Out of sight paint input appreciated

Color Match Bedliner, Single Stage or Chassis black


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Randall Miller

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Gents,
My 72 RR GTX is fully disassembled to deal with all it's rust and multiple paint and body work touch ups. I had it fully media blasted.

I'd like to change the color but I think the value is going back to original hemi orange as it is a # matching track pack car.

The question is about covering the floor and underside. The shop I'm working with has some skilled people but not Mopar guys. I personally own a Jeep CJ business and my Jeeps from the factory all look right with everything body color....wheel wells, floors, firewall, underside.

Mopar seems the same way....body color everywhere. I am not about spraying undercoating for the ultimate original resto. I want it to hold up and look sort of original...ish.

My floors are original but slight pitting underneath. My painter has concerns the pitting will stand out too much with orange paint underneath. I have gone through so much work and money to get here that I feel black for the chassis is a cop out and it will look like a used car dealer touch up job and not a full rotisserie build.

I have pics attached. I was thinking single stage orange for the inside floor and color match pro sprayed bed liner (like Linex or Rhino) for the underside, aprons and rear wheel wells.

I may very well hate this car when it is done and need to sell it as I never enjoy something I pay to much for....It was mis-advertised and I paid too much for it up front. It was supposed to be all original paint and no rust. It was maybe some original paint on the roof and some rot, bodo, fender change etc etc. Not a Midwest turd but light years from no rust or all original paint.

I might like it and try and enjoy it but more likely when I look at it I will see a big pile of cash and know that every time I drive it the wear will be taking value from it.

Finally to the question....single stage orange everywhere out of sight, black satin, or bedliner? What would be the most marketable?

FYI...The engine bay will be shiny body color.

Thanks,
Rudy

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JimKueneman

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I epoxy primed mine then skim coated it with glaze to fill in the pits and sanded smooth then final coat of epoxy and then paint. It does not take a lot of time since you are not looking for a mirror finish. A DA with 220 gets most of it smooth.
 

Randall Miller

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Thanks...I was thinking that. It isn't terrible underneath. Some areas slick new-like metal. Other areas...ehhh.
 

JimKueneman

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Thanks...I was thinking that. It isn't terrible underneath. Some areas slick new-like metal. Other areas...ehhh.

A high end restoration/show car will use filler in the trunk and on the underside to make it as smooth and flat as the exterior so it is nothing out of the ordinary.
 

493 Mike

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I added a gray toner to my Raptor bedliner to blend with the silver paint. I shot the bedliner and had very little overspray. Of course I will not be selling my 65 any time soon.
Mike
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eldubb440

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seal it all up with epoxy primer and let the overspray fly from painting the exterior......after dents and pits are repaired of course

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Randall Miller

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Thanks for the ideas and pictures. They are very helpful.

Eldubb440....would you spray the fender skirts and rear wheel wells with intention to cover or also overspray?
Rudy
 

eldubb440

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Thanks for the ideas and pictures. They are very helpful.

Eldubb440....would you spray the fender skirts and rear wheel wells with intention to cover or also overspray?
Rudy

I actually made an effort to get a little more coverage on the rear wheel wells behind the tires, but not much

up front where the suspension bolts, I also got better coverage but not 100% (i was already painting the hood compartment and hinge pillars) this yellow is very transparent; if you look closely, you can see where it is darker as the primer shows through a bit

back sides of fenders and front bumper filler got the epoxy/overspray to mimic the bottom

the car is covered for the next few days, but i will post up some extra pics for you....... as a whole, I think the underside view is pretty sharp

to take it a step further, I suppose 2 coats of a semi/matt clear would go very far in protecting the look....... I may do that to the next one..... everything is already over budget on this one and it was not my call

banana rebel.jpg


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Don selleck

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I based and cleared my underneath since it was chemically stripped, I have had a clear issue near my mufflers where its gotten hot, and since driving it a bit gets kinda beat up underneath behind the tires so I have since spray some SEM undercoat in those areas behind the tires under the car on the rockers, outside edge of floor pans, and the pinch welds, and inner fender wells. it does help fade the pinch weld out when your at a distance looking at the side of the car.
 

eldubb440

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Thanks for the ideas and pictures. They are very helpful.

Eldubb440....would you spray the fender skirts and rear wheel wells with intention to cover or also overspray?
Rudy

I edited/added to my comments a couple times, you may want to re-read it if you read it already..... thinking on the fly lol
 

Randall Miller

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Thanks gentlemen.
I appreciate the input on the clear cooking as my painter had suggested that. Hearing about the wear is also helpful. I also don't really want undercoating for some reason.
My shop lane is gravel and my tires are sticky and if I keep it, I will drive it.
 

eldubb440

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Thanks gentlemen.
I appreciate the input on the clear cooking as my painter had suggested that. Hearing about the wear is also helpful. I also don't really want undercoating for some reason.
My shop lane is gravel and my tires are sticky and if I keep it, I will drive it.

you can add some paintable gravel guard it those areas...... i would sandwich it between 2 layers of epoxy before paint........ as for the muffler heat, you can probably come up with some sort of protection in those areas........ that being said, the paint may burn a little, but the epoxy wont........ we are always faced with the "where to draw the line" question

once you undercoat, you are stuck with it......personally, I would hold off on that

they also make clear aerosol chip guard...... yet another option for the vulnerable areas
 
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eldubb440

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here ya go....... I'm thinking with a little clear chip guard in strategic areas, and a couple coats of matt clear; you'd be able to maintain it and wipe it clean whenever you want


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JDmac72chrgr

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Wasn't ziebart undercoating done at dealers during 70s? It would make sense that OH (vs AZ, NM, TX, etc...) cars had the option of undercoating so doing that to preserve all your work would be considered "original-ish": no harm, no foul. GOOD LUCK!! Hope to see it at Carlisle some day.
 

69SatelliteGuy

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Pretty sure my car has original (dealer) undercoat. It's a '69 originally from PA. I myself wouldn't use an undercoating unless you're positive you want it or want to drive the car a lot. I do a lot of VW stuff and those always had optional dealer undercoating. On my bug (Black) I used raptor liner in all of the wheel wells, under fenders, and on the floor pans. Black Rustoleum elsewhere. On my bus (Yellow) I plan on tinting raptor liner and spraying the underside. It too had dealer undercoating, but I like the body color.
 

Randall Miller

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Eldubb400 thank you for uncovering your work and taking the time and sending the extra photos and your advice.

Your work looks VERY good. It feels odd not to 'finish' it while its right there even though what you've done looks right.

In some way with your experience does it look 'less right' to cover everything?

I appreciate everyone's input about stoneguard and undercoat. I will not undercoat it. I am from Ohio and while perhaps right, it won't ever see salt and and that was always a regular use / service station kind of application.
 

HawkRod

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@eldubb440 did the bodywork on my car (and he knows what he is doing, BTW). He and I agreed to paint mine body color underneath (in my case Limelight). I know this is not factory correct but I love how it looks. Here is a picture of mine, taken shortly after paintwork was done, just for reference and to compare.

In my opinion, the most important thing is to do what you want. Don't build for resale unless you are a dealer and looking to immediately sell the car...

Hawk
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Randall Miller

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I can see and hear the expertise from the advice given and appreciate it immensely.

By the way, the green looks great as does the fade.

Perhaps a last question....if I do the fade/overspray direction, my current primer is black as shown in my first photos. It seems I need to advise towards a light grey?

Thanks,
Rudy
 
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