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Odd oil pressure problem

VFilms

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I need some help with an oil pressure problem on my 318A engine.
Last week while priming my POLY with a drill and priming tool I initially got 50 lbs pressure but quickly dropped off to about 20 lbs then down to about 10 lbs. I also found I had very little oil to the top end. Gary Pavlovich spent an hour on the phone with me and we ran down some of the possibilities. We looked at the galley plug in the distributor area just above the cam gear and it was installed. But after running down a check list we determined that as some oil was getting up to the rocker shafts the oil galleys were open and I would probably be okay. Perhaps the drill I was using to prime the system just wasn't rotating at a high enough speed.
The engine has sat for 5 years after a complete rebuild, and new cam, while I built the car. Finally, I fired it up yesterday and found I had little to no oil pressure. Aside from the obvious chattering of the rockers there was no lower end noise and the engine ran smoothly. But showing no pressure I quickly shut it down.
Here are the particulars and I'm hoping someone can make sense of all the inconsistencies.

- Initially I installed an electric Autometer pressure gauge. Thinking the gauge may be faulty I installed a mechanical gauge. Started the engine and barely got 5 lbs pressure on the mechanical gauge.
- There seemed to be air pockets in the clear plastic tubing going to the gauge and not a steady stream of oil in the tube.
- I removed the oil filter and it was half full of oil. I filled it and reinstalled it. I had already replaced the oil filter plate gasket with a newer thicker gasket as the original gasket was leaking.
- Started the engine and no improvement.
- I pulled the distributor and intermediate shaft.
- Primed the engine with a drill and still very little pressure and still what looks like air in the gauge tube that move back and forth in the tube.
- Removed the tube from the gauge and primed the engine hoping to bleed the tube. Still have what looks like air pockets in the clear plastic tube and the oil just dripped from the tube into the cup I was using to catch the oil. No steady stream.
- Reinstalled the tube to the gauge and ran the drill. The oil pressure went up to 40 lbs but quickly dropped to about 20 lbs. Still saw air in the tube.
- Ran the drill for about a minute and kept about 20 lbs BUT the needle would fluctuate slightly - bounced between 20 and 25 lbs. Still there seems to be air in the tube that moves back and forth.
- I have not removed the valve covers to check for oil to the rockers.
- I have not reinstalled the distributor as I do not want to restart the engine to break in the cam and lifters until I get this figured out. Any and all thoughts are welcome and appreciated.
 
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One issue that can cause low oil pressure, especially after an engine rebuild is forgetting to install the small (~1/2"-9/16") freeze plug under the rear main cap. This plug diverts oil thru the oil filter instead of bypassing it. You can remove the oil sender and measure from the block, down to the plug. You should measure about 7.5" to 7.6875" (7 11/16") to the plug from the top. If you don't feel the plug, it is missing and needs to be installed from the oil pan/main cap side.

oil plug 2.jpg
Oil Plug Text (2).jpg
 
One issue that can cause low oil pressure, especially after an engine rebuild is forgetting to install the small (~1/2"-9/16") freeze plug under the rear main cap. This plug diverts oil thru the oil filter instead of bypassing it. You can remove the oil sender and measure from the block, down to the plug. You should measure about 7.5" to 7.6875" (7 11/16") to the plug from the top. If you don't feel the plug, it is missing and needs to be installed from the oil pan/main cap side.

View attachment 1187731 View attachment 1187736
Thanks. Is this the plug you are referring to?

plug.jpg
 
Thanks. Is this the plug you are referring to?

View attachment 1187741
Yes it is, but even though it is there, it kind of looks too close to the main cap parting line. It should be ~2.125" to 2.3125" (2 1/8" to 2 5/16") from the main cap parting line. Might just be an optical illusion though.
 
Yes it is, but even though it is there, it kind of looks too close to the main cap parting line. It should be ~2.125" to 2.3125" (2 1/8" to 2 5/16") from the main cap parting line. Might just be an optical illusion though.
Thanks. This photo is not of my engine. It was supplied by a POLY friend. I'll check the distance from the sender hole down as per your instructions.
 
I added info to my yes post if you can reread it.
Just pulled the sender and measured down. The plug is there and measures 7 9/16” to the block plane. Onward, I guess but thanks so much for helping
 
I would have thought it's maybe sucking air from the suction side of the pump.. pickup tube etc
 
You wouldn’t have an over abundance of cam lube or grease that has collected around you oil pump pickup in the 5 years that has been sitting? Used to see this when people used STP and Motor Honey in their engines without getting it thoroughly hot and mixed. Pump wasn’t packed with grease and plugging a passage? Or I’ve seen deep sump pans with standard pickups. New oil pump I presume? Just throwing out a couple of ideas.
 
You can get clearance issues between the oil pump and the head of the #5 main bolt. The points on the hex of the bolt wont let the pump set all the way flush to the rear main cap when using some style pumps. Either requires tightening the bolt 30 degrees or clearancing the pump body.
Doug
 
You wouldn’t have an over abundance of cam lube or grease that has collected around you oil pump pickup in the 5 years that has been sitting? Used to see this when people used STP and Motor Honey in their engines without getting it thoroughly hot and mixed. Pump wasn’t packed with grease and plugging a passage? Or I’ve seen deep sump pans with standard pickups. New oil pump I presume? Just throwing out a couple of ideas.
Thanks but no fluids were put in the engine for the time it sat. The engine was hot tanked and completely rebuilt so I’m guessing that all the oil passages were cleaned upon rebuild
 
You can get clearance issues between the oil pump and the head of the #5 main bolt. The points on the hex of the bolt wont let the pump set all the way flush to the rear main cap when using some style pumps. Either requires tightening the bolt 30 degrees or clearancing the pump body.
Doug

Check this for sure. factory pan and pickup?
 
At the risk of sounding like a complete idiot, which I'm not, and opening myself up to public ridicule, this is what I've found... so far. No oil.
As so many here have pointed to the pump and/or pick up, and @dvw 's post about the clearance issue at the #5 main bolt, I decided to drop the pan. When I pulled the drain plug a small amount of oil dripped out, perhaps 1 quart. WTF? I am positive I poured 5 quarts into the engine, I have the empties to prove it. So I probed inside of the pan for an obstruction but found none. When I dropped the pan I found maybe a quart still in the pan. This would certainly explain the pressure problem, the good pressure on initial priming, 60 lbs, that dropped off quickly as the pump sucked up all the oil in the pan. Also explains no oil to the rocker shafts.
So where did the oil go? I can account for about 2.5 quarts. I replaced the filter initially thinking the filter was bad, that's about one quart, and the quart that was in the pan, plus what drained out.
Upon inspection, the pump is fine and the pick tube is tight and in good shape.
I plan to pull the intake manifold tomorrow to further investigate, perhaps the fellow who built the engine left a shop rag or two in the lifter valley, either absorbing the oil or perhaps blocking the returns.
I greatly appreciate all the help you have all provided, as well as your time and diagnostics.
More to follow.
 
Have you looked under the valve covers? Sounds like your oil returns are clogged or you have a bad case of something:lol: really does sound like your oil is trapped up top. Or the oil is in your bellhousing inspection cover if one of the rear oil galley plugs were left out it would dump right in there.
 
Have you looked under the valve covers? Sounds like your oil returns are clogged or you have a bad case of something:lol: really does sound like your oil is trapped up top.
Yes. No oil to the heads so there's no oil trapped up there. But I believe you're correct. It has to be topside. Possibly the lifter valley.
This is a 318 Poly that has been bored .040 and a 4" Mopar crank installed. So anything is possible. Also, pulled the bell housing cover and everything is dry and clean. Rear main seems to be fine.
As for my 'bad case of something' I am being treated by a doctor, and progressing nicely, thank you.
 
I edited my post above check in the bellhousing as well. 4 speed?
 
I edited my post above check in the bellhousing as well. 4 speed?
727. Clean and dry. It has to be a problem somewhere in the lifter valley or returns. The engine was hot tanked, old school, but the shop may have missed something.
 
727. Clean and dry. It has to be a problem somewhere in the lifter valley or returns. The engine was hot tanked, old school, but the shop may have missed something.

Gotta be stuck up top somewhere then
 
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