Oil pan gasket - dry or RTV ?

[Skytrooper]

Ok, so yesterday afternoon, I installed the oil pan gasket, windage tray, 2nd gasket, and pan. I used a thin coat of RTV on each. When I tightened the pan bolts, the gaskets squeezed out between the bolts. I do not like the result, nor do I trust it not to leak. I never even got anywhere near torque (yes, I use torque wrenches) before they started coming out.

So, my question is...are they supposed to be installed dry ? The pan and windage tray did have RTV on them from the previous install. That was why I did it also.

The pan, 2 gaskets and windage tray is a tall sandwich. Thankfully the engine is out and on a stand. I cannot imagine trying this from underneath.

What say you ?

 

[Kern Dog]

I always use a sealant. Nowadays, I use this:

 

[408Swinger]

Might want to let it set up for 10 minutes before torquing. And because you have multiple layers to squish I would back off a bit on the inch/lbs.
Maybe snug them then torque them the next day ….

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Throw the gaskets in the trash and just use rtv…

 

[Wietse]

On the block i like to use some sealant due to the split between block and timing chain cover and rear seal cover.
I used a light coat of permatex on the block and pan and stick the gasket on and let it cure.
This will keep them gaskets in place during installation.
Regarding torquing them bolts, i use a small 1/4" ratchet and just make them hand tight when going around the pan rail in circles.
Once the engine has run and is warmed up just check once more, likely can give them another 1/4 turn or so.

 

[Geoff 2]

Post #4. Been doing that for 30 yrs....

 

[bandit67]

My tranny rebuilder guy still uses dry cork gaskets on his rebuilds. In the 10 to 12 units of his I have installed, and still have some, I have had no pan leaks from his work. He states both metal surfaces need to be clean, dry and not over tighten .

 

[snakeoil24]

Dry with a shot of Indian head sealer far better than silicone

 

[Don Frelier]

How tight did you torque them? should be about 15 ft/lbs (max) I tend to agree with going lower torque with double gaskets.
If you recall I used this except for areas with crevices like where the timing chain cover intersects there I used some RTV black.
And in that spot I do let it set up before tightening.

 

[4speed68rt]

Show us a picture of the "squeezed out" gaskets, please, so we know how much they are deformed.

 

[mrhemi]

I have been using Loctite 518 on all gaskets for years. It is particularly effective if you are replacing oil pan gaskets in the car. It will still cure if it get a drip of oil on it. RTV only at the juncture of the pan/rear main seal carrier and pan/timing chain cover.

LOCTITE 518

 

[bm02tj]

Dry fit to insure pan and windage tray are straight
clean with brake clean let dry
apply thin coat of RTV assemble just lightly snug let cure as long as you can
tighten by feel

 

[khryslerkid]

Ordered a Superformance gasket from Mancini. Just a 1/8 bead of Permatex Gasket maker on the pan, lay the gasket on, tied a few of the front holes with thread to keep the gasket in place for installation. Don't do a full torque on the fasteners. Wait the recommended time for proper setup then do the final torque with nothing more than a 1/4" drive socket and extension. This gasket won't squeeze out.

 

[gtxrt]

get the new windage tray from summit or jegs no gaskets needed. sum-G2339

 

[matthon]

I used that summit piece, nice, reusable, with new wider head bolts.
Uses a little rtv in the usual spots, timing cover to block, rear main to block.

On my a-body bb I cut out the tray as the factory oil pan is shallow and centered, at extremely high rpm oil pressure would drop a tad.

 

[Billccm]

I've had my oil pan off 5 times. Used blue silicone gaskets, cork gaskets, blue Fel Pro gaskets, and gaskets with RTV. All leak or seep at the timing cover. I'm tackling this again over Christmas and just using Toyota FIPG this time.
Run a bead on both surfaces, finger tight for 15 minutes, then torque using a pattern that tightens the corners last.
Wish me a Christmas miracle here.

 

[Skytrooper]

Dry fit to insure pan and windage tray are straight
clean with brake clean let dry

How tight did you torque them? should be about 15 ft/lbs (max) I tend to agree with going lower torque with double gaskets.
If you recall I used this except for areas with crevices like where the timing chain cover intersects there I used some RTV black.
And in that spot I do let it set up before tightening.
View attachment 1389678

apply thin coat of RTV assemble just lightly snug let cure as long as you can
tighten by feel

I did a dry fit of both windage tray and pan. Both looked great. I had flattened the holes on the pan prior to dry fit. I cleaned all mating surfaces with brake cleaner, then I put full beads of RTV on all surfaces as I stacked them. When I went out before bed to turn out the lights...I took a peek and was dismayed to see that they had squeezed out so much. I had only snugged them a bit, not even 5 Ft/Lbs. I am thinking that maybe it was too much RTV and it just made everything slip and slide.

So Don, are you saying dry gaskets with the sealant you use on just the metal surfaces ? RTV where the rear main and timing cover are ? I have to pull the timing cover too....same thing.

 

[Bee1971]

Superformance also

Reproduction 402 Oil Pan

Two gaskets with the factory windage tray

Dry 99% , little RTV on seams for timing chain cover and rear seal retainer

Not a drop since my engine rebuild five years ago

 

[Skytrooper]

Great ! dry it is ! Well, when the new gaskets arrive. now I need to get all the stuff off and ready to do again. I am glad the engine is out of the car on a stand !

 

[Don Frelier]

I put the high tack on both the gasket and metal surface as thin as possible.
Wait maybe 5-10 minutes for the glue to get really sticky depending on weather and assemble.
It's like contact adhesive so you do need to drop the gasket and pan on accurately or you have a problem.