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NV3500 In B-Body

kb67mopar

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Alright guys, anybody who has followed my build knows by know I put an NV3500 5-speed behind my hemi in my Coronet. Now while I haven't been on any long drives or tested its longevity I can tell you it works and moves the car. With that said I wanted to share some details for anybody who may want to do this on their own.

The transmission is readily available at salvage yards and came behind 318's in Dakotas 96ish through 2003. Some later year v6 trucks too. They have the small block bell-housing cast into the case so no need to buy a separate part here. I paid $450 for mine with a 90 day warranty. Take note, after around 2000 they stopped providing the speedo cable output so make sure if you want to run your speedometer to get one with the cable output (wish I had noticed this).

For a clutch and flywheel I used stock parts from a 2005 Dodge Ram 2500 with the NV4500 and Hemi. This clutch works perfectly with the transmission, is inexpensive (thanks amazon) and even has the right throw-out bearing.
The dust shields for the transmission are also the same as the Ram 2500 and you need two parts, one is the cast aluminum structural dust cover and the sheet metal shield. Total from the dealer around $40 for those two parts.

For clutch actuation I used the hydraulic components from the 2001 Dodge Dakota. The master cylinder will bolt in the stock location with the addition of two holes and you will have to modify the pedal to adapt to the rod or the rod to the pedal, your choice. If you buy the parts separate and need to put them together with a line, summit racing sells http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-641001/ these adapters to allow you to use a -4 AN hose. The slave cylinder in my case needed an extra 1.2" of rod length to provide full clutch throw, a trip to Menards and 5/16" bar stock made this pretty easy..took more time then anything to figure out the length.

There was no cutting needed to the floor of the car, I was able to fit it in there with just making a new rear mount and 2 notches into a couple of transmission ribs.

For the drive shaft, the stock slip yolk from my 3 speed manual actually works in the transmission. I cut two shafts and welded in an extra 3" to make it fit....this is for yard driving only, you will need to spend some money and have one custom made to your measurements.


Overall this swap went pretty well and was WAAAY cheaper then any other transmission swap. However, a word of caution, this transmission is not rated for big power. On paper they say 300 ft-lbs. My car is going to be a street driver with a stock 3G Hemi. This should live behind here pretty comfortably. If you plan to make 11 second passes down the strip with sticky tires you need the T-56 or TR6060.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask, you can do this with a 318 car, 340 car...they will bolt to this trans too. Overall I think this is an excellent trans to put in one of our cars for a cruiser or town tourer.

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I have driven it around a little bit on my street (not ready for a further trip yet) and so far I have to say it feels pretty good. No complaints so far.
 
do you have any specs on the cross member you built?

I was planning to do a simular swap on a 71 charger I got this spring. It was a 318 auto car, I have a magnum 5.2 and 5 speed from a 96 2wd ram, I have the truck so have anything I should need, just need to build the cross member for the tranny and I should be set.

how did teh tranny hold up to teh 5.7?
 
do you have any specs on the cross member you built?

I was planning to do a simular swap on a 71 charger I got this spring. It was a 318 auto car, I have a magnum 5.2 and 5 speed from a 96 2wd ram, I have the truck so have anything I should need, just need to build the cross member for the tranny and I should be set.

how did teh tranny hold up to teh 5.7?

Well the cross member I just kind of built with the trans in place. You will have to see how things work out once you bolt the motor in place and fit things up.

I haven't street driven it since its still at my painters and need a balanced driveshaft. So no data on longevity. Also 1st gear is pretty short even with 2.94 rear gears so if you are looking to drag race this probably isn't the best trans....but otherwise still no complaints and the price is right!
 
Mines just a cheap daily driver, not gonna be racing it.

For me I like the low first and wide gears do I can have a highway friendly axle ratio and keep low speed grunt. Had a mustang with 2.73 axle on highway it was just off idle got great mileage. Prob was with the first gear even always wanted to break lose when starting out.
 
Yeah first gear is way short for sure...but it does make for easy tire smoke

I am going to give the 2.94 rear a shot as is and maybe jump to my 3.23 setup. The trans I picked up seems a bit week in the 1st to 2nd synchro so going to the 3.23 would make it 1st into crawler low and 2nd into my normal 1st gear....essentially would end up a 4 speed with 4th as OD.

But we will see how that all works out once I get my final rubber choice on it and all back together.
 
360 la block 84 model, what will I need If I put a 360 la pressure plate ,, what size ,, 11 inch ? and what else will i need. has a pilot hole about 5 /8 inch dia going deep into the crank. to install a 3500 I rather use it than an old 80s truck trans.

will have to use the flywheel for the engine 360 la but dont anthyng about the pressure plate needed clutch plate,
 
Nice Job kb67mopar !!! someday would love too try this as well....I like a little new and little old... makes for one unique Build !!!
 
hmmm I put a nv4500 in my 90 dodge ram diesel and that thing was f**king heavy!!! works good though...
 
I think for the Diesel it's a different trans...he's using one out of a 318 truck

hmmm I put a nv4500 in my 90 dodge ram diesel and that thing was f**king heavy!!! works good though...
 
Wonder what the power rating for the diesel 5/6 speed is ? Might be another option for a big block car ?
 
The NV3500 is only 100 lbs...but the big boy NV4500 is way heavier...and would never fit without huge floor mods. I'd stay away from the big truck trannies....you are also better off price wise going alternatively.

DrDodge...not sure what you should do for a clutch plate. I'd say look at a 318 clutch and see if it would bolt to your 360 plate. I'd venture a guess that a 360 clutch from a 2500 series pickup with an NV4500 should work....I am using a 2500 series clutch from a 5.7 hemi in an 05 ram 2500 with a NV4500 to make this work...spline count is 10 and were both the same between the 3500 and 4500.


I've got 700 miles on this setup so far and like it a lot...21 mpg with the 5.7 and so far the only issue is the weak synchros between 1st and 2nd....not sure if this is from prior wear or just the heavy clutch. I suspect the previous owner of this trans may have been that culprit. (nothing a little double clutching can't cure).
 
hey,

Im new here and I was wondering if you could list all that went into the nv3500 swap....

I have a 66 charger with a 318 poly/torqueflite and I want that shifting action if a manual. I have a set of pedals but that's about it.

help a brother out if you could???
 
The NV4500 would not be a good car trans as I have had three in various pickup trucks. It would more than handle the torque but, long throw, very large and heavy.
 
Can the nv3500 be put behind a 383?
Its a cast on small block bell housing.

- - - Updated - - -

hey,

Im new here and I was wondering if you could list all that went into the nv3500 swap....

I have a 66 charger with a 318 poly/torqueflite and I want that shifting action if a manual. I have a set of pedals but that's about it.

help a brother out if you could???

I never saw your post until now. For a 318 poly I'm thinking you'd need the flywheel, clutch, and transmission from a 318 powered Dakota. As well as the clutch master and slave cylinder setup. Then bolt it on and make a new rear mount. Not sure how tunnel clearance will be with stock engine mounts. I had made my own and fit the trans first. Slip yolk is the same as a 727 or 4 speed/3speed.
 
Thanks man,

I will look into that, I really do not want to shift or change the position of the motor. how much modification of the trans tunnel did you have to do? I assume there will be some cutting of the floor for the shifter....
 
Thanks man,

I will look into that, I really do not want to shift or change the position of the motor. how much modification of the trans tunnel did you have to do? I assume there will be some cutting of the floor for the shifter....

I modified nothing....I just cut the hole for the shifter and kept the patch in case I ever needed to put it back. I think I cut about 1/4-1/2" notch in one of the transmission ribs on the tail housing but that was all the more clearancing of anything I did. But like I said, I fit the trans first and engine second. I am not sure where my engine sits compared to where it would sit in a stock B-body. But hey if you buy the trans, tilt the engine back, bolt it on quick and jack it up in place with the shift tower removed. You will quickly find any issues in fitment. I kept the tail shaft 3 degrees down for u-joint happiness.

Two notes:
1) you can buy a complete running Dakota donor with a V6 or V8 pretty cheap. V6's started coming with the NV3500 in later years as well...just pay attention to which transmission it has and you will have all the parts and sell off the rest.
2) somewhere in the late 90's -2000's they removed the speedo cable from the transmission. Earlier years had the cable output. If you plan to use a stock speedometer you will want to ensure it has the cable. I ended up using a GPS speedometer because of this oversight.
 
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