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Ok you guys asked for it!!!!!!

cr8crshr

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Here is the video of the start up last Saturday of my 1966 Plymouth Satellite. Has a great sound except for that knocking which is not related to the motor. Just cannot find the source so if anyone has an idea, please share it. Seems to be coming from the tranny area as it stops in when in reverse. Video 2 will show that. Just listen though to that exhaust note as it is "WICKEDLY AWESOME".....:blob1::blob1::blob1::blob1:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD3ajR270uE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAs5NqGnUTw
 
i once had a knock like that on a start up after motor install and backed out convertor bolts and tightened back down and it went away. i thought one of the bolt heads might be slightly hitting starter shield.
 
Good lawd .... that thing sounds EVIL. What mufflers are you running on it?
 
I had a similar knock and it turned out to be a cracked flywheel. Somehow I cracked it on install.
 
If it is an automatic, i would check the flex plate. I had a cracked flex plate that made that sound. It will do it too if it is loose.

I'd check it SOON before stuff starts coming loose or gets worse - you might not like the result...

BTW, very sweet car - I love the look, and the magnum wheels make a great combo!
 
That looks sweet as can be, hope its nothing to serious! Get rid of the noise/problem the sound will match the car perfect! Good luck...
 
I once had something catching my flywheel and made that exact sound. I'd crawl under the car and put your hand against stuff and see if you can feel a vibration and pinpoint it. Don't put your hand on anything moving obviously hahaha. Mine turned out to be the flywheel cover got bent somehow when we where moving the car around. A little pry bar action and bam no knock.
 
Check the flywheel inspection plate. Mine was missing a bolt when I bought the car and I chased it for a month thinking it was engine related. My son finally found it as my hearing ain't what it used to be!!! Good luck on the hunt.
 
Sorry to rain on all of your parades people but here's a couple things. The tranny dust shield is removed from vehicle, so that's out. He had a heck of a time installing the starter with the starter shield on so we left it off, so that's out also. The noise is gone in R but is there in P, N, or D, so we are leaning towards something in the tranny. It does look badass though!

- - - Updated - - -

Good lawd .... that thing sounds EVIL. What mufflers are you running on it?

The Dynomax Super Turbo's that come with the TTI kit.
 
Wow, that's a nice looking car! Same color as my 66 hemi Bel. At least I know what mine is supposed to look like!

Since the possibility of the converter bolts or drain plug hitting the tin inspection cover is out, then this will require more thinking. Is the frequency of the noise matched to the engine RPM? This is very important to help ID what it could be. A frequency greater than crankshaft RPM indicates multiple points contacting one stationary feature. Example: 4 flex plate bolts hitting a high spot on the dust shield. A frequency equal to crankshaft RPM would be one flex plate bolt hitting one high spot. Just more to think about as you poke around. Good luck!
 
Thanks all and especially to 69A100...my best friend and Brother for adding some more to this issue. I am inclined to agree with most here that it is something related to the Torque Converter, Flex Plate and that general area. I had trouble when I had to re-build the motor this last time around getting the Flex Plate off of the Crank. I "tweeked" it in getting it off but was able to straighten it out...or at least I thought so...and then re-installed it. It had some 'flashing" on it that I cleaned up with a file...no grinding...but here is the kicker I think. I bought it from the eBag a number of years back and it was most likely a used piece. But at the time I was "cobbling" parts together as this car didn't come with a drive train. So...With that in mind, just for the sake of conversation, would you swap it out for a completely new one, and see if that is the culprit? It will be an "*** PAIN" to drop the tranny myself but I have a tranny shop that will look of the 727 and address the slippage issues I have with it. My thinking is, at that time they can replace the flex plate with the new one and then run their pressure, and shifting checks. Otherwise, I drop it and lay on my back...Man that S**T is getting old...to replace it. I would rather pay to have it done as opposed to my doing it myself, but I will if I have to. Also...I have been looking at some of the newer SFI Flex Plates, and although a little more pricey than the stock units, appear to be of better quality. Who here has experience with them, and what would your recommendations be? Torque Converter is a Stock set up. Although that also might be a culprit in this noise...:eusa_wall:
 
Back when I replaced my broken flex plate (340 with a 727), I managed to do it without dropping the tranny. It's been awhile, but I recall that I removed the converter bolts and then slid the converter back and then was able to get to the crank bolts. Installed the new one in reverse order.

Mind you, I remember inventing a few new curse words, but I didn't have to drop the tranny...
 
A new stock flex plate should work fine unless you plan to repeatedly thrash the drivetrain.

Good point about changing it without dropping the tranny. You might be able to pull the tranny back from the block just enough to get access. Maybe use long bolts as guide pins so you can slide it back together easily. Just drop the cross member to get the angle of the dangle correct.
 
Wish there was a way to de-couple the tranny from the motor and still start it to see if it is actually a tranny issue. Any ideas????
 
You know bro, you should with no problems as the flywheel/converter is already bolted to the motor. The tranny input shaft slides onto the converter.
 
Wish there was a way to de-couple the tranny from the motor and still start it to see if it is actually a tranny issue. Any ideas????

With the inspection cover off, I would just turn it over with the coil disconnected until you can see all four mounting ears of the flex plate. Check each bolt on each ear, and the metal around each ear of the flex plate. In my case, the metal failed very close to the bolt hole in the flex plate. In most cases, this is where it will fail. If you have a flex plate issue, this will most likely find it. Also, cranking the car over MAY also help you determine if something is hitting due to a clearance issue.

Like all trouble shooting, I'd start trying to remove possible sources of the problem. The flex plate is fairly easy to check with only removal of the dust plate needed...

Just my 2 cents...
 
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