Permatex on water pump

[Steven Bowers]

Last resort…..going to try water pump permatex gasket maker on my pump….hopefully 3rd time is a charm….cleaned everything up smooth to bare metal….if this pump leaks now….the demons are loose….paper gasket just never cut it…..I’ll find out tomorrow…..also bought a Hayden thermo fan clutch….first one didn’t work….trying another one …..in Florida my car is just way too hot even running 160 thermostat….had one of these years ago from year one…worked great…they don’t make the one I have from them anymore….Hayden tech man never answered my questions why it didn’t work….if this newest one still doesn’t work….I’ll just take out my thermostat as I’ve done in the past…..if my engine gets much above 185 in Florida…pre ignition begins to happen….and hard too start back up…..

 

[WileERobby]

Should not be. Is this a SB or a BB ? Water pump or pump housing ? Have you checked the surface for straightness ? Any warpage ?

 

[440 PHIXX]

It looks like hell but... I’ve never had one leak. Used RTV on many drivers.

 

[diesel_lv]

What makes you think your fan clutch is not working? A factory big block came w a 180° thermostat. It "starts" to open at 180° and is fully open at 195°. They were designed to operate just fine at 195°. It is not too hot. If you are getting detonation from a stock engine at that temp, there there are other issues, timing, carbon build-up on pistons etc... I live in AZ w typical summer temps of 115-125° and am getting no detonation from 10.5:1 compression 496" engine at 195°. Here is where factory gauge is at 196°

 

[Steven Bowers]

What makes you think your fan clutch is not working? A factory big block came w a 180° thermostat. It "starts" to open at 180° and is fully open at 195°. They were designed to operate just fine at 195°. It is not too hot. If you are getting detonation from a stock engine at that temp, there there are other issues, timing, carbon build-up on pistons etc... I live in AZ w typical summer temps of 115-125° and am getting no detonation from 10.5:1 compression 496" engine at 195°. Here is where factory gauge is at 196°View attachment 1176900 View attachment 1176900

The thermo fan is rated at 170….when my car sits in this great Florida heat….watch it go from 180- 185…..then 195….then 205….get the picture…..the clutch should easily come on by 185… it never did….just turns at engine speed which just simply doesn’t cut it….when my car is moving with the 160 thermostat it drops down to 180…..185…..

 

[diesel_lv]

The fan clutch is designed "at temp" to turn fan at engine speed and when cooler, below engine speed. There is no way for it to turn faster. Check to ensure you have the proper w/p to crank pulley ratio. Sounds like the fan clutch is doing exactly as designed.

 

[Steven Bowers]

I figure my water pump is original….this has never leaked….since taking it completely apart, cleaning and repainting….put it back together….all new gaskets….well…I leaks at the bottom bolt….not at the hole…but between the gasket and pump….anyway it may have just enough warpage to cause this to happen…I figure straight permatex should give me a great chance to cure this issue…if I was still working I’d set it up on a milling machine…indicate it up and skim cut it…..thoughts days are over…..

 

[Thrashingcows]

I never trust the straightness of the of our old motors parts and accessories. I always toss on a thin coat of RTV on any and all gasket surfaces, even with a a new cork/paper/composite gasket.

 

[Steven Bowers]

The fan clutch is designed "at temp" to turn fan at engine speed and when cooler, below engine speed. There is no way for it to turn faster. Check to ensure you have the proper w/p to crank pulley ratio. Sounds like the fan clutch is doing exactly as designed.

A thermo fan clutch Does Indeed operate at a much faster speed when the coil heats up…I know I’ve had them before….

 

[diesel_lv]

The thermo fan is rated at 170….when my car sits in this great Florida heat….watch it go from 180- 185…..then 195….then 205….get the picture…..the clutch should easily come on by 185… it never did….just turns at engine speed which just simply doesn’t cut it….when my car is moving with the 160 thermostat it drops down to 180…..185…..

My car on interstate is at 174°, 196° in stop n go traffic w a/c on in extreme heat and 222° max while sitting after a long drive. But goes down quickly once moving again. No boil over, no overheating etc. Here's the gauge at 222° still in the normal range.

 

[Steven Bowers]

The fan clutch is designed "at temp" to turn fan at engine speed and when cooler, below engine speed. There is no way for it to turn faster. Check to ensure you have the proper w/p to crank pulley ratio. Sounds like the fan clutch is doing exactly as designed.

This is a thermo fan clutch….not a non thermo

 

[diesel_lv]

A thermo fan clutch Does Indeed operate at a much faster speed when the coil heats up…I know I’ve had them before….

Ok, you know it all. It is impossible to reason w someone who is blind to see.

 

[Steven Bowers]

Ok, you know it all. It is impossible to reason w someone who is blind to see. View attachment 1176951

No I don’t know it all….apparently you think you do….

 

[blue69runner]

Live in fl. also running a 160 thermostat. Not seeing any over heating with the 383 engine. It has gotten up too 190 when driving in traffic. You need some kind of restriction in the flow of water so it gets a chance to cool in the radiator. The top neck for the water hose I bought was a chrome one. Put permatex gasket sealer on the gasket and it did not leak. You might want to coat your gasket with it.

 

[Steven Bowers]

Live in fl. also running a 160 thermostat. Not seeing any over heating with the 383 engine. It has gotten up too 190 when driving in traffic. You need some kind of restriction in the flow of water so it gets a chance to cool in the radiator. The top neck for the water hose I bought was a chrome one. Put permatex gasket sealer on the gasket and it did not leak. You might want to coat your gasket with it.

What would you recommend I do to try cooling my 383 HP down….as long as my car is moving it runs 180-185….with a 160 thermostat….sit in traffic well 200 plus in minutes…..

 

[diesel_lv]

Mr Bowers, I will try to enlighten you. A fan clutch, regardless of style allows the fan to spin slower when engine is cooler to reduce parasitic drag/hp loss. A thermo fan clutch has a spring, which when hot locks up the clutch and allows fan to spin "at" engine speed. There are "No" gears inside of it to somehow make it spin faster than the pulley it is attached to. A non-thermo clutch uses a viscous fluid to do something similar but again, does not have any gears inside to somehow make it spin faster. The only way to make it spin any faster is using a different pulley. Changing w/p to crank pulley ratio. But the fan will "Never" spin faster than the pulley.

 

[blue69runner]

After reading most post on the temp's in town that is not too high of temp. These big block's do run hotter than the small block's. You say it is hard to start when the block sit's after being hot. Try a fuel check valve at the carb. I put one on mine and it help's. Holley sell's them but got one off Amazon. Cheap enough. It can sit for several day's and pump the fuel pedal once to close the choke plate and it start's right up. Their is no check valve in our fuel pump's thus it leaks back to the tank. Hope this help's. Let the permatex sealer sit till it becomes sicky then in stall the water pump. It has direction's on the tube so fallow them and all should be good. Don't pull the thermostat you do need it in hot weather.

 

[Steven Bowers]

After reading most post on the temp's in town that is not too high of temp. These big block's do run hotter than the small block's. You say it is hard to start when the block sit's after being hot. Try a fuel check valve at the carb. I put one on mine and it help's. Holley sell's them but got one off Amazon. Cheap enough. It can sit for several day's and pump the fuel pedal once to close the choke plate and it start's right up. Their is no check valve in our fuel pump's thus it leaks back to the tank. Hope this help's. Let the permatex sealer sit till it becomes sicky then in stall the water pump. It has direction's on the tube so fallow them and all should be good. Don't pull the thermostat you do need it in hot weather.

Thanks for the input….I use to put a metal plate with a hole in it….this did seem to help some….kept the antifreeze moving ……

 

[Steven Bowers]

After reading most post on the temp's in town that is not too high of temp. These big block's do run hotter than the small block's. You say it is hard to start when the block sit's after being hot. Try a fuel check valve at the carb. I put one on mine and it help's. Holley sell's them but got one off Amazon. Cheap enough. It can sit for several day's and pump the fuel pedal once to close the choke plate and it start's right up. Their is no check valve in our fuel pump's thus it leaks back to the tank. Hope this help's. Let the permatex sealer sit till it becomes sicky then in stall the water pump. It has direction's on the tube so fallow them and all should be good. Don't pull the thermostat you do need it in hot weather.

Just informing you that this time around the permatex sealer seams to have fixed the leak….again thanks for your input….

 

[Steven Bowers]

Mr Bowers, I will try to enlighten you. A fan clutch, regardless of style allows the fan to spin slower when engine is cooler to reduce parasitic drag/hp loss. A thermo fan clutch has a spring, which when hot locks up the clutch and allows fan to spin "at" engine speed. There are "No" gears inside of it to somehow make it spin faster than the pulley it is attached to. A non-thermo clutch uses a viscous fluid to do something similar but again, does not have any gears inside to somehow make it spin faster. The only way to make it spin any faster is using a different pulley. Changing w/p to crank pulley ratio. But the fan will "Never" spin faster than the pulley.

Mr Bowers, I will try to enlighten you. A fan clutch, regardless of style allows the fan to spin slower when engine is cooler to reduce parasitic drag/hp loss. A thermo fan clutch has a spring, which when hot locks up the clutch and allows fan to spin "at" engine speed. There are "No" gears inside of it to somehow make it spin faster than the pulley it is attached to. A non-thermo clutch uses a viscous fluid to do something similar but again, does not have any gears inside to somehow make it spin faster. The only way to make it spin any faster is using a different pulley. Changing w/p to crank pulley ratio. But the fan will "Never" spin faster than the pulley.

I’ll enlighten you Diesel that today I started my Charger up ….idled and drove it around my neighborhood…came back home and let it idle some more…overall time frame easy 1/2 hour….now this time around the replacement thermal clutch fan did indeed WORK….it kept my car around 195 ….driving it came down to 180 or so…..as I stated yesterday that the one I purchased did not work because the temperature just kept rising while at idle speed….this is what I was explaining to the fellas and you gave your opinion which everyone is entitled to but your opinion was not pertaining to my issue….I know how these fan clutch operate….also the permatex sealer did it’s job on my water pump…no leaks today…..I thank all you guys for your help and suggestions in helping me on these heat issues…

Mr Bowers, I will try to enlighten you. A fan clutch, regardless of style allows the fan to spin slower when engine is cooler to reduce parasitic drag/hp loss. A thermo fan clutch has a spring, which when hot locks up the clutch and allows fan to spin "at" engine speed. There are "No" gears inside of it to somehow make it spin faster than the pulley it is attached to. A non-thermo clutch uses a viscous fluid to do something similar but again, does not have any gears inside to somehow make it spin faster. The only way to make it spin any faster is using a different pulley. Changing w/p to crank pulley ratio. But the fan will "Never" spin faster than the pulley.