Patch panel - what next?

67SniperHockey

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Newbie here when it comes to body work. Got my patch piece cut out and slowly spot welded and grinded with 80 grit flap disc.

Those small divets - do I weld more and grind again? Or does a thin layer of bondo cover those types of imperfections? I’m assuming I need to keep welding on those small cracks and grind again until there are no imperfections?

Again new at this so just trying to learn - Thanks guys!
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Runcharger

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Better to fill them with weld. You don't want moisture coming through. Nice job so far.
 

Stanton

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If they're "holes" then they need to be welded up. If they're "divots", filler is fine.

You've done a damn nice job so far. You don't want to screw it up with that "one last weld". Sometimes "good enough" is GOOD ENOUGH !!
 

67SniperHockey

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Thanks guys for the help. Getting there! One piece at a time.

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67SniperHockey

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The style line above the wheel well is going to be tricky that’s for sure - especially for me - a first timer. But can’t learn what you don’t do. Thanks again everyone - I am sure I will have more questions.
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slimt

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Yes. Weld all those pin holes up. Best way to check if they are pin holes. Take a 4” bit of wire from the mig and see if you can poke the wire through those areas.
 

dvw

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If its a hole it needs to be filled. Pits don't matter. Grinding to far to make it pretty can make it thin causing future holes. The best advise I can give is weld SLOW. Let it cool often. Spending an hour on the weld will save hours later fixing warpage. A little weld bead or a pit will never show in the final product.
Doug
 

fbs63

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I've learned to cool with the air hose and a blow gun as I go. Eliminates warping. Also it's a good idea to sandblast any welded areas that are not ground down. IE spot welds or plug welds. The heat from the weld makes the weld rust instantly.
 

barbee6043

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Nice work. And make it just as nice as YOU require it to be!
Every time YOu accomplish some body/paint work, there should be the sound of a cash register in your head going "Ca-ching!!!!!"
 

67SniperHockey

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Thanks everyone - really appreciate it! It definitely is an intimidating task but there wasn't a choice once I cut the pieces out - forced learning.

When finished welding and grinding, do I put a sealer on? What brand? Then epoxy before bondo? Suggestions on what brand/kind of filler to use?
 
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barbee6043

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Thanks everyone - really appreciate it! It definitely is an intimidating task but there wasn't a choice once I cut the pieces out - forced learning.

Suggestions on what brand/kind of filler to use?
I will just say, buy the highest quality filler you can afford. Easier to sand, better finish. I use a fiberglass reinforced filler is certain instances, It tends to have waterproof properties. Hard to sand and you do not want to breath it for sure.
I have not bought any since last summer so who knows what prices are, butI say this, I rather pay say, $80 a gal. for the good stuff than $30 for the lesser stuff. BUT I am NO pro. Just a guy that has done these cars for myself the last 40 years.
Preference for filler brands is li:poke:ke preference for auto paint brands!!???
 

67SniperHockey

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Any suggestions for an epoxy to spray on the bare steel (after I clean it) before I apply filler? Ok to use an aerosol for these small patch panels such as SprayMax 2K or the Eastwood 2K Aero Epoxy Primer?

Thanks guys!
 
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RemCharger

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Nice! I'm no everyday pro, but I've had them say that epoxy direct to metal and bodywork on top of that is fine.
Looks like fun. Have you tried your wheel lip mounding as you go
 

A4GTX

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While you’re welding on the driver’s side, weld up the holes for that pentastar, on the fender. It doesn’t belong there. Good job, so far! If you leave any holes, they’ll be bubbles in a year or so. Unless you never get it wet!
 

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