original factory process for painting a car

[resq302]

ok guys, I'm starting the long process of stripping down my car for a complete restoration. While I am doing base / clear, what was the proper way the factory painted the car? I'm trying to emulate a factory type job with modern technology and paint process. I'm familiar with the dip tank system they had but I'm not too familiar with how they got the body color on. Was there a pit they were in or was the car raised up some what? This will be for my 69 GTX convertible.

thanks for the help.

 

[WileERobby]

Since you're using base/clear, you're not replicating the factory finish. Factory used acrylic enamel. Back then, we shot centauri enamel.

 

[resq302]

I know, and I also plan on using radial tires too when I'm not going for a strict point show. Base / clear holds up better in my opinion.

 

[slimt]

I know, and I also plan on using radial tires too when I'm not going for a strict point show. Base / clear holds up better in my opinion.

these days theres not much of a choice.. the days of Acrylic lacquers and Acrylic Enamels are fading away..

 

[Kern Dog]

The car bodies were assembled when painted.

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't know how the classics were done but the new cars are painted using an automated/robotic system. The hood, trunklid and doors are opened by machines and robotic machinery sprays the interior and jambs, then closes them for clear coat. No clear coat is sprayed under the hood, inside the door jambs or in the trunk area.

 

[mmissile]

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/misc/paint_booth_dodge_main_600.jpg

http://thecasualobserver.co.za/wp-c...s-of-enamel-paint-onto-the-shell-of-a-car.jpg

 

[WileERobby]

I don't know how the classics were done but the new cars are painted using an automated/robotic system. The hood, trunklid and doors are opened by machines and robotic machinery sprays the interior and jambs, then closes them for clear coat. No clear coat is sprayed under the hood, inside the door jambs or in the trunk area.

Incorrect, clearcoat is applied to those areas.

 

[493 Mike]

I just finished touching up the trunk lid due to rust at the front edge because the spray didn't cover the area originally. I would recommend you just do the best job possible, covering every square inch of sheet metal. If your not looking for show points. The finish will last longer and look better.
Mike

 

[WileERobby]

Many factory finishes consisted of Orange peel, runs, overspray, and bare areas.

 

[mmissile]

I painted GM limos, in the 80's. I worked for a coach-builder/Hess and Eisenhardt. We pretty much shot them like larger assembly lines, in full-on GM equipment. I generally shot 1/2 of 4 cars per night.

 

[vintage chromoly]

No clear coat is sprayed under the hood, inside the door jambs or in the trunk area.

Nonsense:

 

[zyzzyx]

I don't think anyone answered his question!

 

[Kern Dog]

Incorrect, clearcoat is applied to those areas.

Then explain why my 2015 Challenger is dull everywhere I mentioned. Same with every other late model Charger and Challenger. My 2007 Ram is dull under the hood and has been since new.

 

[kiwigtx]

Then explain why my 2015 Challenger is dull everywhere I mentioned.

Matt clear coat.

 

[khryslerkid]

Matt clear coat.

How do you know the painter's name???

 

[kiwigtx]

How do you know the painter's name???

I worked with him a lot.

 

[zyzzyx]

That's a "Groaner"!

 

[Kern Dog]

Matt clear coat.

That crossed my mind, but why? What would be the point of having two sheens of clear?

 

[69L48Z27]

That crossed my mind, but why? What would be the point of having two sheens of clear?

I can't say for sure on late model Mopar stuff but if clear is not shot heavy enough it will appear to be flatter than the outside. I can't image a factory switching clear sheens. I know the 4th gen F bodies (GM) had that flat appearing clear under the hood and that was just due to lack of materials sprayed.