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No pressure to rear brakes 11" drums

I'll get you that master kit # that worked for mine in the am... or possibly later tonight if the box is in the shop.
 
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Can't find the box.. but I dug through my bills....

Raybestos MK474 Pro Grade master cylinder rebuild kit. Paid $16.45 CDN + $5.79 postage = $24.44 CDN is the one that worked for mine. Drums but I had a booster, but think it's the same Master cylinder as yours.

Nobody seems to have Raybestos stock but on EBag at $48US... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-Repair-Kit-Element3-Raybestos-MK474-/383840916529

This is supposed to be the Dorman replacement.. but doesn't appear to come with the check/residual valves for the line ports.. so I'd go with the Ebay Raybestos one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Mast...081493&hash=item46bbf2999d:g:Uu8AAOSwdZdbl-Yq
 
Thinking about it now, I think I'm going to order up 4 wheel cylinder kits & take one apart tomorrow. If the master cylinder looks that bad, the wheel cylinders can't be that good either.
There goes an originality point.

Rock Auto usually has that stuff dirt cheap.
 
Thinking about it now, I think I'm going to order up 4 wheel cylinder kits & take one apart tomorrow. If the master cylinder looks that bad, the wheel cylinders can't be that good either.

Good Plan.... Original is neat, but if your gonna drive it safety is more important... I've known of a few original cars that got wrecked because the brakes failed...
 
Wheel cylinders honed, rebuild kits inside and all is still OE. Same with the master HE's PUTTING BACK on! lol

We never even pulled wheel cylinders off a car to hone them for rebuild kits when I was a teen. No reason to..
 
Hate the end covers on those wheel cylinders. Imagine they seal better than the ones slip on into a groove. Curious to see the insides of wheel cylinders.
 
Hate the end covers on those wheel cylinders. Imagine they seal better than the ones slip on into a groove. Curious to see the insides of wheel cylinders.

The older type are stiff as all get out. The new ones are floppy junk. I rebuilt my cylinders and kept the originals as they were in nice condition. I even got older, made in the USA rebuild kits when I ordered through Rockauto.
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Use to be you could buy just the cups, no end cover, no spring expander... Shop I worked at had those cardboard parts pins with cups from 5/8-1 1/4..
 
I cleaned up the master a bit and there's some good pitting in the bottom of the cylinder. Looks like it'll have to be sleeved.
 
Id follow MoparLeo"s advise post #11. I rebuilt a lot of wheel cylinders and calipers back in the day but on cars were I was unsure of how old the cylinder was, how many times it had been honed, I would replace it and remember back then aftermarket meant still meant made in USA.
That entire braking system needs to be gone over as its contaminated. Id replace all the brake hoses and lines, clean and check the distribution block and don't forget the block on the rear that feeds each wheel. Originality is understandable but safe brake system that will stop a car in a emergency situation is a little more important
 
I cleaned up the master a bit and there's some good pitting in the bottom of the cylinder. Looks like it'll have to be sleeved.
Bet wheel cylinders are rough do'em all and be done with it. Your probably thinking the same.
 
I cleaned up the master a bit and there's some good pitting in the bottom of the cylinder. Looks like it'll have to be sleeved.

There is a place online that sleeves them in brass or stainless. I can't remember at the moment but was going to have mine done before I went to front discs.
 
Again, don't shortcut the brake system. Just be logical about it. It is a system and what affects one thing/part affects the rest. If the rubber lines are bad, what do you think the condition of the insides of the metal lines will be. And if you insist on using the old lines, flush every thing with new fluid BEFORE you attach the wheel cylinders or any debris in the lines will get into the new/rebuilt hydraulic components.

And to those changing to DOT 5, you need to completely flush the system with denatured Alcohol.
 
Had wheels cylinders done in brass. They put in note run DOT 3 only, Do not use DOT 4. No explanation.
 
DOT 4 has more corrosion inhibitors than DOT 3 and starts out with a higher boiling point but is extremely hygroscopic and absorbs moisture very quickly which lowers the boiling point back down. It is used primarily in some types of racing where the brakes are used a lot generating high fluid temps. It needs to be changed often and can degrade some brake components.
 
Again, don't shortcut the brake system. Just be logical about it. It is a system and what affects one thing/part affects the rest. If the rubber lines are bad, what do you think the condition of the insides of the metal lines will be. And if you insist on using the old lines, flush every thing with new fluid BEFORE you attach the wheel cylinders or any debris in the lines will get into the new/rebuilt hydraulic components.

And to those changing to DOT 5, you need to completely flush the system with denatured Alcohol.
I just found something out about that unless every rubber part is changed dont go silicone fluid. One drop of dot 3 (ie in the rubber parts already) is enough too contaminate the whole system and it will drastically swell the rubber, seriously.
 
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