hemiEssex
Active Member
This is what I am working on
65 Coronet
- stock rear drums (10 inch)
- new shoes, cylinders, harware etc. New lines front to back
- 73 Newyorker front rotors and calipers 11 inch.
- New calipers, flex lines all new brake lines
- 68 Newport manual brake master (it looked the same as the dual master that was in it when I bought the car and was readily available
- All stock Coronet pedal and rod etc.
- Dot 5 Silicone brake fluid. Everything is new so I wanted to start with it.
- Hurst Line lock plumbed into front brake circuit.
- SSBC adjustable proportioning valve on rear brake circuit
So I bled the brake with my wife helping the first time. I did not bench bleed the master but I did crack the fittings after it pumped up. I bled the rest of the system. I noticed then that the front drivers side caliper had a very frothy looking fluid but I bled it out anyway and left it for the night. The next day I thought the pedal felt spongy so I borrowed my buddys vaccum bleeder and we did it again. The brakes had a much better pedal to them and we did get lots of air out. Test drove the car, but was not overly impressed by the braking. Not the hard push but the fact that it did not stop very quickly. Tried to lock it up but if wont. Now I have left the car sit for a few days and was working on a tranny issue so I took it out again today. Brakes are spongier than before. I have checked every line and fitting, no leaks. The only thing I think I can hear is a slight air noise when pumping the brakes. Leak??, master cylinder still have air? Wrong combo of parts?? I thought I would try the manual brakes first before going out and buying a power master set up. Any ideas guys?? I need to get this solved quickly?? Anyway to test for air getting in?? Should this set up be not quite as hard?? Getting frustrated as car is ready to go as soon as interior is done.
cheers
Steve
65 Coronet
- stock rear drums (10 inch)
- new shoes, cylinders, harware etc. New lines front to back
- 73 Newyorker front rotors and calipers 11 inch.
- New calipers, flex lines all new brake lines
- 68 Newport manual brake master (it looked the same as the dual master that was in it when I bought the car and was readily available
- All stock Coronet pedal and rod etc.
- Dot 5 Silicone brake fluid. Everything is new so I wanted to start with it.
- Hurst Line lock plumbed into front brake circuit.
- SSBC adjustable proportioning valve on rear brake circuit
So I bled the brake with my wife helping the first time. I did not bench bleed the master but I did crack the fittings after it pumped up. I bled the rest of the system. I noticed then that the front drivers side caliper had a very frothy looking fluid but I bled it out anyway and left it for the night. The next day I thought the pedal felt spongy so I borrowed my buddys vaccum bleeder and we did it again. The brakes had a much better pedal to them and we did get lots of air out. Test drove the car, but was not overly impressed by the braking. Not the hard push but the fact that it did not stop very quickly. Tried to lock it up but if wont. Now I have left the car sit for a few days and was working on a tranny issue so I took it out again today. Brakes are spongier than before. I have checked every line and fitting, no leaks. The only thing I think I can hear is a slight air noise when pumping the brakes. Leak??, master cylinder still have air? Wrong combo of parts?? I thought I would try the manual brakes first before going out and buying a power master set up. Any ideas guys?? I need to get this solved quickly?? Anyway to test for air getting in?? Should this set up be not quite as hard?? Getting frustrated as car is ready to go as soon as interior is done.
cheers
Steve