and that was all it needed.
 
I have the correct oil pump and longer auxilliary shaft to drive it

That is a stock pump. It does NOT use a longer shaft to drive it. Hell, it won't even fit the block properly !!


THIS IS DEFINATELY THE PROBLEM !!! The pump will just suck air without plugging that pickup hole.

VVVVVVVVVVV

The only thing I can think of potentially being an issue is that I don't recall plugging the old internal pickup hole when swapping over the pan, could this be a problem?
 
You DO have an option to dropping the pan to plug the pickup hole. Measure the pickup port in the block where it feeds the pump and insert a freeze plug of the appropriate size. Don't tap it in too deep - the port isn't very far up the bore.
 
AND ... ten quarts is WAY too much ... that's only a seven quart pan !!! Ten quarts will have your crank beating it into foam !!!
 
I thought that the pick up was pipe tapped threads. Freeze plug?
 
I have the correct oil pump and longer auxilliary shaft to drive it

That is a stock pump. It does NOT use a longer shaft to drive it. Hell, it won't even fit the block properly !!


THIS IS DEFINATELY THE PROBLEM !!! The pump will just suck air without plugging that pickup hole.

VVVVVVVVVVV

The only thing I can think of potentially being an issue is that I don't recall plugging the old internal pickup hole when swapping over the pan, could this be a problem?
It is a Melling M63HV pump. Definitely not stock as I fitted it myself and have the stock one squirreled away in a drawer. I mispoke when I mentioned a longer auxiliary shaft

The 10 quarts is just for priming. I overfilled deliberately when I wasn't making pressure at 7 quarts to rule out a low oil issue, the plan was to drain 3 quarts out before firing but as you've confirmed my suspicions about the internal oil pickup needing to be blocked, I'll be draining the lot before dropping the pan and fitting a 3/8 - 18 threaded plug

Thank you for the confirmation. I had a sneaky feeling it might be the issue but it's good to get others input
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm happy to report that after removing the oil pan and plugging the hole for the old pickup tube, I am reading pressure!
 
As the title, I'm got a bit of a head scratcher that I'm turning to the hive mind for help with regarding no/very low oil pressure when priming the system before first start up of my 440 after replacing the oil pan

On the maiden test drive of my 70 Charger, I managed to smack the ever loving cr*p out of the bottom of my Milodon pan as it sat far too low. Too damaged to repair quickly or well enough to look decent, I turned to the internet and ended up ordering a Mildon 31580 pan as it sat higher than the previous one whilst retaining the 7 quart capacity with wings on either side. I ordered the pan through an export/import company here in the UK and waited. Unfortunately, they ordered the 31581 with external pickup. Not one to be daunted and with a tight deadline to meet a race weekend I decided to proceed with the external pickup and ordered the 440 Source oil pump cover and had an AN12 line made locally.

Having put it all together though, I wanted to do my due dilligence and prime the oil system before first fire since the new pan. However, there is barely any needle movement on the Autometer capilliary oil pressure gauge despite using the priming tool (in reverse so it's spinning counter clockwise)

So I'm wondering, have I missed a crucial step here??

I have nearly 10 quarts of brand new 20w50 in the engine at the moment which brings the level to just above full on the dipstick

The gauge ran up to 20psi for a little bit after I had packed the oil pump with petroleum jelly to try and induce the pump to draw

I am running the drill in reverse (counter clockwise) with the tool inserted all the way

I have the oil pressure regulator wound in about halfway (so that the nyloc nut has full thread contact on the threaded insert)

I have the correct oil pump and longer auxilliary shaft to drive it

The only thing I can think of potentially being an issue is that I don't recall plugging the old internal pickup hole when swapping over the pan, could this be a problem?


I know that plenty of guys are running this same setup and there is nothing special about mine so I'm hoping someone can help me

Many thanks

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You do have to plug the old pick up
 
It's a shame that they sent you a pan with an external pickup! I have the same pan on my 440
and I drilled out my block for the 1/2" internal pickup and it all worked well. In hindsight, I should
have bought the Hemi 6 Quart pan and been done with it. The center link hits the back of that pan
really close to the drain plug. I had to weld a little "Blob" of weld to the passenger side lower ball
joint to decrease the turning radius of the car so it wouldn't smack the pan.
20231222_125940.jpg
20231222_130011.jpg
 
What model car ... I have a '69 RR and have zero clearance issues.
 
For future and for others. You can just plug the feed hole under the pump with a freeze plug. A lot easier than pulling the pan
Doug
 
Last edited:
What would you use to plug the hole? The only thing I could think of is cut a piece of 0.010 shim stock
in the shape of a gasket and don't punch the intake hole. Then put it together with another gasket. I
don't think that hole is threaded?
 
What would you use to plug the hole? The only thing I could think of is cut a piece of 0.010 shim stock
in the shape of a gasket and don't punch the intake hole. Then put it together with another gasket. I
don't think that hole is threaded?
Read the whole thread and you'll find the answer !!!
 
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