One wire alt question

[Frankb]

I’m about to install Super Sniper FI, Hyperspark distributer, Holley ECU and coil. In addition I am going with a one wire alternator rated at 100 amps. Stock ignition, ballast, and voltage regulator will be eliminated. A few caveats:

Amp gauge is disconnected.

The stock alternator wire (R6-12-BK) is still connected to bulkhead connector at terminal P.

There is a wire from current alternator to starter relay stud.

All wires excluding under dash harness were replaced in about 2000. Bulkhead connector was also changed out at same time: they are all still good. There is no corrosion at bulkhead connector.

At the bulkhead connector, the engine wire harness attach fitting is broke and needs to be replaced. I have a new connector and factory type 56 connectors so I was going to make a new harness eliminating the unneeded wires for ballast, coil, and regulator. Because the Sniper needs constant keyed power, I was going to splice IGN1 and IGN2 wires together and run this wire to the Sniper. Connection will be with a GM type weather pack socket. Powermaster says only one wire to battery. My question: Is it ok to keep stock alt wire (R6-12-BK) connected to the alt? It would also still be connected to bulkhead connector. Or should this wire also be eliminated. If this wire is eliminated how will dash get power? Your Thoughts
Frank

 

[6-david-5]

I’m about to install Super Sniper FI, Hyperspark distributer, Holley ECU and coil. In addition I am going with a one wire alternator rated at 100 amps. Stock ignition, ballast, and voltage regulator will be eliminated. A few caveats:

Amp gauge is disconnected.

Did you hook the red & black 12g wires together when you disconnected the Amp gauge? Is that 100A 1-wire alternator already in-place?

The stock alternator wire (R6-12-BK) is still connected to bulkhead connector at terminal P.

There is a wire from current alternator to starter relay stud.

Tell us about this wire--is it one you added after installing the 100A, 1-wire alternator?

All wires excluding under dash harness were replaced in about 2000. Bulkhead connector was also changed out at same time: they are all still good. There is no corrosion at bulkhead connector.

At the bulkhead connector, the engine wire harness attach fitting is broke and needs to be replaced. I have a new connector and factory type 56 connectors so I was going to make a new harness eliminating the unneeded wires for ballast, coil, and regulator. Because the Sniper needs constant keyed power, I was going to splice IGN1 and IGN2 wires together and run this wire to the Sniper. Connection will be with a GM type weather pack socket. Powermaster says only one wire to battery. My question: Is it ok to keep stock alt wire (R6-12-BK) connected to the alt? It would also still be connected to bulkhead connector. Or should this wire also be eliminated. If this wire is eliminated how will dash get power? Your Thoughts
Frank

If you added a big wire to support the 100A alternator upgrade, and it is going from the new charging lug right to the starter relay stud--and the original A1B-10R from the battery terminal on the Starter Relay to the blue Fusible Link is still in place, AND you hooked the 2 ammeter wires together, then you have made the original black wire from the engine compartment bulkhead-on-out superfluous. You could eliminate the black 12g wire in this instance--or use it for constant-on 12V under-the-hood for a different purpose. If you use it on your already-rewired alternator, it would act as a "shunt circuit"--it simply would be in parallel with the other wire (starter relay-to-fuse link).

 

[6-david-5]

O yea.

If you eliminate the black wire under the hood, the dash will get power so long as you have connected the 12g red/black wires together from the back of the ammeter, and you have a connection from the fusible link to the battery lug on the starter relay.

I eliminated the ballast resistor on my Dart by using a Y adapter lead w/spade lugs--it came with my MSD 6AL. I connected the two sides of the loose ballast resistor connectors together with that Y-adapter--THIS is essentially connecting IGN 1 and IGN 2 together! There was a convenient lug at the single end of the Y, and I used that to attach switched power for the MSD, and Pertronix Igniter.

 

[matthon]

I placed a power hub under the dash and connected Ign 1 and 2, a voltmeter, and something else I can't recall.

I ran a wire with fusable link to the starter relay.
Cut out the original black charge wire from the alternator. Took the red wire from the starter relay and connected it to where the original black charge wire came into the car.
Disconnected ammeter. Removed red wire from bulkhead to ammeter.
Black wire to ammeter is now only hooked to my original accessory circuit breaker, but if you don't have one just dead end it.

 

[Frankb]

Thanks all. To clarify the red and black wires previously attached to amp gauge are spliced together(did this many years ago) and there is a fusiable link at terminal J that attaches to starter relay lug. I just want to eliminate as many unnecessary wires as possible and have a factory type 12v switched power wire installed in the new harness. Just wanted to make sure power would still be available inside the car without the factory alt wire connection at bulkhead terminal. Thanks.
Frank