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Paint Help- Angle of Attack for Wet Edge

BMosely

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Back into paint on the 68’ Coronet. Painted last year, made it 30 days and a storm dropped a limb on the rear quarter top. Cleaned it up the best it could be addressed without paint/ body for several months and then ended up kicking the engine back to the builder for a warranty call. Took the down time to fix the quarter and this and that and well I went all the way around. Back to paint. Wet edge angles. A pillar, middle roof start, coming to the passenger, got to cut it somewhere on the C pillar to flip sides. I think I dumbed into it the first time and came down the C pillar and topped the rear quarter top before flipping. I have the hood and trunk off. On the roof flip, if you take it to the driver door edge +, that means rear quarter, trunk gutter with package tray panel, rear, then next quarter and top. That comeback edge now at the passenger C pillar has me troubled as to much time for a clean wet edge. The rest is easy, I just can’t seem to walk myself thru the roof. I see why the General Lee guys put on the fake vinyl top trim at that panel, clean break line.
 
Are you trying to blend the clear? You won’t get away with it on a charger sail panel
 
You can blend any clear although the smaller the area the better.
You turn your gun down, fluid and pressure. For a test shoot a bit of thinner into the air make sure you have a good pattern and are atomized. 1.6 or smaller tip.
Use some blender we use ppg840 see if you can beg a little from a body shop.
A one gallon can will last years even in a production shop.
Scuff the area to blend with 1200 to 1500 grit, your entire area needs to be wiped with a grease and wax remover. Roof masked off down to your sail, I allways run 12" paper along the edge of my plastic. At the blend area pull the tape up so you do not have a line, let it float aprox 1/2 off the sail.
You 1st coat of clear stop well away from your blend but cross over you base. Depending on how many coats you need to stay off the blend till the final coat, little over spray won't hurt.
After that last coat that you drag onto the blend area. Reset your gun or have another at hand. Just a dab of blender in a clean cup, pop the trigger once to load the gun.
Here ya go , little more pass speed with the pattern crossing from that last coat of clear onto the original clear. Walk away. Do not recoat!!! With the blender you will sag the **** out of it.
Practice on a old fender ect before hand.
We blend alot, color and clear. Getting hold of some blender is the key.
Next day use a light compound 3000 ect and buff by hand. If your blend is a bit ruff you may have to scuff with 1500 1st.
 
Toyota Puts an End to Clear Coat Blending on Repair Jobs - National Assessing & Engineering

This sums it up.

To each his own. I’ve done it, gotten away with it following almost exactly the procedure in post #2. But I almost always can spot where it’s been done in the past and is a couple years old.
Do you know when that tech directive was issued? I ask because my wife had a backing accident in her 2020 RX350 pearl white Lexus about 18 months ago and we had the Lexus dealer repair it. They said they would probably blend it into a door. I’ve studied that car inside and out, in the sun, in shadows, from all angles and although I have a pretty critical eye for paint defects I can’t find any sign of a blend, tape edge or even a mismatch. I know they painted at least one door if not both from the list of gaskets and trim they replaced but it’s an impressive piece of tri-coat paint work (and insurance paid for it handsomely). I sort of doubt they blended it - maybe that directive had just come out.
 
Maybe worded poorly but this was a full repaint and looking for workflow. I ended up doing the attached chart. It worked fine with no visible dry edges.

Paint.jpg


Coronet New Paint.jpg
 
I think I misunderstood the topic of your thread. I thought you were blending in a repair.
 
Shake down went much easier the second time. She is back on the road. QQ1 with single stage Hot Rod Black on the hood.

ED9A8BF1-49C3-4081-89E7-5EF32013B7AF.jpeg


8844866B-73D5-43CA-8C7E-347D39714317.jpeg
 
Do you know when that tech directive was issued? I ask because my wife had a backing accident in her 2020 RX350 pearl white Lexus about 18 months ago and we had the Lexus dealer repair it. They said they would probably blend it into a door. I’ve studied that car inside and out, in the sun, in shadows, from all angles and although I have a pretty critical eye for paint defects I can’t find any sign of a blend, tape edge or even a mismatch. I know they painted at least one door if not both from the list of gaskets and trim they replaced but it’s an impressive piece of tri-coat paint work (and insurance paid for it handsomely). I sort of doubt they blended it - maybe that directive had just come out.
I do not. I selected that to post up because of the description and picture. Unless your dealer has a body shop, it was most likely subbed out to a contract shop. As long as the shop followed factory procedures to the T you most likely wouldn’t have a spot they “cheated” lol. Theirs a million ways to perform the job, good and bad.

I saw a vertical clear blend on a Fathom Green 69 Camaro Z28. Had my eyes all over that car, wasn’t until I tied my shoe and happened to spot it from low down. I got a chuckle out of that one.
 
Maybe worded poorly but this was a full repaint and looking for workflow. I ended up doing the attached chart. It worked fine with no visible dry edges.

View attachment 1348594

View attachment 1348595
Nice work! Jumping around to keep the wet-edge is tricky. It’s almost controlled chaos. Depends on your clear, speed of the product flashing off (drying between coats) direction or airflow and whatever else
Looks like a tent on the blacktop? Fun stuff! Some nice work comes out of what an average Joe would think is nuts
 
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